Low Buck SB Turbo Charged engine project ?

[rustytoolss]

I'm thinking of doing a "LOW BUCK" (if that's possible) small block project. I'm looking for input on what might be a good way to go. I'm open to a 318 or 360 (doubt a 340 is in the budget). An LA or Magnum (which ever is the most cost effective). I'm thinking of fuel injection/ because a carb for turbo use would cost a lot. I would probably try to get the factory electronics . Should be cheaper than a aftermarket FI system.
Would it be cheaper to start with a Magnum over an LA based engine ?
I know that this is not much to go on, but this is just in the planning stages.
As far as parts go. OEM salvage yard stuff, used, swap meets...aka cheap. Boost levels say 8-12 PSI. Something very streetable.
So if anyone can point me in the right direction, that would b great.

 

[TrailBeast]

A new quality tune for the computer is a fairly big expense unless you know someone.
IMO a 5.2 or 5.9 either one would be up to the task, and those are all over the place in runnable condition for a lot cheaper than fixing a worn out LA motor.
Both magnum motors are roller cam motors and already have EFI setup on them.
I paid 500 for a complete excellent condition 5.9 minus the computer delivered to my house.
I think that would open up your budget for use on the turbo system and controls.
While you are at it you can also get the OD trans that goes with it.

 

[pishta]

You wanna go cheap, forget EFI. Use a draw through and any old big carb you got. Some of those old Banks RV setups were crude as hell. Theory: You take any old intake and put a 2" tall box on top. Run a duct to the pressure side of the snail. Put another 3" tall box on top and run a duct to the intake of the turbo set your carb on top and plumb the hot side. The turbo will draw the intake through the carb just like a NA motor would and the carb will work as designed. the more the turbo spools, the more it draws through and the more A/F it brings in. No carb work needed. They use reed valves between the boxes so the intake sucks through the carb itself until there is pressure in the box to force the reed valves shut and isolate the boxes. Take a look at a turbo charged T/A and youll see some weird offset QJ intake and the turbo ducting.
If all this scares you , go Ford EEC-IV sourced EFI and mass air, the thing will tune itself, even turbocharged. But you can buy a Mopar turn key setup here.

 

[TrailBeast]

You wanna go cheap, forget EFI. Use a draw through and any old big carb you got. Some of those old Banks RV setups were crude as hell. Theory: You take any old intake and put a 2" tall box on top. Run a duct to the pressure side of the snail. Put another 3" tall box on top and run a duct to the intake of the turbo set your carb on top and plumb the hot side. The turbo will draw the intake through the carb just like a NA motor would and the carb will work as designed. the more the turbo spools, the more it draws through and the more A/F it brings in. No carb work needed. They use reed valves between the boxes so the intake sucks through the carb itself until there is pressure in the box to force the reed valves shut and isolate the boxes. Take a look at a turbo charged T/A and youll see some weird offset QJ intake and the turbo ducting.
If all this scares you , go Ford EEC-IV sourced EFI and mass air, the thing will tune itself, even turbocharged. But you can buy a Mopar turn key setup here.

Draw through would be a lot cheaper and just as effective, that's for sure.
I can't help thinking a kit might be better in the long run than the time and effort spent on bits and pieces at a time.