Mechanical oil pressure gage help.

[memike]

I ordered a new sending unit, mine has a crack in it (not leaking) but when I start it, the light goes out then comes back on in 2 to 3 seconds, It did this back this spring and I cleand the wire going to it and it worked correctly , and stayed off.
Know it just goes out for 2 to 3 seconds and then stays on..
I changed the oil today and was going to change it out, but as you see it is the wrong sending unit for my 66 model 170/6, my sending unit looks like it has never been changed and has 2 times bigger threads on it. 68.000 mile on her.
Is this where I need to put a mechanical oil pressure gage or is there another
location to install a gage at..

Thank you for the info, I hope everyone is having a great evening

 

[barbee6043]

a mechanical oil pressure gauge will have a plastic or metal tube runnin from that location to the aftermarket gauge in cockpit. the factory guauges that run off the elctrical system are known to have problems due to voltage concerning the oil gauge ( known by some as idiot light!) . some people don't like adding the mechanical gauge package but it will tell the actual oil pressure, temp reading, and voltage. most will agree it is a good thing to have, easily removed if you ever sell it to a " mopar purist!!". hope this helps.

 

[TrailBeast]

You are on the right track Mike.
You just need a different (larger thread) sender, or an adapter sleeve from the small thread to the larger, and they usually come in the guage kits but you can get them at most any hardaware store.
They are both NPT pipe thread (tapered) but I think you already knew all of this.

 

[memike]

a mechanical oil pressure gauge will have a plastic or metal tube runnin from that location to the aftermarket gauge in cockpit. the factory guauges that run off the elctrical system are known to have problems due to voltage concerning the oil gauge ( known by some as idiot light!) . some people don't like adding the mechanical gauge package but it will tell the actual oil pressure, temp reading, and voltage. most will agree it is a good thing to have, easily removed if you ever sell it to a " mopar purist!!". hope this helps.

It does make sense to me, and thank you, it bothers me to see the light stay on and I know I have good oil pressure , or did last February when I adjusted the valves, and she is sounding and running great now. I may go to a mechanical system for peace of mind. Thank you barbee6043.

You are on the right track Mike.
You just need a different (larger thread) sender, or an adapter sleeve from the small thread to the larger, and they usually come in the guage kits but you can get them at most any hardaware store.
They are both NPT pipe thread (tapered) but I think you already knew all of this.

I looked at the threads on my censer when I changed my oil, I did not think that the threads I looked at could be an adapter sleeve, I just took it for grated that the threads was just so much bigger, I will check in to this closer.
Yes I did think I could get a reducer and put that one on, But I was not going to disable my car and possibly break the one that is there.
Thank you for shedding some light on this for me TrailBeast

 

[mcnoople]

My memory from when I last added a mechanical guage to a slant(1999?) was that the oil pump outlet threads are 3/8" npt and most common pressure senders use 1/8" npt. I would not leave the electric sender off when installing a mechnical guage. How often would you look at the pressure guage? That bright red light is very useful for getting your attention and directing you to the guages. All it take to retain both is a simple hardware store pipe tee hanging off the end of the oil pump so that the sender and the mechnical guage hose can both be connected at once.

 

[TrailBeast]

How often would you look at the pressure guage? That bright red light is very useful for getting your attention and directing you to the guages. All it take to retain both is a simple hardware store pipe tee hanging off the end of the oil pump so that the sender and the mechnical guage hose can both be connected at once.

I have done this before with a different car but added a buzzer in on the idiot light wire, temp, and voltage.
This way if I lost oil pressure the first and immediate warning was the annoying buzzer, and then I could see by the mechanical what was happening.
Same with the other two.
So on that car I had the idiot light with the buzzer and a mechanical guage for all three warnings. (Oil, temp, and alternator)
Daytime, if the light came on and I didn't see it the buzzer would go off for immediate warning.
It did kind of suck that all three buzzers would buzz from the time you turned the key on until the car was running, so I added switches so I could turn all the buzzers off till the car was running.

Overkilled the hell out of that huh?
It was something to do just for the fun of it.

 

[memike]

My memory from when I last added a mechanical guage to a slant(1999?) was that the oil pump outlet threads are 3/8" npt and most common pressure senders use 1/8" npt. I would not leave the electric sender off when installing a mechnical guage. How often would you look at the pressure guage? That bright red light is very useful for getting your attention and directing you to the guages. All it take to retain both is a simple hardware store pipe tee hanging off the end of the oil pump so that the sender and the mechnical guage hose can both be connected at once.

