LCA/Strut Rod removal question

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BullsIgt

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I am in the process of removing the strut rods and the lower control arms on my '64 dart in order to replace the bushings. I have the nuts on the end of the strut rod off and the tension bolt for the t-bar loose and have removed the horseshoe clip on the back of the bar. My next step is to remove the nut on the pivot for the LCA but when I try it feels like I'm just twisting the bushing and the pivot rod is just spinning with the nut. I don't want to keep going because I don't want to damage something I don't have to replace. Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong here? Any advice on how to get the nut loose? Should the torsion bars come out first?

Also the bushings for the strut rod were pretty much non existent and it looks as though the rod is bent pretty bad so I guess they need to be replaced? I've seen adjustable ones for 150-200 on Mancini and Dillinger chassis. Is there a cheaper alternative or should I just go ahead and bite the bullet and buy the adjustable ones?
 
If I recall, (been a few years) I just hit mine with an impact wrench... that should knock the nut loose without torquing the bushing. (sharp raps on it instead of brute force from a rachet or breaker bar on a socket)
 
LCA but when I try it feels like I'm just twisting the bushing and the pivot rod is just spinning with the nut.


As above, impact if possible. Usually you can get a pry bar up in there and put enough force on the pin to stop it from spinning. Then you can pry on the LCA and push it back some and start the T bar out

Also the bushings for the strut rod were pretty much non existent and it looks as though the rod is bent pretty bad .............. should I just go ahead and bite the bullet and buy the adjustable ones?

I donooo.... depending on how bad, I would not be afraid to straighten them, a judgement call. Might put out a want on here, too.
 
The nut on the pivot shaft, and the shaft itself, is turning because the LCA bushing rubber is totally shot, worn out, deteriorated away.
In a way that's not bad on disassembly, because all that you now have to do is pry back on the LCA, between the crossmember, and the LCA will come out, leaving the shaft in the crossmember.
Then just put a pair of vice grips on the back end of the pivot shaft, and then remove the nut.
Simple disassembly, removal.
 
Thanks for the quick response guys. I may just go ahead a get the adjustable strut rods and save myself the hassle in the future. I found these http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/dyadstba.html
and these
http://www.dillingerchassis.com/product/adjustable-strut-rods/

anyone use either of these? is there really a difference? It says I can use them with factory k frame and LCAs so is there justification for the price difference or would I be ok with the less expensive ones? Any other suggestions?
 
I don't have any experience with the adjustable ones from Mancini, but I bought a set of their steel a-body strut rods and they were at least 1/4" too short for an early a. When I contacted them, they agreed to take them back, but wouldn't refund my shipping even though it was their mistake. So it cost me about $30 to find out that they are wrong for an early a. Haven't purchased anything from them since.

These don't fit early a-bodies!
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/bostfrstkit.html
 
you don't need adjustable strut rods on a daily driver- bend your old one back-- or buy some straight used ones.
There are numerous threads on this build-- rubber v poly --etc... do some searching & plan out what type you want to use & the type of driving your car does.

Have fun & keep reading much info on this site ,Lawrence
 
Those who use the "stand back and toss them in" type poly lower arm bushings will need the adjustable strut rods. They'll serve like turnbuckles to draw the lower arm and keep it in place. If you use OEM type "press fit" lower arm bushing you could simply straighten your strut rods or buy good used from a parts donor.
 
I'd just buy a used set of stock strut rods. They're probably a dime a dozen. No need to go to adjustable rods unless it's necessary for your build.
 
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