2 10ths over a road runner/ magnum cam with all being the same and it's been tested .
Myself I never used anything milder in flat tappet than a 557 or 590 type cam since the early 80's.
Low compression "build" and cruise rpm?
- Thread starter dmopar74
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Myself I never used anything milder in flat tappet than a 557 or 590 type cam since the early 80's.
filed to: do you want to sound fast or be fast
i think that you could accomplish the same thing with careful selection of an off the shelf cam and supporting cast, and with the right combo of parts and tuning would stomp guts on the dude who went with the "gotta have that chop" cam.
When you look at a low cr 7.??:1 440 power curves there very similar to a well built high cr 360 putting out above average torque (1.3+ lbs-ft per cid). So even though a low cr 440 is putting out a terrible lbs-ft per cid for a 440 it's an easy way to get the curves of a real strong $$$ 360+ engine which is beyond the average dude.
Whiplash 440
LS 107 IC 102
Duration @ .050 I 232 E 245
Lift I .518 E .518
Intake opens 14BTC ex 54.5 BBC
Closes Int 38ABC ex 10.5 ATC
LS 107 IC 102
Duration @ .050 I 232 E 245
Lift I .518 E .518
Intake opens 14BTC ex 54.5 BBC
Closes Int 38ABC ex 10.5 ATC
For idle to 5,000 rpm performance, Oregon Cam Grinders 1333. 212/218@.050, 256/258@.006, .447/.455 lift. Have it ground onto a 108 LSA (assuming power brakes aren’t in the plan) with a 104 ICL.
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Here's the mistake regarding the Whiplash and Thumpr type cams. People really believe the marketing crap that they can use stock springs and need no other mods. THEN is when all you get is idle. These type cams need everything their non marketed counterparts do. Springs, more converter, more gear. They are not immune simply because the vendor say so. How stupid does that sound?
The whiplash and thumper type cams have been proven to work. I have 2 and it isnt just for idle chop. They build cylinder pressure in engines that are needing it and wake them up very nicely. Night and day difference in low end with all other things being the same. Change valve springs to meet the cam. More converter made both nicer. Nothing radical, 2500-3000 would be plenty.
People get stuck on thinking these are only for the ilde and just a gimmick. Couldn't be further from the truth.
Now if there was going to be a complete rebuild, then build some compression and go with a more traditional cam set up and be much happier overall. If not rebuilding, it is likely the best choice for the setup.
People get stuck on thinking these are only for the ilde and just a gimmick. Couldn't be further from the truth.
Now if there was going to be a complete rebuild, then build some compression and go with a more traditional cam set up and be much happier overall. If not rebuilding, it is likely the best choice for the setup.
My recollection is Comp designed those cams for the idle. The fact that they made more power was a happy accident.
I’ll say this again. There is no way I would build an engine with low compression so I could use that cam. No way.
You use **** like that because a guy has what he has and you use it and try and make it the best you can can.
Get the compression up and a cam with correct timing and it will do everything better than that series of cam except have a rough idle.
Who would? The OP didn't say he was rebuilding the long block, I assume he is working with a used low compression 440, any cam that can maintain or build cylinder pressure and perform is a win, win.
The whiplash does both, plus it sounds good rolling up to the stop light.
I don't think you want to run into an a-body with a 440 at that stop light with a slightly warmed over low compression 360. lol
People do it every day. That’s why they sell gajillions of whiplash style cams.
I smoked enough big blocks back in the day I never worry about them.
Plus, I wouldn’t use a 360 for anything but a boat.
Oldiron440
Big blocks rule small blocks drool!
I’d pull the heads and cut them down so the combustion chamber is 80 cc this and a steel head gasket will get you a much needed point in compression. I don’t think you can get Mopar steel head gaskets anymore but Mr Gasket made them the last time I checked. Duration is a killer for the low compression so keep the cam around 225 - 230 @ 050 lift and try to get as much lift as you can.
