May sound like a stupid question; but it is

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jawbone

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Purchased new idler arm for 68 Barracuda. Installed in vice but arm will not pivot on bushing. Not sure what the outcome will be once I torque it to the K member flange. No grease cert. Does it pivot on mounting bolt? Have read a number of threads on this but no resolution. One member threw his in the trash. If it's this hard, then may be worth purchasing one with bearing modification.
 
I put a moog in mine and it had slop after about 5K miles. Just changed out to the bearing style.
I'm on Summit now and Moog is the most expensive. I purchased the ProForged. Looks like good quality but I'm sure will pivot on bolt before it pivots on bushing. Advertised as sealed. Thanks for the response.
 
Purchased new idler arm for 68 Barracuda. Installed in vice but arm will not pivot on bushing. Not sure what the outcome will be once I torque it to the K member flange. No grease cert. Does it pivot on mounting bolt? Have read a number of threads on this but no resolution. One member threw his in the trash. If it's this hard, then may be worth purchasing one with bearing modification.
Heck! That's not stupid! You wanna hear stupid?

When I was working on Bazza's car I found an entire set of NIB suspension and steering components in the trunk that his brother in NZ purchased and shipped here about 10-15 years ago. Bazza never got around to installing them, and the front-end of the car was quite worn-out...

When I got to working on the idler arm I didn't know why there was a bearing kit included with all of the other parts, but no idler arm, so I ended-up putting the original idler arm back on the car. :BangHead:

The front-end if his car is considerably tighter, but the idler....well...I'll get around to it the next time I work on it.
 
Purchased new idler arm for 68 Barracuda. Installed in vice but arm will not pivot on bushing. Not sure what the outcome will be once I torque it to the K member flange. No grease cert. Does it pivot on mounting bolt? Have read a number of threads on this but no resolution. One member threw his in the trash. If it's this hard, then may be worth purchasing one with bearing modification.

It pivots on the mounting bolt. The idler arm should not turn on the bushing itself.

Problem resolved. Purchased BAC idler arm w/bearing.

This is a great piece, it was a noticeable difference in the amount of drag in the steering on my Duster. Especially when changing directions.

Just a note, you will likely need to adjust the idler arm mounting flanges in order to install this successfully. The pivot bolt torque is pretty high, the mounting flanges tend to get pinched in. I had to expand the flanges on my K to get the proper fit for the bearings. I'm sure this isn't an issue with all K's, but given how the original parts work I wouldn't be surprised if quite few of the mounts needed some tweaking.
 
It pivots on the mounting bolt. The idler arm should not turn on the bushing itself.



This is a great piece, it was a noticeable difference in the amount of drag in the steering on my Duster. Especially when changing directions.

Just a note, you will likely need to adjust the idler arm mounting flanges in order to install this successfully. The pivot bolt torque is pretty high, the mounting flanges tend to get pinched in. I had to expand the flanges on my K to get the proper fit for the bearings. I'm sure this isn't an issue with all K's, but given how the original parts work I wouldn't be surprised if quite few of the mounts needed some tweaking.
Pivots on mounting bolt. Never would have guessed it based on torque to flange. Thanks for the information. Will pass it along to a friend of mine.

Glad to here the BAC idler arm is worth the expense. The old idler I pulled out was in shambles. Have spread the mounting flanges to accommodate the ProForged unit. Hopeful this is adequate spacing for BAC idler. As always, thanks for your response and guidance. Jeff
 
The thing that infuriates me about people like Moog, and the fact that they make life-or-death determining components, and this includes brake parts (other companies), and certain fuel parts, especially hose, etc, is that THESE THINGS MATTER. It's not just that they don't last, they have failed in a way that puts lives in jeopardy.

If our DOT and NHTSA was W.A.S. this kind of thing would be stopped
 

The thing that infuriates me about people like Moog, and the fact that they make life-or-death determining components, and this includes brake parts (other companies), and certain fuel parts, especially hose, etc, is that THESE THINGS MATTER. It's not just that they don't last, they have failed in a way that puts lives in jeopardy.

If our DOT and NHTSA was W.A.S. this kind of thing would be stopped
Can't argue with you there. In my case, I must say, was very pleased with the quality of part I received. How long it would have lasted remains to be seen.
 
It pivots on the mounting bolt. The idler arm should not turn on the bushing itself.
My Moog replacement has a grease fitting in the side.......Adding grease does not make it to the bolt hole. At 65lbs, I would think that the idler tube would be squeezed between the K frame tabs. I have zero up and down movement once I install the idler and the corresponding washer on the lower side, and torque to spec. It works well.

Also....When I clamp the tube lengthwise in a vise, the unit moves on the bushing.

I am confused.....
 
My Moog replacement has a grease fitting in the side.......Adding grease does not make it to the bolt hole. At 65lbs, I would think that the idler tube would be squeezed between the K frame tabs. I have zero up and down movement once I install the idler and the corresponding washer on the lower side, and torque to spec. It works well.

Also....When I clamp the tube lengthwise in a vise, the unit moves on the bushing.

I am confused.....
You think your confused. What about me. That is contrary to what I experienced. You would think they would make them all the same. This is why I ordered unit with bearing. Enough of this.
 
Just a poor design IMO. Hopefully the bearing style will last.
Was wondering the same. Hope worth the expense. If BAC built it, bet it's a good product. Not that the ProForged unit I had wasn't made well. Was very happy with it. It's just the installation procedure is questionable. Now I know.
 
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