May have screwed up installing new cam. Need help!

[92b]

Ill explain what I did to find TDC this time around for clarity.

I used a piston stop; the kind you screw into the spark plug hole. I had to screw it in almost to the bottom to get the piston to actually hit it. But I saw videos that stated it didn't matter how much you screw it in, just don't move it after you start.

I put a piece of tape on the damper, leaving a bit of the damper exposed for when I made my final mark.

I turned the engine clockwise till I hit the stop, then made a mark on the damper at the 0 mark on the timing mark.

I then turned the engine counter clockwise till I hit the stop. I made a mark on the damper at the same 0 mark I used as the reference point.

Finally, I turned the engine till the two marks I made were exposed on the driver's side, as this was the place where I could get my tape measure in and see what the measurement was. Thats why its on the drivers side in the picture. The measurement came out to 4 inches. Half of 4 is 2. So I made a mark at 2 inches on the tape and extended it to the damper. The mark ended up being close to the factory mark, but there seems to have been a bit of slippage over time.

Hope this helps clarify things!

That sounds right. Did you do it twice to verify the first results?

 

[JohnnyD]

That sounds right. Did you do it twice to verify the first results?

Yes did it twice.

 

[4spdragtop]

Well explained. 67 on pass side is correct for that year. I would replace balancer, sorry, but it'll be very difficult and inaccurate to time.

Ill explain what I did to find TDC this time around for clarity.

I used a piston stop; the kind you screw into the spark plug hole. I had to screw it in almost to the bottom to get the piston to actually hit it. But I saw videos that stated it didn't matter how much you screw it in, just don't move it after you start.

I put a piece of tape on the damper, leaving a bit of the damper exposed for when I made my final mark.

I turned the engine clockwise till I hit the stop, then made a mark on the damper at the 0 mark on the timing mark.

I then turned the engine counter clockwise till I hit the stop. I made a mark on the damper at the same 0 mark I used as the reference point.

Finally, I turned the engine till the two marks I made were exposed on the driver's side, as this was the place where I could get my tape measure in and see what the measurement was. Thats why its on the drivers side in the picture. The measurement came out to 4 inches. Half of 4 is 2. So I made a mark at 2 inches on the tape and extended it to the damper. The mark ended up being close to the factory mark, but there seems to have been a bit of slippage over time.

Hope this helps clarify things!

 

[JohnnyD]

Well explained. 67 on pass side is correct for that year. I would replace balancer, sorry, but it'll be very difficult and inaccurate to time.

Even with the new timing mark I made? Or is this just because it could slip again and screw up my new timing mark. Im not opposed to getting a new damper. Would give me piece of mind.

 

[Dartswinger70]

so it does run then?

 

[4spdragtop]

Yes because it will slip again. Should be able to get a quality one for $150?? I put a TF on our 340. Fn heavy, 11lbs if I remember correctly. No-one that I know makes a balancer with marks on pass side. So new balancer will have to be remarked.

Even with the new timing mark I made? Or is this just because it could slip again and screw up my new timing mark. Im not opposed to getting a new damper. Would give me piece of mind.

 

[JohnnyD]

so it does run then?

Not right now. I installed the new cam 2 years ago, never fired it up, and now am going back and checking/redoing the work because I forgot a lot of what I did and want to verify I did it right. It was running before I installed the new cam, though.

 

[19DART66]

I would like to ask a few questions, on related to your timing problems but could have an answer to your no compression problem. You switched from a solid lifter cam( stock for 273) with adjustable rockers to a hydraulic lifter cam and used the the adjustable rockers, am I right at this assumption. If I am, are you using the 273 solid lifter push rods. If you are the push rod are to long and they are holding the valves open, there for no compression. When switching from solid to hydraulic lifter you need to put in a shorter pushrod. Solid lifter push rods for a 273 should be 7.5 inches long, the push rods for the hydraulic lifters with adjustable rockers are around 7.375 long.
If you switched to the stamped steal rockers and push rods for the hydraulic lifters, then every thing is good, if not get the correct cup and ball shorter shorter push rods.