The 440 is more than capable of making over 500 hp with 9.5 CR and iron heads if you’re willing to work on the heads by doing the pocket porting Mopar recommend and using 1.81/214” valves which I would also recommend doing as long as the heads were off.
You’re building a torque monster by the way capable of absolutely roasting tires at will. It should have 400tq down very low and pop right up to 500tq+ but that’s were compression will help.
Every 440 needs a 850 CFM carb or larger depending upon how modified it is. I’ve used the large thermal quad with success, but my go to is a race 850 Holly for a mild build.
The 440 is more than capable of making over 500 hp with 9.5 CR and iron heads if you’re willing to work on the heads by doing the pocket porting Mopar recommend and using 1.81/214” valves which I would also recommend doing as long as the heads were off.
You’re building a torque monster by the way capable of absolutely roasting tires at will. It should have 400tq down very low and pop right up to 500tq+ but that’s were compression will help.
Every 440 needs a 850 CFM carb or larger depending upon how modified it is. I’ve used the large thermal quad with success, but my go to is a race 850 Holly for a mild build.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
agreed, my 65 dart with a low compression 440 from a ramcharger was a lot of fun. only changes were fenderwell headers i made and an intake and carb. it was faster than both the handling and brakes, lol.
mind you doctors do say it's good for your heart to one thing a day that scares you, i did two.... drive to work and drive home again
..... lol
Oldiron440
Big blocks rule small blocks drool!
The thing back in the day about racing a big block anything on the street or out on the blacktop was traction and tires were balancing factor. A lot of the BB cars were traction limited and the small blocks could use it to their advantage. But as soon as someone showed up with a set of slicks on the big blocks ruled.
You can get a pair of drag radials and work on the suspension, springs, shocks etc and have a woop *** ride…
You can get a pair of drag radials and work on the suspension, springs, shocks etc and have a woop *** ride…
or that pickup sitting outside your shop. lol
If you were smart you'd put a big block in that thing.
It’s got a 318. I’d stroke that first.
As for mileage, it is also getting 13mph with a tunnel ram and 660s on top. Not bad on a 300 mile cruise each way to MITP.
BSB67
Well-Known Member
Love cam recommendation posts.
The range of recommendations is impressive. From smaller than stock to pretty large. Probably a reflection of what we’re guessing what the OP wants, as it is not clear.
My pick is in the middle. Comp magnum 270/270.
Here is why. Bigger than stock. The 50 degree overlap will idle pretty well and you can get away with a stock converter. The lobes are faster, but not stupid. It will be fine with stock rockers. It’s 110 lsa, put it in at 106 or 104.
The range of recommendations is impressive. From smaller than stock to pretty large. Probably a reflection of what we’re guessing what the OP wants, as it is not clear.
My pick is in the middle. Comp magnum 270/270.
Here is why. Bigger than stock. The 50 degree overlap will idle pretty well and you can get away with a stock converter. The lobes are faster, but not stupid. It will be fine with stock rockers. It’s 110 lsa, put it in at 106 or 104.
dmopar74
Well-Known Member
I want a cam I can throw in my stock engine, use my ch4b intake, get a carb that will work well with said engine, either 3.23 or 3.55 gears, .020 steel head gaskets, and drive anywhere I want.
Then stick with the cam in your first post, you won't be disappointed.
BSB67
Well-Known Member
Okay. No performance expectations. Run the cam it cam with.
dmopar74
Well-Known Member
Let me rephrase, I would like to maximize the stock engine for now with a cam upgrade
I couldn't have said it better. They work fine and the fact is, Crower was grinding the same type cams over 50 years ago. Big duration split favoring the exhaust with a narrow LSA. Nothing new. It works.
sub .475 lift, under 260 duration and the tightest LSA you can get sub 114, headers if you already have them, electronic ignition on a hot curve, brawler QFT 680 carb or 650 carter AVS.
you'll probably need valve springs.
Unfortunately the line between just right and too much cam can be fairly different for each individual.
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