Mancini transmission

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plydus340

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Bought a 727 from Mancini 8 yrs ago with a forward manual valve body, and a bolt in spraig. Was supposed to have been built by Ron Mancini. Eight years later we just installed it. First gear worked fine the 7 blocks home. Later that evening tried it, and no wouldn't go in first. This morning first was there. Thought shifter needed adjusting. Nope. Any Ideas? Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Very first thing would be to chk the fluid level.
Chk in neutral.
 
Gee, is that because the fluid doesn't pump till its in neutral? Fluid is fine.
Lets skip the obvious. I was thinking more like trash in the valve body. I got a spare manual valve body. Hate to change it out, if someone knows of something else...
:burnout:
 
Wow,it's going to be hard to find advise with the last posting made.

Sounds like you have the answer,valvebody it is.
 
Gee, is that because the fluid doesn't pump till its in neutral? Fluid is fine.
Lets skip the obvious. I was thinking more like trash in the valve body. I got a spare manual valve body. Hate to change it out, if someone knows of something else...

Sarcasm will get you no where. Anyone that answers you has no way of knowing your knowledge base. There are posters from time to time that don't know to check the level in neutral. Maybe you should have posted that info.
 
(Pan on)
Fluid level
Linkage chk
Mainline pressure test.

(Pan off)
Correct filter
rear band adjustment and servo chk
Valve body torqued

It's possible that the seals sat unused for so long that they hardened up, but it's a little odd that it engaged before and now wont.
That pump pressure test would be interesting.

One other note,
There is a big difference in not engaging at all and not shifting.
The valve body will not cause a non engagement issue,(except for lingage ) but could cause a no shift problem.
 
With trans sitting for 8 yrs....good possiblity that the lip seals on the drum have dried up...and are not sealing....just a thought
 
TrailBeast. You are not only a gentleman but a scholar. There are so many good people on this site. Dan
 
If I spent $1.2k for a trans, I'd make darn sure it works before the warranty (if any) runs out. Honestly, no sarcasm intended.
 
Maybe its time to learn how to do it yourself. I was burned like this, never again.

With that said, drop the pan and see what happens.
 
Trailbeast, that was exactly what I was looking for. Circumstances beyond my control caused the tranny to sit for 8 years. I paid a guy to fix it, and life happened. I was lucky to get my stuff back. Thank you, and please forgive my short answer. It wasn't meant to sound so bad. I will think before I post again.
 
Yes, it has 2,3, and R. We blew the back brake cylinders and a hose bleeding the brakes so I haven't got to drive the duster since my post. It really acts like the shifter isn't getting it down to first all the time. I have a confession to make. I think the o ring isn't sealing on the dipstick. it is burning fluid on the header every time the pump is pushing the fluid. I was told that might be it by the guy who put the car back together. After I wrecked the duster I got a bunch of upgrade parts (including tranny) and was having a guy fix the body, and re assemble the duster. He ended up going through a divorce and loosing his business. The duster sat in his field, and the motor and tranny in a storage building for 8 years. This duster has the old C.P.P.A, headers so to do anything you have to pull the engine and tranny. Anyway I didn't do any of this work to put it together. Really acts like the new Cheetah shifter isn't adjusted right. I know with the old B&M you had to get it right on the edge of park to get first. I was hoping the new shifter would work better. Will know more when the brakes work. Wow, didn't mean to be so long winded but wanted yall to see the whole picture.
 
What the duster (Taz) looks like now. The pic in my avitar was before the wreck July 3rd 2005.
 

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TrailBeast. You are not only a gentleman but a scholar. There are so many good people on this site. Dan

I thought we were not allowed to call each other names on here Dan. :D
Thanks



Yes, it has 2,3, and R. We blew the back brake cylinders and a hose bleeding the brakes so I haven't got to drive the duster since my post. It really acts like the shifter isn't getting it down to first all the time. I have a confession to make. I think the o ring isn't sealing on the dipstick. it is burning fluid on the header every time the pump is pushing the fluid. I was told that might be it by the guy who put the car back together. After I wrecked the duster I got a bunch of upgrade parts (including tranny) and was having a guy fix the body, and re assemble the duster. He ended up going through a divorce and loosing his business. The duster sat in his field, and the motor and tranny in a storage building for 8 years. This duster has the old C.P.P.A, headers so to do anything you have to pull the engine and tranny. Anyway I didn't do any of this work to put it together. Really acts like the new Cheetah shifter isn't adjusted right. I know with the old B&M you had to get it right on the edge of park to get first. I was hoping the new shifter would work better. Will know more when the brakes work. Wow, didn't mean to be so long winded but wanted yall to see the whole picture.

NOW things are making more sense.
It really does sound like the shifter misadjustment, now that more history came out.
It's possible that it does not have the correct lever on it also.
You can order one specific to the shifter assembly.
When I changed mine to the floor the lever that came with the shifter was shorter than the factory lever.
The shorter lever changed the geometry of the lever to match the shifter positions.
Maybe yours is not the right lever.
Try to adjust it and keep that in mind as a possiblity while you are seeing it in action.

PS Don't worry about the short answer, as we all have our frustration limits.
 
When I put the transmission in the car there was no lever on it. I used the lever that came with the Cheeta shifter. I will look at the instructions again, if we can't get it figured out I will call Mancini and ask a few questions. Here is a link to the instructions
[ame="http://www.turboaction.com/70001B%203-07.pdf"]http://www.turboaction.com/70001B%203-07.pdf[/ame]
 
I put some brake fluid in the Duster tonight and took it for a ride. The Duster ran good. Scarey good. Thanks guys!
 
okay i am going to high jack this thread and glad that it is up and running. hear is my question if the trans has been sitting for 8 years do the clutch packs dry out, not sure if i said it the right way but he put fluid in it. the reason i ask this is the disks after soaking expand so that there is a specific clearace for them to work correctly. he put fluid in and the disks soaked up trans fluid and expand so that the gears all worked correctly. I am not sure if i have said this correctly but would some one that is good with trans please shed some light on this
 
I was going to say take a pressure check but if it works now,ok,sitting that long shouldn't had nothing to do with it ,not unless it got moisture in it,shifter adjustment is very important
 
I just looked at the website. They are just listing TCI transmissions. I guess the quit rebuilding them. Ron Mancini did mine years ago.
 
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