I was hoppeing to keep the idiot light and looks like it is possable, this is why I asked is there any other place to add a mechanical gage, I did not know I could do a T and have the best of both worlds

I have done this before with a different car but added a buzzer in on the idiot light wire, temp, and voltage.
This way if I lost oil pressure the first and immediate warning was the annoying buzzer, and then I could see by the mechanical what was happening.
Same with the other two.
So on that car I had the idiot light with the buzzer and a mechanical guage for all three warnings. (Oil, temp, and alternator)
Daytime, if the light came on and I didn't see it the buzzer would go off for immediate warning.
It did kind of suck that all three buzzers would buzz from the time you turned the key on until the car was running, so I added switches so I could turn all the buzzers off till the car was running.

Overkilled the hell out of that huh?
It was something to do just for the fun of it.

Overkilled the hell out of that huh?
It was something to do just for the fun of it. Good one I don't think a buzzer is in my future TrailBeast, Looks like a trip to ACE Hardware and do a T to keep my light and a gage, Thank you all for your well appreciated help :cheers:

 

[inkjunkie]

Would take a bit of digging thru the parts books at NAPA but you should be able to find a sending unit that is set to come on at a more useful low psi. Have never understood the oil light coming on when you are at a dangerously low pressure. By then it is usually to late. If it were to come on at say 5psi over what the factory one is set for it very well might make the difference between a locked up paper weight and a still running motor....

 

[memike]

Would take a bit of digging thru the parts books at NAPA but you should be able to find a sending unit that is set to come on at a more useful low psi. Have never understood the oil light coming on when you are at a dangerously low pressure. By then it is usually to late. If it were to come on at say 5psi over what the factory one is set for it very well might make the difference between a locked up paper weight and a still running motor....

Thus the mechanical gage Ink, I had the valve cover off and it is squirting oil in my face if I got to close to it, if I put my thumb on a rocker on #3 it hits me on the sholders, She is oiling fine and this old sending unit is cracked and 47 years old , Not leaking, I looked it over real close when I changed the oil before my redemption day at the track :burnout:

 

[TrailBeast]

Don't forget to make sure you have teflon tape.

 

[memike]

Don't forget to make sure you have teflon tape.

Hanging on the peg board by my electrical tape, I also have liquid Teflon I my use, or not, I need to see the heat range :glasses7:

 

[mcnoople]

Would take a bit of digging thru the parts books at NAPA but you should be able to find a sending unit that is set to come on at a more useful low psi. Have never understood the oil light coming on when you are at a dangerously low pressure. By then it is usually to late. If it were to come on at say 5psi over what the factory one is set for it very well might make the difference between a locked up paper weight and a still running motor....

The factory unit is set to 4 psi. It is not uncommon for a hot slow idle (550 rpm) slant to flicker the factory idiot light at idle. It would be very very common for the light to be on if the sender required twice as much pressure.

Just be happy that it is not the fake oil pressure guage that ford uses. Many of their guage are actually just idiot lights that swing to the middle of the guage anytime there is more than minimum pressure.

 

[barbee6043]

i have used the tee before for both setups come to think of it ( as ya get older, thinkin is more of a chore!??). years ago i took company truck to goodyear for oil changed,nest day, sat., i loaded up TA motor to take to Nashville from N Missouri to good friend, ( all day trip). long story short. they forgot to make sure the rubber o ring didn't stick to engine when they put on new oil filter! oil light came on 30 mi from N ville, when i stopped and checked it out,( Half hour later), it was OUT of oil! leased truck, it went another 75,000 mi no problem! maybe, had it been MY vehickle it would have roasted!??? LOL, and don't say ya can't kill a /6, i've seen dead ones!

 

[memike]

Well I just realized when I changed my oil filter the filter was empty, so this leads me to think the relief valve is stuck and needs to be removed and cleaned and from what I have been reading this morning this will make my oil light come on.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=149910&highlight=slant+oil+pump+install

Thank you slantsixdan

 

[memike]

Here I go, Well not today :glasses7:.. Is there anything I need to know when I pull the pressure spring out to make sure it is not broken or stuck ? any surprises when I do this. As you can see in this thread when I changed the oil the filter was indeed empty.
I ordered the correct sending unit and it is waiting for me to drive in town and pick it up.
I could not make myself buy the plastic oil pressure line. I have everything to keep my light and have a mechanical oil pressure gauge .

 

[vitamindart]

I am not a fan of the plastic line either. plastic line will not pass tech inspection at some tracks.

 

[memike]

I am not a fan of the plastic line either. plastic line will not pass tech inspection at some tracks.

:thumblef: I did not think of that, but know that you mention it :thumblef:
Yes, I want to be able to run at Memphis Motor Sports park and get me a 1/4 mile time slip one day. :glasses7:

 

[barbee6043]

:thumblef: I did not think of that, but know that you mention it :thumblef:
Yes, I want to be able to run at Memphis Motor Sports park and get me a 1/4 mile time slip one day. :glasses7:

I tried to use the tee fittin but didn't have room the screw in. my light started comin on at slowin down to 20 or so, added gauge and lowest it reads at hot idle is 15 psi, shows 45 psi goning down the road at 45-55 . oil filter was less than half full but wouldn't this sorta NORMAL SINCE IT SITS VERTICAL??? ( who hit the caps??) HUH!??

