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Just installed the light weight master cylinder today. Also just ordered front and rear fiberglass bumpers. Moving ahead slowly.
 

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For what it's worth I would rather have a full bodied, complete 11 second car then a gutted out car full of lexan and fiberglass that runs high 10's... In passing in the pits I would says it's a slow race car rather then a fast street car...
 
Its still all steel and glass. If I get into the 10's with a car that was built for the street, I'm happy as hell. I still have ALL the parts to put it back if I want to. I don't have the money to build a race motor right now which is why I am taking weight out. If you're happy running 12's, more power to you. I want to go faster.
 
Ya I'm happy with 12's for my street car but our race truck is mid 10's, full bodied with a small tire.

I've never really care how fast I was going, mostly bracket raced so it really doesn't matter to me.
 
I'm bracket racing too. But every time I post my new fastest time, I'm excited as hell. Even if its only a couple hundeths. My goal right now is to get as much out of this setup as possible.
 
That's great and always should be your goal. Good luck and theres nothing wrong with being excited in your accomplishments.

I wish I had a B body, I love them...
 
Chasing that time slip is addicting, isn't it??

I can tell you from experience that a electric water pump (or drive motor for the OE pump) and an aluminum underdriven crank pulley are a solid tenth at your power level.

Speaking of water pumps: You DO have an aluminum pump and housing, right?

I'd also add light bumper brackets with the bumpers. If they're not available for your car in fiberglass or aluminum, you can "swiss cheese" the OE brackets **Note that if you're having traction issues now, I'd leave the OE bumper on the rear.

I always ask guys too when they're wanting to throw parts at it, are you 110% tuned? Spent a day testing jets, squirters, PV's, timing, startng line and shift RPM points? Tire air pressure...Front AND rear?? At least tuned it on a chassis dyno???

What's the MPH now?
 
bobtile said:
I definitely have suspension issues. I have stock leafs in back. Anyone have an opinion on caltracs Vs. ladder bar setup? Keep in mind I have a lower horsepower and heavier car. I think my goal with this car would be low to mid 10's ultimately.
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Cal tracs/springs and the CORRECT shocks.
 
800 holley, you say?? There IS A THROTTLE stop, right there with those heads.

A "true" 950 is where I'd want to be... Oh and WAAAAY cheaper than a solid roller. Sounds like you have plenty of cam to get in the 10's.

Adding a roll bar? Spend the extra coin and have one done in chrome moly, NOT mild steel.

Based on your avatar pic though, you're leaving ET on the track as the car is twisting itself up a bit.
 
bobtile said:
Wow, almost 20 lbs. right there.
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What part number did you order for that plastic reservoir master cylinder?? And what are you going to use for a brake rod?? The manual brakes have a different push rod than the power brake set up.
 
dusterdoug said:
Chasing that time slip is addicting, isn't it??

I can tell you from experience that a electric water pump (or drive motor for the OE pump) and an aluminum underdriven crank pulley are a solid tenth at your power level.

Speaking of water pumps: You DO have an aluminum pump and housing, right?

I'd also add light bumper brackets with the bumpers. If they're not available for your car in fiberglass or aluminum, you can "swiss cheese" the OE brackets **Note that if you're having traction issues now, I'd leave the OE bumper on the rear.

I always ask guys too when they're wanting to throw parts at it, are you 110% tuned? Spent a day testing jets, squirters, PV's, timing, startng line and shift RPM points? Tire air pressure...Front AND rear?? At least tuned it on a chassis dyno???

What's the MPH now?
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I think I have it tuned pretty well. Not on a dyno though. Over the past year, I've probably picked up .4-.5 just from tuning. I really have a pretty mild combo. My best MPH was 117.89. I also have glass bumpers coming and hopefully brackets too. The battery was just moved to the trunk, so that should make up for lost bumper weight.
 
318willrun said:
What part number did you order for that plastic reservoir master cylinder?? And what are you going to use for a brake rod?? The manual brakes have a different push rod than the power brake set up.
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The master is part #3360T.
I had the original brake push rod from the car that I put back in. The power setup kit that was in it came with its own rod.
 
Not sure if it was mentioned before but you can shave a good 40-50 pounds by cutting steel out of the inner bumper. Did that on mine and the outside bumper still looks factory. You can go an extra step and get aluminum bumper brackets. Be another 30-40 pounds.
 
I think I have learned more from this one thread then dozens of others threads about chassis and motors. Best of luck and thanks for bringing out all the great info!
 
Sweetjones said:
Not sure if it was mentioned before but you can shave a good 40-50 pounds by cutting steel out of the inner bumper. Did that on mine and the outside bumper still looks factory. You can go an extra step and get aluminum bumper brackets. Be another 30-40 pounds.
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Not sure what you mean by inner bumper. Can you explain?
 
dusterdoug said:
800 holley, you say?? There IS A THROTTLE stop, right there with those heads.

A "true" 950 is where I'd want to be... Oh and WAAAAY cheaper than a solid roller. Sounds like you have plenty of cam to get in the 10's.

Adding a roll bar? Spend the extra coin and have one done in chrome moly, NOT mild steel.

Based on your avatar pic though, you're leaving ET on the track as the car is twisting itself up a bit.
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You think it's twisting a bit?
 

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Sorry I don't know proper name for the "inner bumper" but when you remove the bumper there is a inner 1/4 thick steel frame BEHIND the chrome bumper. When you remove the bumper bolts the two halfs come apart.
 
Sweetjones said:
Sorry I don't know proper name for the "inner bumper" but when you remove the bumper there is a inner 1/4 thick steel frame BEHIND the chrome bumper. When you remove the bumper bolts the two halfs come apart.
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I didn't have that on mine. Maybe because it's a b-body? That's interesting.
 
Dart Sport 360 said:
For what it's worth I would rather have a full bodied, complete 11 second car then a gutted out car full of lexan and fiberglass that runs high 10's... In passing in the pits I would says it's a slow race car rather then a fast street car...
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I agree..and its so much fun beating up on race cars with a street car:D:D
 
So I haven't done much to my car over the winter. No room to work in the garage and snow and cold every week since December. I finally had a couple decent days to push it out of the garage and work on it. Because of the lack of work over the winter for me, the car is pretty much remaining stock. I took the interior out and scraped all the dynamat out. took the jute off the back of the carpet, removed the wiper motor, stereo and 8-track player. Replaced the power brake booster/master cylinder with lightweight manual unit. I also relocated the battery to the trunk. The Interior is just about all back in and got fiberglass bumpers to install. That is all I'll be doing. No cage like I originally thought or racing seats. I have come to the conclusion that I just can't afford to go any faster. I will keep the car pretty much stock and do the best that I can with that. I'm pretty sure that I took at least 100 lbs. off the car and I lost 34 lbs. myself over the winter. I'm supposed to have my first race at Island dragway this coming Saturday, but it looks like snow in the AM. That's OK because I probably won't be ready anyway.
 
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