 

[66fs]

The damper is probably OK. Make a mark on the front face of the damper from the outer ring to the inner hub. That way you will know if it ever moves. So you have a hydraulic cam in a 67 273? Did you replace the pushrods? The original mechanical lifter pushrods are a different length than those for a hydraulic lifter.

 

[66fs]

I would like to ask a few questions, on related to your timing problems but could have an answer to your no compression problem. You switched from a solid lifter cam( stock for 273) with adjustable rockers to a hydraulic lifter cam and used the the adjustable rockers, am I right at this assumption. If I am, are you using the 273 solid lifter push rods. If you are the push rod are to long and they are holding the valves open, there for no compression. When switching from solid to hydraulic lifter you need to put in a shorter pushrod. Solid lifter push rods for a 273 should be 7.5 inches long, the push rods for the hydraulic lifters with adjustable rockers are around 7.375 long.
If you switched to the stamped steal rockers and push rods for the hydraulic lifters, then every thing is good, if not get the correct cup and ball shorter shorter push rods.

Or put hydraulic rocker shafts, rockers, and pushrods from any LA engine. Bolt on and go.

 

[JohnnyD]

I would like to ask a few questions, on related to your timing problems but could have an answer to your no compression problem. You switched from a solid lifter cam( stock for 273) with adjustable rockers to a hydraulic lifter cam and used the the adjustable rockers, am I right at this assumption. If I am, are you using the 273 solid lifter push rods. If you are the push rod are to long and they are holding the valves open, there for no compression. When switching from solid to hydraulic lifter you need to put in a shorter pushrod. Solid lifter push rods for a 273 should be 7.5 inches long, the push rods for the hydraulic lifters with adjustable rockers are around 7.375 long.
If you switched to the stamped steal rockers and push rods for the hydraulic lifters, then every thing is good, if not get the correct cup and ball shorter shorter push rods.

Ah, I did not replace the pushrods. Ill add that to the list! Thanks for that I had not realized they were different lengths. I am using the original solid lifter rockers as well. Just wanna verify: are those ok to use?

 

[66fs]

They are, but why if you are running a hydraulic cam? Get a used hydraulic set up. It will be cheaper and no adjustment.

 

[Deltatech]

also has to be clocked correctly and can be moved which would throw off/set which direction the cap goes and #1 terminal is located.

 

[JohnnyD]

They are, but why if you are running a hydraulic cam? Get a used hydraulic set up. It will be cheaper and no adjustment.

That's a good point. And now that I think about it, I may have a set of hydraulic pushrods and rockers in the parts stash. Ill check! Will using old pushrods be ok if they aren't bent? I've always heard you're supposed to keep everything with the rockers it came off of due to wear. Or is that just lifters and cam lobes?

 

[1MeanA]

OK, so basically I need to do this in one complete rotation of the engine to save as much lube from getting wiped off the cam as possible?

No offense but I don't see you having success without finding a detailed procedure on degreeing the cam and setting pre load. I posted a good video earlier on degreeing the cam.

 

[TT5.9mag]

The adjustable rockers are perfect for use on a hydraulic lifter. Just get the right pushrod. This allows you to set the preload perfectly for each lifter instead of just bolting down the non adjustable stuff. Also, you know there are TWO TDCs right? TDC compression (the one you want) and TDC overlap (the one you don’t want). Your description of watching one rocker close and one start to open tells me you’re on TDC overlap.

 

[66fs]

Ill check! Will using old pushrods be ok if they aren't bent? I've always heard you're supposed to keep everything with the rockers it came off of due to wear. Or is that just lifters and cam lobes?

It is a nice to have. I never worried about it, and never had a problem mixing rockers and pushrods. You have to take notice on the shafts on location of the notches, the left and rights for the rockers, and check the mating surfaces of the pushrod ends and the rocker sockets. If all looks good, carefully torque the shaft assemblies down, making sure the pushrods are in their sockets of the lifters and rocker arms. That should do it.