 

[Oldmanmopar]

The copper will eventually crack from vibration. Ty-gon will not. Try to leave slack at the motor with the copper. This will let it move without a fracture for awhile. I used pre-made braided lines on all the race cars and trucks. I may have a used one here somewhere I will look . What is your approximate length ?

 

[memike]

I tried to use the tee fittin but didn't have room the screw in. my light started comin on at slowin down to 20 or so, added gauge and lowest it reads at hot idle is 15 psi, shows 45 psi goning down the road at 45-55 . oil filter was less than half full but wouldn't this sorta NORMAL SINCE IT SITS VERTICAL??? ( who hit the caps??) HUH!??

I was under the impression that the pressure spring suppose to hold oil in the filter, so if I can get to it I am going to do an inspection of it, and see if it is stuck for some reason, my head and oil is clean and slick with zero build up.

The copper will eventually crack from vibration. Ty-gon will not. Try to leave slack at the motor with the copper. This will let it move without a fracture for awhile. I used pre-made braided lines on all the race cars and trucks. I may have a used one here somewhere I will look . What is your approximate length ?

I have 6 feet of tubing Oldmanmopar, I was going to do a couple 3 inch 180 degree turns in it like brake lines are dun, but I may do a next size up copper sleeve where it comes out of the first fitting at the oil pump fitting to keep it from moving at that compression fitting, The oil light comes on when I turn the key on, when I start it it turns off right away, then 3 to 4 seconds later it comes back on like it is low oil pressure, I am sure it is getting good pressure because it is not running hot or making any noise, and when I had my valve cover off it was pumping out everywhere real clean and strong on top. But I am hoping to get out there today and get this dun :coffee2:

 

[Oldmanmopar]

My dad had this problen years back with a 71 /6 duster . I beleive he found a crack in the pickup at the threads. I remember he got it fixed. I naven't played with the slants much. But my dad loved them.

He had two 62 plymouth one push button and one 3 on the tree. They wre his baby's. the stick car was a 2 dr sedan.

I remember him racing my grand pops new 70 nova 307 auto and beating him. But my grandpop never went over 55 and it was a sin to spin the tires. And that is how he raced also.

Good luck with the oil issue. I have a busy plate but if I come across a braided hose I will need your address. It is the only way to be safe with a interior gauge . You can see they are used on my Duster. I steel them at no cost from the kid he he gets them for nothing from the race shop.. All the hoses on my duster were donated from his suppliers for his racers.

 

[memike]

My dad had this problen years back with a 71 /6 duster . I beleive he found a crack in the pickup at the threads. I remember he got it fixed. I naven't played with the slants much. But my dad loved them.

He had two 62 plymouth one push button and one 3 on the tree. They wre his baby's. the stick car was a 2 dr sedan.

I remember him racing my grand pops new 70 nova 307 auto and beating him. But my grandpop never went over 55 and it was a sin to spin the tires. And that is how he raced also.

Good luck with the oil issue. I have a busy plate but if I come across a braided hose I will need your address. It is the only way to be safe with a interior gauge . You can see they are used on my Duster. I steel them at no cost from the kid he he gets them for nothing from the race shop.. All the hoses on my duster were donated from his suppliers for his racers.

For the time being I am going to put the new electric oil presser sender on and block off the mechanical port with a plug I have for the brass T and hope it is the old sending unit :thumblef:
Thank you and all the members that has jumped in on this and cross my fingers it is just the old sending unit :thumblef:

 

[sireland67]

Mike,
I bet it is just the sending unit.
I had one on my old 99 Grand Cherokee that shut the motor off.
Let it cool down drove home.
Put a new sending unit in with a "T" and a mechanical gauge.
Worked fine.
A few years later my dad was driving the Jeep and called me to say hey they oil pressure is reading 80 psi, I asked what the mechanical gauge said, he replied 40 psi.
Changed the electrical sensor again.

 

[74Dusted]

If you find/discover that you don't have room to install the sender on the tee in the original location, you could always do like I did with my '84 D50.

Back when it had a turbo diesel, I didn't have enough space to fit a Tee, Electric Sender & Line (For mechanical gauge), it hit the motor mount. So I ran an Oil Line from the engine to the fenderwell and mounted the tee to the fenderwell, where the Sender & line for the mechanical gauge were attached.

I got the idea from my dad, who had done the same thing on an '87 D50 Plow Truck. (only he used copper line, I used the plastic line on my D50 because I was a cheap teenager at the time).