Lockup converter question

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Charrlie_S

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1988 trans (904) is the converter lockup control, pressure apply-spring release, or spring apply-pressure release. Strickly hydraulic control, not electric. Thanks
 
1988 trans (904) is the converter lockup control, pressure apply-spring release, or spring apply-pressure release. Strickly hydraulic control, not electric. Thanks
Hi Charrlie_S,
First of all just wanted to say thanks for always sharing your knowledge on A/C and slant6 engines with all of us on FABO. Always enjoy reading your posts on those subject areas. Concerning your question on lockup’s... I have a 1983 A998 hydraulic lockup in my 318 1973 Dart Swinger and it works great, mine’s just a cruiser. Chrysler started using RH (hydraulic) lockup’s in 1978 and continued until 1985....in 1986 changeover was made to RE (electronic lockup’s). There’s a great article at allpar.com concerning lockup’s history. Hope this helps...thanks again for all your help to everyone.
Take Care,
Greg
 
Hi Charrlie_S,
First of all just wanted to say thanks for always sharing your knowledge on A/C and slant6 engines with all of us on FABO. Always enjoy reading your posts on those subject areas. Concerning your question on lockup’s... I have a 1983 A998 hydraulic lockup in my 318 1973 Dart Swinger and it works great, mine’s just a cruiser. Chrysler started using RH (hydraulic) lockup’s in 1978 and continued until 1985....in 1986 changeover was made to RE (electronic lockup’s). There’s a great article at allpar.com concerning lockup’s history. Hope this helps...thanks again for all your help to everyone.
Take Care,
Greg
I have no problem sharing what I know. That is how we all learn. I will check out the artical on Alpar. I have heard differing statements on the lockup function.
Just an FYI, my trans is a 88 Diplomat 318 small trans (not sure if 904 or 998) with lockup. It is the hydraulic control, not electric. There is no electric connection on the trans for that. Been awhile since I looked under the car, but I think there is a wire in the area that should be for lockup connection (but not sure). This is how the car came from the factory, as I purchased new in 1988, and the trans is original. I am getting a "shudder" at about 45 MPH (at lock up) if I am in the throttle, a little. Also if I get in the throttle hard while in lockup, I get a shudder. I am trying to determine, if the problem might be just the converter (spring apply- pressure release) or possibly the trans (pressure apply- spring release) due to low fluid pressure. Pretty sure the converter clutch is going to need replacement either way, but just a one day job, or trans work also, which will take longer.
PS: It is definately a converter problem, not engine related.
PPS:Was lean burn, converted to HEI several years ago.
 
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I have no problem sharing what I know. That is how we all learn. I will check out the artical on Alpar. I have heard differing statements on the lockup function.
Just an FYI, my trans is a 88 Diplomat 318 small trans (not sure if 904 or 998) with lockup. It is the hydraulic control, not electric. There is no electric connection on the trans for that. Been awhile since I looked under the car, but I think there is a wire in the area that should be for lockup connection (but not sure). This is how the car came from the factory, as I purchased new in 1988, and the trans is original. I am getting a "shudder" at about 45 MPH (at lock up) if I am in the throttle, a little. Also if I get in the throttle hard while in lockup, I get a shudder. I am trying to determine, if the problem might be just the converter (spring apply- pressure release) or possibly the trans (pressure apply- spring release) due to low fluid pressure. Pretty sure the converter clutch is going to need replacement either way, but just a one day job, or trans work also, which will take longer.
PS: It is definately a converter problem, not engine related.
PPS:Was lean burn, converted to HEI several years ago.

They are normally off and hydraulically applied, so nothing you can do will stop the converter lockup slip.
 
They are normally off and hydraulically applied, so nothing you can do will stop the converter lockup slip.
Thank you. I guess I will build another trans, when I get a chance, and get a new converter. Really can't have the car down, while I rebuild the trans that is in the car. I have to assume, I might have worn parts, causing low clutch apply pressure.
I don't have a problem with rebuilding the trans, myself, as I do all my own racing TF's. Just don't have experiance with the later transmissions, so I will need to watch for the differences.
 
I have no problem sharing what I know. That is how we all learn. I will check out the artical on Alpar. I have heard differing statements on the lockup function.
Just an FYI, my trans is a 88 Diplomat 318 small trans (not sure if 904 or 998) with lockup. It is the hydraulic control, not electric. There is no electric connection on the trans for that. Been awhile since I looked under the car, but I think there is a wire in the area that should be for lockup connection (but not sure). This is how the car came from the factory, as I purchased new in 1988, and the trans is original. I am getting a "shudder" at about 45 MPH (at lock up) if I am in the throttle, a little. Also if I get in the throttle hard while in lockup, I get a shudder. I am trying to determine, if the problem might be just the converter (spring apply- pressure release) or possibly the trans (pressure apply- spring release) due to low fluid pressure. Pretty sure the converter clutch is going to need replacement either way, but just a one day job, or trans work also, which will take longer.
PS: It is definately a converter problem, not engine related.
PPS:Was lean burn, converted to HEI several years ago.

Check out the allpar.com article as it mentions the “shudder” problem and Chrysler’s fix ( different springs) for it.
Stay well,
Greg
 
I do have a 1981 318 engine with a lockup 904 transmission. Transmission went out just a few days ago. My question is, Can I put a non-lockup converter and transmission on my 318? What is the advantage of having a lockup converter if any? My car is a 1966 Dodge Dart that I restored. Thanks...
Pedro
 
I do have a 1981 318 engine with a lockup 904 transmission. Transmission went out just a few days ago. My question is, Can I put a non-lockup converter and transmission on my 318? What is the advantage of having a lockup converter if any? My car is a 1966 Dodge Dart that I restored. Thanks...
Pedro

Hi Pedro,
I am not a tranny guy by any means so I would have you ask Charrlie_S or Trailbeast or any of the other knowledgeable FABO members for their educated opinion. As far as the advantage of having a lockup tranny...when it is in lockup it basically becomes a direct drive (1:1 ratio) and this lowers the RPM’s which equates to better gas mileage. My 73 Dart is a cruiser...I have a hood tach and when it goes into lockup, I can see the RPM’s drop. I really like my lockup. Hope this info helps.
All the Best,
Greg
 
Yes you can put a non lockup in the car, as long as it is 1968 or newer. However the newer lockup trans is really better. As stated, better fuel mileage, and part throttle kick down, which you might not have in a earlier trans (depending on year).
 
There is a transmission fluid additive you might think of trying. It's by a company called Lubegard. They make a product called instant shudder fix. Over the years, I advised customers to at least try this inexpensive product to see how it works in their car. All feedback I got was positive. I also sold a whole lot of their transmission additive Part number 61910 to transmission shops. In the years that I worked in the transmission parts supply industry, I can't say I was ever in a shop that didn't have Lubegard products on their shelves. Go to their website and read up on what their products do.
 
Transman, already tried that about 6 months ago, along with a fluid exchange. Did not drop the pan or change the filter.
 
Transman, already tried that about 6 months ago, along with a fluid exchange. Did not drop the pan or change the filter.
Just a thought I had. From feedback I had it does work, but it looks like you're going to have to dig deeper.
 
Check out the allpar.com article as it mentions the “shudder” problem and Chrysler’s fix ( different springs) for it.
Stay well,
Greg

The problem I have with the "fix" is that it has already been slipping and will never hold again like it did before.
 
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