Lowering the Rear

[ir3333]

tx guys..i liked them but didn't use them for long. Good to get the info out there for the next guy!

 

[TheContractorDude]

View attachment 1715984751 View attachment 1715984752 I have Firm Feel with -1 drop. Wheels ar 17x8 in rear. I think they are 275/40.

Wow I love the stance!!!

 

[TheContractorDude]

Do you have the old leaf springs in attic?

Try those.

Picking leaves is tough. So many factors. If you are a little high, 1/2” to 3/4” good spacer can be added. Not so easy the other ways.

No the OEM springs are long gone

 

[TheContractorDude]

If handling is now the goal then yes, zero-arch springs are the way to go with a spring rate in the 120-140 lb/in range. That will put the car lower for sure, and will dramatically improve handling.

SS springs are too stiff for ideal handling. The A-body SS springs are in the 160 lb/in range, which makes them too stiff to run with a rear bar on a lot of cars.

Lowering blocks are fine, especially if you keep them small (under 2”). Pay attention to pinion angle changes when adding blocks. Lots of trucks run really large blocks because they have spring-under set up so blocks are lifting not lowering. Heck the late 60’s and 70’s Ford 4x4’s ran 4” blocks straight from the factory.

I read another thread where you recommended zero arch springs. I am leaning towards Eaton springs based on there quality in manufacturing and experience.

If handling is now the goal then yes, zero-arch springs are the way to go with a spring rate in the 120-140 lb/in range. That will put the car lower for sure, and will dramatically improve handling.

SS springs are too stiff for ideal handling. The A-body SS springs are in the 160 lb/in range, which makes them too stiff to run with a rear bar on a lot of cars.

Lowering blocks are fine, especially if you keep them small (under 2”). Pay attention to pinion angle changes when adding blocks. Lots of trucks run really large blocks because they have spring-under set up so blocks are lifting not lowering. Heck the late 60’s and 70’s Ford 4x4’s ran 4” blocks straight from the factory.

If handling is now the goal then yes, zero-arch springs are the way to go with a spring rate in the 120-140 lb/in range. That will put the car lower for sure, and will dramatically improve handling.

SS springs are too stiff for ideal handling. The A-body SS springs are in the 160 lb/in range, which makes them too stiff to run with a rear bar on a lot of cars.

Lowering blocks are fine, especially if you keep them small (under 2”). Pay attention to pinion angle changes when adding blocks. Lots of trucks run really large blocks because they have spring-under set up so blocks are lifting not lowering. Heck the late 60’s and 70’s Ford 4x4’s ran 4” blocks straight from the factory.

I noticed you recommended zero arch springs in another thread. I am leaning towards Eaton springs based on there quality and experience. They have a stock height HD spring with 130 rate however I am not sure if there is no arch with this spring. Also recommend to use hydraulic shocks as that was what the factory used originally. I always found the gas shocks to be too stiff and offered a hard ride. It was explained to me by Eaton that the rear springs should not travel up or down more than 1.5” and the shocks are there to dampen the kinetic energy of the spring itself. The springs never lose their initial rate even as they sag and are there to support the weight of the car mainly.

In fact the total weight of the car should be taken into consideration when choosing a spring. In my case looks are very important as well as stance. But if the car doesn’t handle right what is the point. I need both to come into play

thanks for your input!!