Leaf spring clamps

[340MPR]

Hey guys,

Looking for some advice on getting better traction and improving my 60’ at the strip. I’ve got a 69 340 4-speed dart, street/strip car. 415HP to the wheels, I have QA1 dual adjustable shocks all around, and run Mickey Thompson ET Street SS tires.

I’ve read up on clamping the front of my leaf springs and unclamping the back and want to give this a shot. I’ve got ESPO +1 springs in. Am I good to just take off the two clamps behind the axle and leave the existing two on that are in front of the axle or should I replace the front clamps with a more solid clamp? Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks, Mike N.

 

[GTX JOHN]

I do that but with HD Clamps on the front segment.
I leave one clamp on the back for safety reasons.

 

[RAT ROD AL]

This is my sons car about 15 years ago. We only pulled the rear clamps off and used a tall pinon snubber. And of coarse some good slicks.

 

[furrystump]

I’m running that spring with no rear clamps and the stock front clamps. I know people who put stouter front clamps on, but I never have. (Most are not A bodies). No one runs a pinion snubber, even a 10’s stick car big block Challenger. The advice I have is video the car launching. First look at two things. How the nose tops out and then watch the tire bulge. Is the bulge consistent? Does it go away at any point? Check your tire contact mark. Is it even all the way across. You need to be in the ballpark with your tire pressures before doing much else. A run is determined usually in the first 2-3 feet. Unless you run a power adder and REALLY pour the coals to it down track. Actually, my car is pretty oversprung with that spring.

 

[memike]

@MeMikieJr

 

[340MPR]

I’m running that spring with no rear clamps and the stock front clamps. I know people who put stouter front clamps on, but I never have. (Most are not A bodies). No one runs a pinion snubber, even a 10’s stick car big block Challenger. The advice I have is video the car launching. First look at two things. How the nose tops out and then watch the tire bulge. Is the bulge consistent? Does it go away at any point? Check your tire contact mark. Is it even all the way across. You need to be in the ballpark with your tire pressures before doing much else. A run is determined usually in the first 2-3 feet. Unless you run a power adder and REALLY pour the coals to it down track. Actually, my car is pretty oversprung with that spring.

Hey thanks for the reply. I might try how you run them for the next race, take off the back clamps and leave the factory front ones in place and see how it reacts before making up some heavy duty clamps. If that helps my launches that might be the ticket for me and it’s easy to give that a try.

Thanks, Mike N.

 

[340sFastback]

I fabbed up some leaf spring clamps in this thread:

Wheel Hop Clamping Leaf Springs

 

[MV8]

I'd add a hellwig traction overleaf to the front and remove the shortest leaf with clamps so the rate and ride height stays about the same. At the minimum setting (minimum slack in the front U bolt taken up and hand pressure can squeeze the leaf to drop slightly), the traction won't raise the back end but it increases the rate in bump. Slide as close to the front eye as will clear. If you don't like it, nothing has been modified so no cost to return to stock. The traction leafs are about $120 now.

 

[340sFastback]

I'd add a hellwig traction overleaf to the front and remove the shortest leaf with clamps so the rate and ride height stays about the same. At the minimum setting (minimum slack in the front U bolt taken up and hand pressure can squeeze the leaf to drop slightly), the traction won't raise the back end but it increases the rate in bump. Slide as close to the front eye as will clear. If you don't like it, nothing has been modified so no cost to return to stock. The traction leafs are about $120 now.

Hellwig web site list those traction leaf springs for trucks only, is that what you bought? And will it change pinion angle?

 

[MV8]

Yes, and used on an '80s swb 5.0L ranger (axle under versus over the spring) but I think they are too long to fit an A body. Needs 18.25" between the eye and the edge of the axle pad. Could instead just add a half leaf to the front.

More info: https://www.hellwigproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/product-digital-assets/135000491.pdf

 

[33IMP]

Stick shift? I'd run real slicks. And bias ones at that.

And imo, snubbers are worthless, unless you want to add useless weight.

