LD4B intake 318 swap

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Calipag

Calipag

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In our 1970 Dart are swapping our slant 6 with a donor 318 AC car to a non AC. We installed an Edelbrock LD4B and we've installed it twice and both times we've had water leaking out the back. This time we have water in the oil. The first time when we had the engine on the hoist installing it water ran out the back by the distributor on the passenger side, we are now getting ready to start it as we start to turn it over water is coming out the back this time on the driver side. And we have water in the oil! Is there a trick to installing this intake? The first time the cork gasket clearly moved but this time I have no idea!

NOTE: When we bought the donor car the engine ran and there was no water in the oil.

Also, since it was an AC car and we are not using AC do I need a new alternator bracket?

InkedIMG_5135_LI.jpg
 
Yes, you are missing an alternator bracket. Unless you are doing something really wrong, I think your intake manifold is warped leading to your water leak.
 
Murray said:
Yes, you are missing an alternator bracket. Unless you are doing something really wrong, I think your intake manifold is warped leading to your water leak.
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I've seen, but can't find again, where someone had a install thread and they ran RTV around the back water ports. I did not do that and wondered if that was my mistake?
 
did you remove the dowel pins on the front and back china walls they hold intake up ? the pins that center the intake gaskets must be removed
 
teringer said:
did you remove the dowel pins on the front and back china walls they hold intake up ? the pins that center the intake gaskets?
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I did not remove the pins! I did not know that I should have. This is my first Mopar build. Please tell me that was the problem? I'm pretty defeated with this build! Seems like everything that could give me problems has!
 
Check to see if your block has locating pins in the front and back, if so remove them and re-install. If you are using fiber intake gaskets, these should seal well all by themselves. Silicone is good in front and back and in the corners.
 
Thank you all! I know we didn't remove those pins. Those are my first easy fixes of this build. I need a bracket and I need to remove the intake AGAIN and remove the pins!

I thought this slant 6 to 318 swap was only going to take me a month ! HA! I'm starting month 4! It's a father son project! We did motor, trans, rear, K member, rebuilt the front end and disc brake swap. We pulled the dash harness and engine harness and cleaned them up. I thought for sure we'd be running this weekend!
 
DONT be too shy or too proud too ask questions...BEFORE or after.
For RTV silicone, use "Right Stuff" by permatex. Felpro gaskets are very good. Follow their instructions, it mentions RTV.
Put it on exhaust studs too.
Dont feel bad, my electrical problem has me questioning my sanity for over 2 months.
Good luck.
 
Make sure everything is clean, clean, clean . Use RTV on the china walls and around water ports . Place intake STRAIGHT down , don't tip or twist it . Use a torque wrench to tighten down intake . Do not over tighten . Let RTV set up before you proceed .
 
4spdragtop said:
Yes what Scampman said about letting RTV set up and fully cure.
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I let mine set up overnight. Yes those pesky little locating pins. I bought a 408 stroker for $500 because the guy didn't take the pins out and he couldn't get it to stop leaking. It was a silicone'd mess.

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Check your intake very carefully, the pins can crack an aluminum intake.
 
As others have said, be sure this intake pins (one on each China wall) are removed. Use a dremel to grind them off if they don’t pull out easily with pliers.
 
If u have to use silicone around the water ports u have an intake that needs to be addressed. There is obviously a problem somewhere. May need to be milled to sit on the proper angle. Set it on without the gaskets and see how it lines up. Measure at the top and bottom of the ports with a feeler gauge. Kim
 
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your fortunate that you didnt crack the intake torquing it down on top of dowel pins! I cracked a 273-4bbl intake ($$) doing that. If you cant pull the pins out, just drill the intake. 408 for $500, nice grab.
 
Also, don't forget to tighten the intake bolts down in proper sequence, starting with the center-most ones and moving out alternating front and back bolts on each side

torqueseq.jpg
 
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