Master cylinder

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Snake

Snake

Mopar Nut
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First off hello my fellow Mopar gear heads.i have a post on B bodies,but more options is best.ok I have power brake disks 11 inch disk and 11 rear drum.i want to go to manual disk,up front.i have been searching on line for a M/C . Doorman part number MCA 75817 any thoughts.cheers.
 
inertia said:
Lotta engines I build don't have enuff vacuum for power brakes, I go with this m/c having the smallest piston giving the best "feel and pedal" for spirited drivers.
It's a straight bolt on, you may need a pushrod as the power one is different.
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OK I do have the push rod coming from e bay also I found out I need the manual brake fire wall plate,Mancini is my next purchase, just want to get my M/C fist. You see I have the 268 comp cam, but want more cam.dont trust vacuum cans.
 
Snake said:
First off hello my fellow Mopar gear heads.i have a post on B bodies,but more options is best.ok I have power brake disks 11 inch disk and 11 rear drum.i want to go to manual disk,up front.i have been searching on line for a M/C . Doorman part number MCA 75817 any thoughts.cheers.
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A parts wanted thread is the way to go. Send mobileparts a PM. He specializes in brake and suspension parts.
 
Just a side note ..

Some cars had a larger bore master cyl because the front disk and rear drum, caliper piston and wheel cylinders were sized accordingly for the pad area and the disk diameter and the shoe size / width and drum diameter.

If others have used a particular MC with the SAME front and rear brakes and parts you have and can attest to the braking ability then I would not have any issues using their recommendation.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Just a side note ..

Some cars had a larger bore master cyl because the front disk and rear drum, caliper piston and wheel cylinders were sized accordingly for the pad area and the disk diameter and the shoe size / width and drum diameter.

If others have used a particular MC with the SAME front and rear brakes and parts you have and can attest to the braking ability then I would not have any issues using their recommendation.
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Noted.
 
That is a 1.032 bore cylinder. And the correct cylinder for manual drum disc. I ordered a 1 inch bore at our local Auto Zone. Took a while but they got two of them for me. When received they ended up being 1.032 I believe due to being bored and honed. for the pistons available. But they work fine.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
That is a 1.032 bore cylinder. And the correct cylinder for manual drum disc. I ordered a 1 inch bore at our local Auto Zone. Took a while but they got two of them for me. When received they ended up being 1.032 I believe due to being bored and honed. for the pistons available. But they work fine.
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Oldmanmopar said:
That is a 1.032 bore cylinder. And the correct cylinder for manual drum disc. I ordered a 1 inch bore at our local Auto Zone. Took a while but they got two of them for me. When received they ended up being 1.032 I believe due to being bored and honed. for the pistons available. But they work fine.
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The 1 that inertia said Mc 36406
 
The bigger piston just needs more "effort", will work fine.
The smaller piston just gives better " feel and modulation" for better pressure control, and more line pressure when needed, as spirited drivers are perhaps a little more aggressive.
 
inertia said:
The bigger piston just needs more "effort", will work fine.
The smaller piston just gives better " feel and modulation" for better pressure control, and more line pressure when needed, as spirited drivers are perhaps a little more aggressive.
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OK so the 1 you said sounds like me,going to order it.thanks bro.
 
Snake said:
OK so the 1 you said sounds like me,going to order it.thanks bro.
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If you search back, That's the common one (15/16) for direct bolt-on mentioned for many years, by a lotta knowledgeable folk, - to replace both the power and manual brake m/c .
 
Well got all the parts this week for my manual/Disk brakes,say good by to power brakes. Next is a cam change,have not pic one yet..thanks too all who help.Cheers.

20240125_141913.jpg
 
Don't the bolts go the other way around.


In this photo the metal plate is the firewall and the master cyl has been cut off its mounting flange.

And the torque is 9 ft lbs (108 in lbs) per the factory service manual.
PXL_20240125_203623473.jpg


PXL_20240125_203614494.jpg



I'm not sure you need the other parts, unless the power brake bracket that mounts under the dash is very different.

These are photos of my manual brake firewall, is yours different?

PXL_20240125_204055734.jpg


PXL_20240125_204036456.jpg


And this is a manual brake, brake pedal hanger bracket

PXL_20240125_205112150.jpg


I have never done a power to manual swap so I am sure I am ignorant of some of the details
 
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Snake said:
Wear can I get the 4 bolts that attached the master through the plate then the firewall
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Post some photos of your firewall and from the inside under the dash where the pushrod will go through.
 
The "stiffening" plate looks a lot like a B/ E body.




Screenshot_20240125-140540.png


Screenshot_20240125-140913.png


I'm not sure why you would need it?
 
Snake said:
, I am working on a B body
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I missed that part!

Now I feel a bit stupid! :rolleyes:

I thought you were working on an A body hence why I was so confused on the extra parts and bolt discussion
 
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