Learn me on rear ends

[Plik]

I'm looking at doing a big block swap on my 72 slant 6 duster. I have access to ether a 440 or 383 both with 727 trans. I'll need a rear end to go along with my new setup. From what I've gathered a 8-3/4" is the way to go, question is what do i look for along the lines of a donor car/truck? What Chrysler models have a 8-3/4" axle which is interchangeable with the duster. Is there any specific tags/stampings I should be looking for on the housing? How are these rear ends identifiable?

Cheers,

Plik

 

[Burntorange70]

I'm looking at doing a big block swap on my 72 slant 6 duster. I have access to ether a 440 or 383 both with 727 trans. I'll need a rear end to go along with my new setup. From what I've gathered a 8-3/4" is the way to go, question is what do i look for along the lines of a donor car/truck? What Chrysler models have a 8-3/4" axle which is interchangeable with the duster. Is there any specific tags/stampings I should be looking for on the housing? How are these rear ends identifiable?

Cheers,

Plik

Here is an ID chart for you.

 

[Badart]

Here is a pic with a drain plug someone added.

 

[Brad4406]

Plik,

A lot of it depends on how much you want to spend. I personally like to keep as much money in my pocket as possible so I went with a 68-70 B-body 8 3/4 when I built my 75 Dart Sport. There are a lot of them still around, they are already big bolt pattern, and they are narrow enough to go under an A-body without much work other than relocation of the spring perches.

Some people are going to tell you to get an A-body one, or get one out of a truck or station wagon and have it cut down, to put aftermarket axles in either. While these are both good options, the 68-70 B-body is much cheaper.

 

[fishy68]

Plik,

A lot of it depends on how much you want to spend. I personally like to keep as much money in my pocket as possible so I went with a 68-70 B-body 8 3/4 when I built my 75 Dart Sport. There are a lot of them still around, they are already big bolt pattern, and they are narrow enough to go under an A-body without much work other than relocation of the spring perches.

Some people are going to tell you to get an A-body one, or get one out of a truck or station wagon and have it cut down, to put aftermarket axles in either. While these are both good options, the 68-70 B-body is much cheaper.

I thought it was the older 65-67 B-body rearends that were about the same width as a A-body rear. Correct me if I'm wrong. How wide is the 68-70 B-body rear drum to drum? I agree with everything else you said. Just not clear on the year B-body rear.

 

[SGBARRACUDA]

65-67 are the best fit on an A body but are only about a 1/2" narrower than the 68-70. Also if you are installing later Disc fronts on your car, That set up is wider than the earlier model so the wider 65-67 or 68-70 has a better look/fit IMO.

 

[SGBARRACUDA]

A-body 8 3/4 is 57 1/8" drum to drum
B-body 65-67 is 59 1/2"
B-body 68-70 is 60 1/8"

 

[Plik]

Thanks for the Info guys.

 

[Blownfish]

The A-Body 8 3/4 with a set of Moser axles is the best choice if you don't want to have a housing or axles modified.

Another option is a 9" Ford out of a 57-59 Ford Fairlane, it is 1/2" narrower than the original A-Body rear end and it is a bolt in for the A-Body. The spring perches are in the correct spot, you can use your original brake cables and 9" parts are readily available. The only modification is you need to use a different u-joint which is available at any reputable drive shaft place.