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Dizzydean

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all of a sudden my dome and instrument lights are not working. Headlights and associated outside lights are all good as are all fuses. Possiblely headlight switch? Appreciate the help
 
I doubt it's the headlight switch because you have two separate sets of light off.
(Especially if the dome doesn't come on when the doors open)

Your dome light should always have 12v to it, and grounding that circuit (the yellow wire on most) makes it come on.
Check your interior light socket for power if the interior light doesn't come on.
(betcha it doesn't have power there.)

More likely an acc circuit has lost it's connection and you may need to backtrack from the fuse to find it.

This is on a Boeing 777 right? :D
 
This is on a Boeing 777 right? :D

No, a DC 10!

No,a A-10 Warthog

I bet it's a 10-E

125604099.rztBXRH5.jpg
 
What "they" are trynna tell ya is we need to know what it is that you are working on. Do the park and tail lights work?
 
My bad its a 67 Dart not sure if the engine matters but its the /. All outside lights work but nothing inside, no dome light with either or both doors open and wont come on with the headlight switch turned left or right I forget plus the dash light are out also. I think this car is cursed.
 
Ok if the tail light circuit works, that circuit is actually where the headlight switch "gets" power for the dash lights. Power goes through the switch to the dimmer control, OUT the dimmer control on TAN, and down to the small "inst" fuse which is all the way to one end of the fuse panel.

So with the lights in park or head, turn the dimmer all the way to left before the dome switch clicks.

Then probe the INST fuse and see if you have power on both sides of it. If you don't, trouble is up there in the headlight switch. "Wiggle" the dimmer control back and forth as they get dirty and develop "bad" spots. If that does not work, you likely have a bad dimmer control on the switch. HL switches are not expensive, and are available at "real" parts stores.

The dimmer is a different matter. Sometimes the door switches get crudded up. The headlight switch MUST be grounded to operate the dome switch on there. Access one of the switches, like the drivers door, and see if you have 12V from the switch to ground. Try grounding that wire.

If no power, pull the dome bulb and probe both contacts for power.

If you don't have a factory shop manual, download one, free, over at MyMopar:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

Also from MyMopar is ONLY the wiring diagrams but which are out of the shop manual........this saves you from pawing through a bunch of pages

mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67_Dart_Charger_Wiring_Full.pdf



And there are AFTERmarket wiring diagrams. These are sometimes easier to follow than factory but they are often incomplete and often leave out some terminals and connectors

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67DartA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67DartB.jpg
 
Thanks 67. I'm going to play this weekend. Should of kept my book. This car had been sitting for about 20 years in a garage, just finished replacing everything from the tank to the carb just to get it running. Set a record Monday-drove 4 blocks when a plug wire came off & it started running very rough. I thought it was having flashbacks. Good thing this cars my keeper cause I love the challenge. Ill post after I check the electrical issue, thanks again.
 
I have had the same problem that I just finished fixing yesterday. Today I will put the car back together.

My dome light worked on the headlight switch and the passenger door but not my door. I hade to get creative to get this working. When I got this working the alarm that goes on when the lights are on and the door opens, also started working. This fix was my own circuit and does not show in the published schematics.
If anyone else have this problem, let me know and I will tell you what I did. I will not post it here as I think this may be specific to my car.


Last time I rewired the entire car, I did not follow the wire colors religiously. The last week, while trying to fix the last little gremlins, I pulled out a bunch of perfectly good wires and replaced them with the correct colored wires.
This made it much easier to follow the schematics I have.
 
First a positive note. 67 model didn't have delay timers and such to complicate the circuit. Dome lamp wire is hot at all times all the way to the fixture overhead. Then through the bulb and on the switches where the ground occurs.
There is a harness connector at left inner wheel well where they may have spliced/added a trunk lamp harness. A short at that trunk lamp can blow a dome fuse quick. For me the problem always came from fishing rods or similar junk in the trunk.
I took the trunk lamp out of the harness until a better fixture with a lens was installed.
 
No power to the instr fuse. Tried the turning and wiggling but nothing. Narrowed the dome light to a burnt bulb. Everything should be so easy. Also found 2 different drums on the back but that's for another forum. On a side note I did replace the fuel and temp gauge to the blown ivr and when I put it back in a pin on the drivers side came out. Apparently it was for the turn signal sockets inside-all four plus the fender mounts outside are good, could that cause any issue? Is there a harness or a way to make the 2 instr plugs a little longer, what a pain. I have another board for that side but I hate to break another pin. Thanks for all the help so far, appreciate it.
 
If you have no power to the fuse, and the tail / parking lights work, it's either the dimmer control bad, or right in the HL switch. Sometimes you can "jerry rig" repair those dimmers, HL switches are not that expensive.

"Pin on the driver side?" You talking about a connector pin for the cluster board? There are ways to repair them, if that's it.
 
Let me guess which pin, very top of the 3 on that left smaller board. Best method I have seen to move that connection away was by soldering 3 wires about 10 inches long directly to that board and using a basic trailer light male/female connector.
 
Thanks for all the help. Red what an easy fix, I couldn't tell you which pin came out the cluster is still in. I tried a little solder on the drivers side pins. Looks like it worked for 4 of them :glasses7: I'm going to play a little more later today. 67 thanks I will get a new switch tomorrow and see how it goes. You guys are great :prayer:
 
There are various old posts on here about repairing those boards. Try to give me a bump and I'll find one or two. I'm downloading a 4.x gb file (ISO) so things are a bit slow here, for intensive graphics
 
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