leaking brake line fitting

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rigger3006

rigger3006

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installing new front calipers on front of 72 duster and my lines (new) keep leaking at the fitting, am i missing something or do i need to reflare the lines? one sides ok with the original line but driver side keeps leaking out of fitting with new line
 
Did you "double flare" it? Did it look nice and straight? There really isn't much to go wrong, unless for some reason you are running out of thread before it's actually tight.
 
Try loosening and retighten a few times. Sometimes a new flare needs to kind of crush to its seating surface.
 
Chk threads on the fitting, and as Gdrill mentioned, did you dbl flare? Not being a smartass, but chk youtube for flaring videos. I did and some good points in videos I never knew and have been flaring my own lines when needed for over 30 years.
Or the new caliper threads could be bitched.
 
lines were bought readymade to fit, already flared, im thinking gdrill may be onto something about running out of thread, damn
 
I bet they are stainless reproduction lines, right?

If they are, I had the same problem as the flares are very hard and do not conform easily.

Are they Fine Lines or the Right Stuff?
 
I had problems with my pre-made lines leaking so after some research I got on Amazon and searched copper flare gaskets. I got a variety of sizes for my brake lines. They sealed all the annoying leaks.
 
markfh said:
I had problems with my pre-made lines leaking so after some research I got on Amazon and searched copper flare gaskets. I got a variety of sizes for my brake lines. They sealed all the annoying leaks.
Click to expand...

Do you recall what sizes and where they were fitted? I've got a similar problem with the front single piston calipers on the Demon. (It has a Mopar sourced BBP disk brake system.)
 
yep, i can wiggle the line, yep fine lines reproduction, copper flare gaskets sound like what i need, thanks guys
 
I had the same problem with Fine Lines Stainless Steel lines and I contacted them.

They had a procedure to help seal the flairs using Permatex Thread Sealant With Teflon on the threads and between the line and fitting being careful not to get any sealant on the flare, and it fixed the problem for good.

The problem with stainless steel is it doesn't confirm to the tapered brass fitting like mild steel does, so the sealant helps with the weeping brake fluid.

Trust me, it worked on all of my lines brake lines that were weeping.

If you don't believe me give them a call.
 
2 Darts said:
Do you recall what sizes and where they were fitted? I've got a similar problem with the front single piston calipers on the Demon. (It has a Mopar sourced BBP disk brake system.)
Click to expand...

I got 1/4, 3/16, and 3/8. If I remember correctly the fittings on the wheel cylinders was 1/4 and the other sizes were on the front proportioning valve.
 
Stainless cracks easier when flared than regular steel/copper lines also.


Just something to not overlook just in case it helps.
 
just ordered washers, hope they show up before the snow flies! the joy of living in the great white north
 
I can say after reading this thread I have decided that I will continue to build my own lines and avoid the stainless pre-bent kits. Good luck with the washers, hope it's the fix and you get to run the car again before the skating rink spreads.
 
teflon and thread sealer on brakes? No thank you. Copper washers seem a stretch too but whatever. Id almost think reaming the SS brake lines at the fitting would help, trying to get the right angle...? are you using a flare wrench? you can get them pretty darn tight with one, and round the nut easily without one.
 
no flare wrench, i live in butthole, nowhere!population 3000, closest auto store 120 kms away and i work 6 days a week, right now fabo and ebay are my tools. fitting is tight against caliper, flare isnt hitting bottom for a seal
 
rigger3006 said:
no flare wrench, i live in butthole, nowhere!population 3000, closest auto store 120 kms away and i work 6 days a week, right now fabo and ebay are my tools. fitting is tight against caliper, flare isnt hitting bottom for a seal
Click to expand...

Rigger, are you talking about the banjo bolt and crush washers where the hose attaches to the caliper? If so, calipers banjo bolts require two copper washers. Place one washer on the banjo bolt, put bolt through the hose and place other washer on the side of the hose where it mounts to the caliper. See pic.
 

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Those copper flare washers will work. In aerospace, we often use the same "Voishon washers" on a leaking flare (single AN flare, stainless) and works even at the 8000 psi we sometimes run. They are very thin copper that fits perfectly over the flare.
 
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