Edit: when I still had stock springs on my 62, I made spring clamps for the front segment. But my car had so much rear lift, that the shocks topped out. When I changed to ss springs, the clamps weren't necessary.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Heavy duty stainless OTR truck hose clamps work very well. You need to clamp the springs together tightly with a C clamp FIRST and then install the hose clamps. I used to use two at each section and never had one come off. But don't try to pull the springs together with them. They will hold them clamped together just fine, but they will not draw them together. That's why you need the C clamp.

 

[jbc426]

After about 40+ years of trying to find the best solution for ride quality, traction and handling, I ended up with slapper bars with a cut front bump-stop that are properly fitted to place the bumper under the front spring eye.

The correct length Lakewood bars with cut, welded and fitted stand-offs to just clear the rearend brackets and upgraded hardware work better than Caltracs, pinion snubbers and/or nothing.

Total cost is about $100 and a few hours of fitting. Combined with Drag radials and QA1's, I've never found anything better on the street that gives both decent ride quality and amazing traction.

I use this set-up successfully on both my stick shift E-Body and automatic A-Body. I'm using ESPO +2's on the E-Body and 3200lbs driver's side SS springs on the A-Body. Both cars are close to 3750lbs.

 

[RustyRatRod]

After about 40+ years of trying to find the best solution for ride quality, traction and handling, I ended up with slapper bars with a cut front bump-stop that are properly fitted to place the bumper under the front spring eye.

The correct length Lakewood bars with cut, welded and fitted stand-offs to just clear the rearend brackets and upgraded hardware work better than Caltracs, pinion snubbers and/or nothing.

Total cost is about $100 and a few hours of fitting. Combined with Drag radials and QA1's, I've never found anything better on the street that gives both decent ride quality and amazing traction.

I use this set-up successfully on both my stick shift E-Body and automatic A-Body. I'm using ESPO +2's on the E-Body and 3200lbs driver's side SS springs on the A-Body. Both cars are close to 3750lbs.

View attachment 1716415276

View attachment 1716415277

View attachment 1716415278

I bet that works good!

 

[fishmens67]

After about 40+ years of trying to find the best solution for ride quality, traction and handling, I ended up with slapper bars with a cut front bump-stop that are properly fitted to place the bumper under the front spring eye.

The correct length Lakewood bars with cut, welded and fitted stand-offs to just clear the rearend brackets and upgraded hardware work better than Caltracs, pinion snubbers and/or nothing.

Total cost is about $100 and a few hours of fitting. Combined with Drag radials and QA1's, I've never found anything better on the street that gives both decent ride quality and amazing traction.

I use this set-up successfully on both my stick shift E-Body and automatic A-Body. I'm using ESPO +2's on the E-Body and 3200lbs driver's side SS springs on the A-Body. Both cars are close to 3750lbs.

View attachment 1716415276

View attachment 1716415277

View attachment 1716415278

Same exact setup we used in the late 70's early 80's, worked real well.
Fabricated a set my buddy had on one of his Chevies.

 

[340MPR]

Stick shift? I'd run real slicks. And bias ones at that.

And imo, snubbers are worthless, unless you want to add useless weight.

Edit: when I still had stock springs on my 62, I made spring clamps for the front segment. But my car had so much rear lift, that the shocks topped out. When I changed to ss springs, the clamps weren't necessary.

This is my third year third racing, my budget allows for one big spend every year aside and for next year I’m thinking that I’ll spring for another set of wheels and slicks. For now I’m trying to launch better with these tires.

There’s a guy that races a 4-speed falcon with the same MT tires and his 60’s are 1.65 which lets me know I’ve got room for improvement. Mind you his cars about 150HP more than mine, he’s still getting what I’d consider a good 60’ with these tires with a 4-speed.

 

[33IMP]

How fast is the falcon? Knowing his et will tell me how he's doing on drag radials.
The reason I recommend slicks, is cause a stick car seems to leave better with a little wheelspin. Drag radials work best dead-hooked. They usually require backing off of the throttle if they spin too hard.

