Loose wheel studs on my Duster

[burrpenick]

Removing the 3" long racing studs and attempting to install the 1.5" stock wheel studs to my all drum brake Duster 340 . The rear axle ends and front bearing carrier are not holding the new stock studs in place. There is some thread/gear on them but evidently they were worn possibly due to the longer/non stock racing studs.
What inexpensive/simple method can the members suggest to keep these studs in place while installing my wheels.

 

[rumblefish360]

2 spot weld or more on the stud.

 

[LETSRACE]

I had the same issue , I used a locktite retainer liquid. That was last year and still holding. I will get the prod number tommorow and post.

 

[4spdragtop]

2 spot weld or more on the stud.

What rumble said!! Tack it in a couple spots

 

[burrpenick]

THANKS. The 3" studs did have one tack weld on them up front, but I tapped them out easily with just a hammer and the chunk of metal came off the bearing retainer easily with a light chisel. I can see where that would work, but I probably need to use a bit more heat than the previous repair guy did. Any suggestions on the MIG setting w/argon- that retainer is a pretty good size chunk of steel and the studs are hardened.

Hoping the rears are tighter but ROCK AUTO sent the wrong ones- way too small, the catalog stated they were for Duster 340 w/front discs and my car is all drum but the guy thought they would work.

 

[jefflock]

You might see if you could find studs with a bigger knurl size.

 

[burrpenick]

I wish, heck, I'm having trouble getting the correct stock size for the rear actually. Rock Auto sent 10 that were way too small. Trying NAPA tomrrow at 4 times the cost! ouch...............

The long ones were tack welded so I can do the same. George

 

[rumblefish360]

Weld setting for this, ummm, MAX?????

 

[burrpenick]

Yes, I decided I'll turn the MIG way up. Not being a pro, what about the wire speed. Normally I turn them both up together, but not sure here?

George

 

[LETSRACE]

I had the same issue , I used a locktite retainer liquid. That was last year and still holding. I will get the prod number tommorow and post.

For guys with out access to a welder its loctite #638 retaining compound.

 

[racerbob]

Yes, I decided I'll turn the MIG way up. Not being a pro, what about the wire speed. Normally I turn them both up together, but not sure here?

George

Not sure I would turn the welder all the way up, even on my little 220 V lincoln Weldmate 175 that is pretty high amperage for a "tack" weld.

If possible I would set up a practice piece using one of the old sutds into a piece of scrap. That way you can get you technique down before doing the real thing on your car.

Bob

 

[dusterny]

Try a couple tacks on some scrap first and just make sure you got enough wire speed so arc doesn't come up to your contact tip. Start wire speed high and back down a little at a time untill your tack looks right.

 

[cudamark]

You might see if you could find studs with a bigger knurl size.

That would be what I would do too. Drill them to size if needed and get bigger diameter studs.

 

[green1]

A mig will not weld cast iron(drum). Stick welder with high nickel rod. NAPA has the studs.

 

[toolmanmike]

You weld the stud to the axle flange on the back side. Both are steel.