List of Best Street Performance Camshafts for "340-360"

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69 Cuda 440

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Selected as 'one' of the Better Street Performance Camshafts for a '340 ~ 360'

Type..................... Lunati
Series................... Bracket Master #10200443
Cost...................... $121
Price Range.......... Good

Type...................... Hydraulic
Lift........................ .480"
Duration................. 292*
Duration @ .050".... 230*
LSA......................... 109*

Power Band............ Broad Range
RPM Range............. 2000 to 5500
Idle......................... Lopey {Plus}
Performance........... Good Low-End and Mid-Range Torque and Power

Recommended for Moderate-to-Mild Street Performance Cars

Minimum 9.0-1 Compression and a proper set of Cylinder Heads
with a Competition Valve Job

Works well with 3.55 Gears, Headers or High-Quality Exhaust System.

An Aluminum High-Rise Intake Manifold and performance Carburetor compliment this Camshaft.
 
I think every cam company on the planet ground a 480"@230* cam...lol. I have to admit, i used quite a few in several different brand cars back in the day. Some slight differences in timing across the board, but they all acted about the same imo. With headers, a streetable intake, 4 bbl, and something better then a listed 8.5/1 comp, they all pulled hard in the mid range and sounded decent. Probably the most basic street grind ever made. Can you do better?.....Oh yea. :D
 
Would you be offended,if we posted some of ours,69? No whizz wars needed.
 
I wouldn't touch that cam to cut it up for fishing weights!

Is your post a question or opinion or give your opinion?
 
Would you be offended,if we posted some of ours,69? No whizz wars needed.

A-Body, please do,,,,,

It's an information thread, all Camshaft recommendations are welcomed.

Sticking to 340 and 360 'Only'.

General Street Performance Camshafts, with 'Price Cost'.
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Unfortunately 'Rumble-Fish' doesn't 'get-the-gist' of the Thread Title'.

A summarizing technique that can be used in any content area.
 
Crower 31916. Called the Ultra Beast. Specs:269/282,223/[email protected]. Lift .480/494,lobe centers 112. Catalog description: "Upper mid range to top end power,Emphasis on top end" Laughingly listed,at 2000-4800 range,the 6200 plus red line more realistic. Owned/ built / seen 4 a bodies,run from 13.0's to 12.2's on spray. The kicker,3 passed Cali smog inspection tests.(100p.p.m./ 1.0 C.O.). Just a neat grind.
 
I'll eventually get round to building a 390 ( 318 stroker)....I'm using a hyd. flat tappet cam from Hughes Engines....a Whiplash cam, with 1.6:1 rocker gear, and about 10:1 CR......800 Holley, with an Eddy Torker II 340 intake, with Eddy RPM heads......I may have to make headers for it.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...ZW5naW5lcw==&level1=Q2Ftc2hhZnQ=&partid=21851

The car isn't going to be a daily driver......been told to expect 400 to 450hp at the fly........see what happens.
 
A-Body, please do,,,,,

It's an information thread, all Camshaft recommendations are welcomed.

Sticking to 340 and 360 'Only'.

General Street Performance Camshafts, with 'Price Cost'.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Unfortunately 'Rumble-Fish' doesn't 'get-the-gist' of the Thread Title'.

A summarizing technique that can be used in any content area.

And this is why I asked........

The question is very general. Giving an opinion on what camshaft to use as best without any idea of the rest of the cars specs or equipment is t really helpful to those seeking help.

Knowing all the peramiters would really be helpful. Also the exact engine, trans, tire and gear in what model car is what I think as the most basic info to start with and finish up with equipment being used. Finish it up with a percentage of street strip use. 90 street- 10 strip, 50/50 etc...

I don't see a one cam fit all here. I would consider this thread with its lack of info/peramiters irresponsible and more of a problem causing thread.
 
Rumble-Man,

If you can't come up with a 'good' general performance Camshaft
for a 'Street-Driven' 340 or 360, say so.

Most 'general' Street Performance Cars are running,
* 3.55 Gears
* Headers
* Aluminum Intake {'old' Dual-Plane or Street Performer}
* 650 CFM Carburetor
* 9.5 Compression Ratio Pistons
* 'J' or 'X' Cylinder Heads
* #3200 lb. A-Body

Type....................... Mopar Performance
Series..................... 'Purple Shaft' #312-P4120231AE
Cost....................... $192 {W/Lifters}
Price Range............ Good-to-Moderate

Type....................... Hydraulic
Lift........................ .484"
Duration................. 284*
Duration @ .050".... 241*
Centerline............... 108*

Power Band........... Broad Range with an emphasis on Higher RPM's
RPM Range............ 2800 - 6200
Idle....................... Lopey {Moderate}
Performance......... Good Mid-Range Torque and Top-End Power

The 'Main Stay', and original Mopar Street Performance Camshaft.

Back in 1969, Mopar would recommend this Camshaft {w/Matching Lifters}, an
Edelbrock LD-340, a Holley #4160 Series {735 CFM or 780 CFM} Carburetor
and Headers as an "Add 50 Horsepower Kit" for a 340.
 
