Manual or automatic
Line Lock with Drum Brakes ?
- Thread starter 1969GTS340
- Start date
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Automatic with 4200 converter
Since you have an extra foot.
How about put the line lock in the rear line. Turn it on with no brake pedal pressure before you do your burn out.
Left foot the brake pedal, only front brakes will be on.
Do your burnout.
Turn it off, and stage
How about put the line lock in the rear line. Turn it on with no brake pedal pressure before you do your burn out.
Left foot the brake pedal, only front brakes will be on.
Do your burnout.
Turn it off, and stage
Interesting idea.
The few line locks I had would allow pressure to keep going through but not back, so you could pump them up. So if the pedal is pushed it would lock the back ones up. Maybe the new ones are different?
My assumption is they are a valve.
If they have a one-way feature install it backwards.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
They work like a check valve. You can apply the brakes (when normally installed) whether it is energized or not. When energized and the brake pedal released, it hold pressure
Installing it backwards would be dangerous, as "I think" energizing the valve and applying the brakes would stop that line from seeing pressure
Line locs were used on drum brake cars years before disc brakes became standard equipment. I ran a line loc on my 64 Dart 273 car with drum brakes. As mentioned, check the shoes for correct postion, check the contact area, rebleed the lines and loosen up the rear brakes just a click or two so the fronts will hold.
That's the point, no pressure to the rear brakes while burn out.
Off is safe on is no rear brakes
I think that's the point of this post. OP does not want to use foot breaking and burn up his rear brakes.
Killer6 was noting that when he foot brakes it he can do the burnout so the ability of the fronts to hold the car is not in question.
And yes he is applying 4 brakes but he is only using 2 to hold the car because he is overpowering the rears during the burnout.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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cough, cough, is the valve gettin' power and ground?
I hadda ask ........
I hadda ask ........
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
EDIT Sorry Dana, for some reason my brain was thinking "staged and launch" instead of burnout. Ignore the below..........
You missed the point. He was trying to claim that if it works foot braking, and not with the line loc, that there is nothing wrong with the brakes. But foot braking, he has four brakes. It proves nothing. Foot braking BOTH FRONT AND REAR brakes are active. Of course they hold better.
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Hey guys, thank you for all the suggested root causes. I haven't had time to look at the car yet this week, but I should have things checked out by Weds evening.
I will add, that when the car was off the ground. I tested the line lock and it was holding the front brakes. However, I was only trying to spin the wheels by hand. I'm leaning towards checking to make sure the shoes are installed correctly, bleeding and adjusting.
Nice to hear that drum brakes are able to hold the car with a line lock. Swapping over to disc's is not currently feezible on this budget car.
I will add, that when the car was off the ground. I tested the line lock and it was holding the front brakes. However, I was only trying to spin the wheels by hand. I'm leaning towards checking to make sure the shoes are installed correctly, bleeding and adjusting.
Nice to hear that drum brakes are able to hold the car with a line lock. Swapping over to disc's is not currently feezible on this budget car.
Frank Mopar
Well-Known Member
Disc brakes would make it worse. Although they stop better they don’t hold better.
What works for me is hitting the switch and pumping hard.
3forty
"Raw Power"
Put your foot on the brake pedal,start the burnout with your foot still on the pedal. Push the button,remove your foot from the pedal. The car will hold it's position. I have all brake drums on my car.It works for me.
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Unless it's a bootleg rear doing a one-wheel-wonder burnout, the rear wheels are both spinning & driving the car forward, it ain't the brakes.
I’ll add to that, HOW is he doing his burnout? slooowly turning tires or like I do, smack the gas pedal hard, 1-4500 2-4500 3-4500 once smokeing good release lock and ease out under power. Let off gas stop back in first move forward under slight power to set spragg. Go to pre-stage line, no dicking around
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
You are right, for some reason I was thinking "staged" as in holding the car
Frank Mopar
Well-Known Member
Ceedawg said it. You have to smash the gas and get tire spinning.
I prefer 2nd gear to start and shift to3rd.
I prefer 2nd gear to start and shift to3rd.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Agree, though I never start a burnout in first gear with a 727. Manual valve body, start in second, smack it hard, shift into third. Back off throttle before the tires hook.
Edit: Frank Mopar tree'd me.
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