 

[33IMP]

Furry stump is an excellent racer, very fast, and GTX John is legendary. You can not go wrong following eithers' advice!

 

[340MPR]

How fast is the falcon? Knowing his et will tell me how he's doing on drag radials.
The reason I recommend slicks, is cause a stick car seems to leave better with a little wheelspin. Drag radials work best dead-hooked. They usually require backing off of the throttle if they spin too hard.

I chatted with that driver at this past weekend’s race. His best on the ET Street SS’s was a 1.72 60’ and 7.44 @ 90mph in the 1/8th. He said that he was generously weighing down his trunk, spun off the line and feathered till they hooked. He switched over to the ET Street R Bias tires and says that he would never go back.

I can’t say that I really noticed much difference with my back spring clamps off, I’m guessing that because I spin off the line so the suspension isn’t hitting that hard? My best 60’ I managed this weekend was 1.978 and that was spinning off the line. My tires are close to being spent, I’m leaning towards springing for a pair of slicks for the next race.

 

[33IMP]

I chatted with that driver at this past weekend’s race. His best on the ET Street SS’s was a 1.72 60’ and 7.44 @ 90mph in the 1/8th. He said that he was generously weighing down his trunk, spun off the line and feathered till they hooked. He switched over to the ET Street R Bias tires and says that he would never go back.

I can’t say that I really noticed much difference with my back spring clamps off, I’m guessing that because I spin off the line so the suspension isn’t hitting that hard? My best 60’ I managed this weekend was 1.978 and that was spinning off the line. My tires are close to being spent, I’m leaning towards springing for a pair of slicks for the next race.

That's a pretty good 60 and ET for the falcon, at only 90 mph. I'd be curious to know how much quicker he was on the bias than the radial.
You might get by as a street/strip deal with ET Street bias tires, and still be able to use em on the street, something you shouldn't do with real slicks.
(I have heard of bias et streets being (slightly) faster than true slicks (on an automatic car) because of the stiffer sidewalls.)

 

[furrystump]

Stick cars are just flat out hard to be consistent with. Especially with a non-slipper clutch. Your foot IS the converter. You might watch the crazy dudes that run Southeast Gasser class. All sticks, none dead hook. They MUST lift the tire by the rules, run a ton of gear and ride the wheel speed on out. 1/8 mile but if I had any money………..

 

[stroked340]

On my duster I removed the rear clamps and added them to the front segment put a pair of Summit drag shocks on it with a pinion snubber my street car 60' in the low 1.40's

 

[B3422w5]

I am the odd man out I guess with leafs.
Had 002/003 leafs on my W5 stroker, no changes with clamps, no snubber, used 28 by 10 dot bias slicks( Hoosier QTP’s car would hook on ice and print time slips.1.34 60 foot and heavy car. No snubber.
I played with clamps, but car never worked better than with no changes from stock. A body cars work so darn well with the rear overhang.

 

[340MPR]

I am the odd man out I guess with leafs.
Had 002/003 leafs on my W5 stroker, no changes with clamps, no snubber, used 28 by 10 dot bias slicks( Hoosier QTP’s car would hook on ice and print time slips.1.34 60 foot and heavy car. No snubber.
I played with clamps, but car never worked better than with no changes from stock. A body cars work so darn well with the ET street R bias ply tires come in limited sizes and I won’t be able to fit them.

I am the odd man out I guess with leafs.
Had 002/003 leafs on my W5 stroker, no changes with clamps, no snubber, used 28 by 10 dot bias slicks( Hoosier QTP’s car would hook on ice and print time slips.1.34 60 foot and heavy car. No snubber.
I played with clamps, but car never worked better than with no changes from stock. A body cars work so darn well with the rear overhang.

Looking at the MT ET street R bias tires they’re available in limited sizes and I won’t be able to fit them in my dart. I’m leaning towards trying Hoosier quick time pro’s and hoping to have similar results to you.

Am I right to think that my launch RPM would come down going from my ET street SS tires to the Hoosier QTP’s because they’ll have better traction?