Make your own adjustable strut bars.

-
I

ironside

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2010
Messages
214
Reaction score
57
Location
Kalamazoo, MI
I made a set of these for my brothers dart. Though I would post some pics and kind of detailed setup, pricing etc.

They are made of 1" Moly with threaded adapters on each end. Complete they weigh about 60% of factory. I did something one these I didnt see on some others too. I welded nuts on the tube that way you can adjust it without pulling everything apart or wrecking the paint.

List of parts I used:
Cut 1" Moly tube 12" long............ $10 both sds
2- 5/8 fine thread jam nuts.......... $2
4- SAE grade 8 flat washers.......... $4
2- 1/2x2.5 grade 8 bolt/nut.......... $6
2- Link Brackets (gold).............. $18
4- Rod Ends ( 2-RH and 2 LH)......... $30
2- Aurora Heim Ends (2LH)............ $20
2- 5/8x1.5" fine grade 8 and nut..... $6
Bushing to reduce heim end to 1/2.... $8
Total................................ $104

You could change around the gold link brackets for those with 5/8 hole or do the bushing like I did, a little more room that way.

They came out pretty good and strength of no concern. The front sure moves easier vs. the factory rod setup.

strut6.jpg


In the pic below I put a 5/8 sae washer on the anvil and Spun it while I had a 4" grinder with a fiber wheel to turn down the outside to 1.125. They then fit inside the front edge of the k-member, in front of the gold link bracket. Worked great.
strut1.jpg


I drilled out a 3/4 jam nut and welded on. I drilled out a 1" std nut too. Just too big and ugly. Next set I build Ill buy the rod ends with the hex made on.
strut5.jpg


strut3.jpg


strut4.jpg


securedownload12.jpg
 
Now make some for the b and e bodies and I'll get a set from ya. Very nice job!!!!
 
Very nice. I had wondered how hard these would be to make and the hang-up for me was the k-member end. Would you mind shooting a pic of the k-member side assembled out of the k-member? Thanks.
 
Thanks.
If you look at the 2nd pic the 2 washers just to the right of the angle grinder with the washer on the anvil. Those are the two washers I "turned" down to 1-1/8 outside diameter. They then go in front of the gold bracket and reduce the k frame hole from 1-1/8 to 5/8. Then the bolt through the front.
I'll post some more detailed pics when I get a chance. Pretty easy though. I found 5/8x18 rod ends with a 1/2 ID so when I build a set for my car I'll probably use them just so it's a touch easier is all.
 
You can get them through McAmis, Bickel, Chassis Engineering. Just a generic piece.

Your bars are sweet btw. Nice work.
 
Yep that's the one. I know not very fancy, but sufficient. No side load just fore/aft like on 4 link and ladder bar rears.
 
Does that bracket have a 1/2" through hole?

You should be able to find a heim that has a 5/8 shaft thread with a 1/2 hole in the ball. No need for a shim if the bracket is 1/2" hole

Nice job on building it yourself!
 
I had the 5/8 heim on hand and spacers and stuff so I just used em'. Your right they do make a 1/2 id with the 5/8 thread and in the future I'll switch to that setup just for less pieces.

As far as making to sell I probably would. They'd be like 120-130 shipped but take me a couple days to get stuff in etc.

If I had a k member or a b/e body rod I'd figure out them too. Figure mostly same stuff probably just different length.
Thanks
 
aluminum would be good to cut even more weight and i bet you could find a 12" rod with hex end and thread very cheap... i'm going to search for one right now.
 
It is a nice looking part, but here is my problem with this concept. Since the lca travels through a fixed arc and the strut rod is now traveling through a different fixed arc how does that allow the suspension to move properly. I realize the lower friction on the heim relative to a rubber bushing makes it seem like it moves freely, but shouldn't there be some lateral movement of the strut rod? It isn't like there is a ball socket at back of the strut rod allowing the angle of the rod to change in relation to the lca. The heim joint strut rods just scare me because they look like they put a tremendous amount of stress on the k-member at the strut mount. I remember emailing eberg about this way back when these strut rods first started appearing, and my memory was him also dissapproving of solid strut rods. Maybe his opinion has changed with some good factual evidence, but I haven't seen any.
 
IMHO, aluminum tube is not a good choice for this part. None of the stock or SS guys I know will run aluminum and those guys are anally-retentive about weight.

Flame away! :)
 
McNoople,
I understand what your saying about the increased stress at the k frame. The reinforcement there on an a body is nice to help spread it out. The strut rod doesn't really experience any lateral movement that can't be allowed for in the heim or rubber bushing. The vertical movement of the LCA accounts for most of the movement with the exception of braking forward force. With vertical motion neither the solid or rubber setup is allowing the wheel to travel it's "natural" course but I'm aware of no setup that will allow this. Both factory and this mount solid to the LCA. Hopefully this is understandable in text.lol
I understand Alot of people don't like heims. I have never had an issue but do try to stay up on regular maintenance and will spend extra money on auroras any day of the week. Just too many documented fk failures for my comfort.
Aluminum would take quite a thick piece to equal the strength of the CM in the horizontal field..... now Titanium on the other hand? Hmmm.

Thanks. Just my 2cents
 
Here is a video that I have made with everything tightened down. This is with my lower control arms with urethane bushings and the suspension cycles just as designed. The pivot bolt and the mounting hole for the strut rod are all on the same plane. There is no binding at all in the intended travel of the suspension. [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMmAXI8bvNc&feature=plcp"]Tubular Lower Control Arm Travel - YouTube[/ame]
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top