Lower ball joint R&R on 71 duster

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Fisher

Fisher

Old Guy with a Cool car.
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Search comes up empty? any tricks or techniques for changing this. Is there a how too?
 
Assuming the car is secure on jackstands; First back off the T-bar adjuster bolt, about 10 turns(count them so you can reset to it later). Then solidly block the LCA up. Then back off the lower BJ nut maybe 3 turns or so,far enough to easily see the gap. Finally a couple of whacks,with a big hammer, to the casting at the point where the BJ pin enters the arm.When it lets go, the LCA drops down and closes the gap under the nut. An air-hammer works great. If youre not going to re-use the BJ then a pickle fork is the best tool to use.It destroys the rubber boot though, and sometimes damages the pin. Whatever you do, do not hit the BJ tapered pin. It rarely works,destroys the BJ and makes it impossible to secure the BJ in the event that you give up and want to drive it to the repair shop. It is, however extremely tempting. Good luck. -This job can be done without backing off the T-bar adjuster. Its just more dangerous.You have to contain all that force.I usually use a big floor-jack as it then doubles as the "solid blocking".And you have to jack it high enough to almost separate the chassis from the jackstand.Then you will have to insert a long bar under the UCA and put some lifting pressure on it while whacking or you will not get separation at the nut and will thus not know when it is released.Well if youre alert you can feel it, Be careful.
 
The truth is that you do NOT need to back off the torsion bar. Remove the brakes (rotors or drums) with the car supported with stands under the control arm. Unbolt the lower ball joint from the spindle. Lift the spindle/upper arm to reveal the lower joint. Remove the nut and turn it over threaded onto the joint to be flush with the end of the stud. Hit the nut/stud with a 3lb sledge once or twice...
 
ok but there are three bolt holes in the ball joint cast arm do those just unbolt, they are not sprung or under tension at all.
 
They aren't under tension if the lower control arm is resting on a jack stand and supporting the weight of the car. Separate the tie rod ends from the steering arm before you unbolt the ball joint from the spindle. Makes life a little easier...
 
When I did mine I just took all the bolts out and started whacking around the ball joints with a hammer on each side. That and heating it up a bit with a torch made them pop right out!
 
Most cars I can manage to wedge a bottle jack between the UCA and LCA. Pops the ball joint every time!
 
i got it out, you all need to know that the brake drum has to come off first.lol Now how the f88ck do you stretch the boot over the lip on the ball joint?
 
TADA... I had an old PVC electrical 1 1/4 pipe fitting that was thick on one end that slid over the boot and inside ring, i gently pounded it on. Great tool to have.
 
Job done car back on the ground. Goes in Monday for wheel alignment and a re inspection. Once it passes i am free to hot rod the car.
 
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