What year is the block? If it is a 71-73, have it sonic tested. It could go to 4.100" which is .060" over for a 340. Sometimes the early castings are thicker.
lost a piece of piston...Stumped?
- Thread starter HOOCH
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I have to say at this point I would start over with another block. Now how the hell someone put .030 over pistons in a .060 block is beyond belief.
I guess not everybody can read a mic. lol
its got a date stamp of 1-14-67
Currently looking for a new 360 and ill just start over with the block. Its got J heads with a fair amount of porting. And i just bought a new cam kit from Delta cams. So ill just start over with the bottom end
it would have to be a 340, if stamped 1967. I thought you had a 360.
you have me all mixed up. lol
you have me all mixed up. lol
think if i can get away with punching out an even .060 over im going to that route. Cause i was told the early 71 360s had the meat to do so?
RAMM
Well-Known Member
Well this is the post everyone has been waiting for, and it's with a sad heart that I say she is toast
Bore measurements were anywhere from 4.050-4.055 at the top with a caliper, and I used a lil bore tool then measured the tool and got 4.060 in the center.
Piston measures 4.030 @ the skirt and is a KB190 here are some pics I was able to snap!
Also it's kinda hard to tell but the close up of the break it appears that the piston is slightly melted.
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Umm--How in the HELL did you not hear that? I know what a KeithBlack sounds like with .004"-.005" skirt clearance and it had VERY noticeable piston slap--sounded like a loud large displacement diesel. You had too have heard that. It definately detonated--You probably couldn't hear the spark knock because you were acclimated to hearing the skirt slap. With that being said--why not get a set of KB107's in .070" or even the 190's again in .070"--they are available and drive on. J.Rob
Well this is the post everyone has been waiting for, and it's with a sad heart that I say she is toast
Bore measurements were anywhere from 4.050-4.055 at the top with a caliper, and I used a lil bore tool then measured the tool and got 4.060 in the center.
Piston measures 4.030 @ the skirt and is a KB190 here are some pics I was able to snap!
Also it's kinda hard to tell but the close up of the break it appears that the piston is slightly melted.
Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad
Umm--How in the HELL did you not hear that? I know what a KeithBlack sounds like with .004"-.005" skirt clearance and it had VERY noticeable piston slap--sounded like a loud large displacement diesel. You had too have heard that. It definately detonated--You probably couldn't hear the spark knock because you were acclimated to hearing the skirt slap. With that being said--why not get a set of KB107's in .070" or even the 190's again in .070"--they are available and drive on. J.Rob
Well to be honest I assumed it was noisy lifters that's why I was having the lifter adjusted. And I took it to 3 different hot rod guys and they assumed pretty much the same thing.
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Inertia
Well-Known Member
Scratch those guys off your "knowledgeable" reference list...
be sure to let them know how accurate they were.. lol
MiradaMegaCab
Well-Known Member
Knock Knock........ Who's there?
Stock rod and piston from a 318 turning over 7000RPMs, with 6PSI of boost and a 150 shot of N20. The damage is from hydrolock.
Stock rod and piston from a 318 turning over 7000RPMs, with 6PSI of boost and a 150 shot of N20. The damage is from hydrolock.
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
Now that is some cool **** right there! You don't mess around.
When you say Hydrolock. Did you have a head gasket come loose and sit over night Leaking water into the cylinder? Or was it fuel running into the cylinders when the car was not running? Go to start it and Boom?
crazy 340
Well-Known Member
if its a 1971 block
have it sonic test before doing an other engine
like said earlier some could go .100 over size
that will cost you lest
kb 190 in .060 or even .070 would do the job
have it sonic test before doing an other engine
like said earlier some could go .100 over size
that will cost you lest
kb 190 in .060 or even .070 would do the job
not quite as good as this one... but close
MiradaMegaCab
Well-Known Member
To be honest, I installed the copper head gaskets without any O-rings or receiver grooves. This was done around 15 years ago. No instructions were included with the gaskets and there was no real tech forums or real internet advice back then on this subject. I simply did not know that O-rings are required with copper head gaskets.
Prior to the the hydrolock, the engine ran great and was able to maintain cooling system pressure, while staying out of boost. No antifreeze leaks overnight. But while under boost and excessive RPMs the coolant would leak from the head gaskets and also pour out the overflow tank. If I swapped back to the 1008 gaskets, I would have avoided the damage.
The hydrolock took place while driving, as stated 7000+ RPMs, 6PSI of boost and 150 shot of N20. If I cant blow it up with the blower, I will do it with the Nitrous. LOL
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
Cool, I dig stuff like this because you are doing everything that people say can not be done. The Mopar Small Block is HELLAAA stronger than what most think!
Is the rest of the engine damaged? Did it take out a cylinder wall or pound the Valves out of the heads? No big if it did you can get another running 318 from a Junk Yard and do it all over again for cheap. I would however pop off the heads & use ARP Studs along with Cometic Gaskets on the next one! I can explain more on this subject & my installation process if your interested in a PM.
not quite as good as this one... but close
Is that for real?
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