Oh I can. I jus refuse to suggest a cam based on what you think most street cars are running as per what you wrote. It leaves to much to assume to start with. It is still irresponsible IMO to suggest a cam to someone in such a broad spectrum of possible parts and other variables.

You say street driven? Then in your opinion, What would be a max cam size to run. For the KISS sake, the cam is a Hyd flat tappet.
 
Ok, lets all agree to disagree about individuals views as what a "Standard" street car setup is.

Now then, Lets all shift into 3rd and keep this thread going.

Let's reword the question shall we, Its a simple "lets hear your setup and opinion for a street-driven A-body with a 340-360. Include Cam specs, drivetrain setup and opinions of the overall-ride. As 1 cam might be better in auto vs. manual car....etc etc......Bring your knowledge to the table state your pros and cons and be constructive...


Is that acceptable?

Nothing more...nothing less....Nice and Simple
 
Mr. Rumble-Man,

Now that's a good question.

Personal experience. This is as far as I would go on the street, as I have used
this 'Bumpstick' with great results in a 1969 Barracuda 340 'Automatic' with
3.91 Gears, Cyclone Headers, an old B & M Holeshot Converter, 'stock' Intake
and 'stock' Carter AVS {625 CFM} Carburetor.

The 'stock' 340 Engine was refreshed with 'Speed-Pro' Rings, on the 'factory stock' 10.5-1 Pistons .

Compu-Cam 'Xtreme Energy' 'XE284H'

Cost.......................... $130

Lift.......................... .507"/.510"
Duration................... 284*/296*
Duration @ .050"....... 240*/246*
Lobe Separation......... 110*
Center-Line............... 106*

RPM Range................... 2300 to 6500
Peak Horsepower........... 5700
Optimum Torque Range.. 3500 to 5500

The Goal,

To get a nice 1969 Barracuda 340 to run 'strong' as well as being able to run on the 'street'
without too much 'high maintenance' and not going overboard on 'performance parts'.

It ran 13.60's @ 103 MPH at Lebanon Valley {upstate New York}, and everyone was 'Happy'.
 
Ok, lets all agree to disagree about individuals views as what a "Standard" street car setup is.

That's my whole point. What one thinks as streetable another one sees it as mondane or completely over the top like a ProStreet car.

One of my friends (for example) drives a tunnel rammed stroker 400 w/4.88 gears and a over drive. A final feel ratio of 3.36 w/28 inch tires. Gear ratio X's OD ratio) He drives it every where. Is this low 10 second car to much for sepeople or are others bored with this performance level?

He assumed street means a certain something.
 
OK, 'Rod or Rumble',

The thread is titled.......... 'Street Performance'

I think you're smart enough to know what that means.......

Not 'Pro Street' or 'Radical Street'

And a Camshaft that has a 'friendly' Price Range.
 
so "street" would be lo and midrange torque?
there go the hi lift long duration pieces.
 
I like the 284/528 mechanical if going with a mopar cam. It'll rip the nuts off the 284 or 292 hyd amshafts

This thread could easily circle the drain.
 
I like the 284/528 mechanical if going with a mopar cam. It'll rip the nuts off the 284 or 292 hyd amshafts

This thread could easily circle the drain.

Is that 'Camshaft' user friendly.....

'Tic, Tic, Tic, Tic'

That doesn't seem 'Mild-to-Moderate'.

That seems to be a 'Mid-Radical Street Cam'.
 
It's not noisy if you lash it tight and it will idle at 750-850 rpm in a 340 with 12-13" of vacuum.

It's no worse than some of the smaller hyd cams. I think the cam is rather mild.

That's where this thread will circle the drain.
 
The 528 is very docile indeed. Almost idles smooth.

Here's one of my favorites for a stock or slightly above compression 340/360 with stock heads.

Crane 693802

Lifter - hyd. flat tappet

Lift - Int. .467 Ex. .494

Adv. Dur. 278 290

@ .050" 222 234

LSA 114
 
It's not noisy if you lash it tight and it will idle at 750-850 rpm in a 340 with 12-13" of vacuum.

It's no worse than some of the smaller hyd cams. I think the cam is rather mild.

That's where this thread will circle the drain.

Is that in a 4-Speed or Automatic.

Mopar Performance #P312-P4120653AE

* Mechanical Camshaft
* 528" Lift
* 284* Duration
* 241* Duration @ .050"
* 112* Center-Line

* RPM Range...... 2900 to 6900 RPM's

A} You have to change the Rocker Assembly
B} Push-Rods
B} You have to change the Valve-Springs and Retainers
C} Then, possible Valve-to-Piston Clearance

That doesn't sound like a 'mild-to-moderate' Street Performance Camshaft,
to boost performance at a 'relatively mild cost' does it.

You know, this is an information thread, not a 'Down the Drain Thread' Mr. Plumber.
 
The original 28899206 340 automatic cam and the 28899205 340 manual cam. Both will help the engines run mid to high 13s with good tires and 3.55 gears with stock manifolds and stock carburetors if all is set correctly. Plus, both will let the engine idle and run like a scalded dog from off idle to 6500 rpm. Just like they were engineered to do. :):)
Tom
 
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