Milodon Pick-up tube

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joeboy

joeboy

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I am waiting, not so patiently I might add, for my pan and sump...

In pics I have seen it looks like the pick-up tube has a secondary mounting tab that gets bolted somewhere else besides just to the pump itself (maincap maybe) I know some people have installed them, am I gonna need anything special?

JOE
 
Joe, your gonna need a special main cap bolt if you have the car motor, if you have a truck, then you don't need anything....
 
Thanks Tin,

I need a truck maincap bolt then?

thanks again

JOE
 
Any idea where one might be able to acquire a single truck main bolt? A part number might work well too. I called the dealer before about just replacement main bolts for my engine and they didn't have a listing, said I may have to get new caps to get the bolts, so a straight part number to tell them would be nice. Also, can you modify the stock car windage tray to make the pickup work or would I need to look into getting a truck tray too? This silly engine is really starting to nickel and dime me to death, getting kind of frustrating learning all the problems no one has mentioned before.
 
Looks like its 06506333AA not 100% sure but looks like it.
 
Map63Vette said:
Any idea where one might be able to acquire a single truck main bolt? A part number might work well too. I called the dealer before about just replacement main bolts for my engine and they didn't have a listing, said I may have to get new caps to get the bolts, so a straight part number to tell them would be nice. Also, can you modify the stock car windage tray to make the pickup work or would I need to look into getting a truck tray too? This silly engine is really starting to nickel and dime me to death, getting kind of frustrating learning all the problems no one has mentioned before.
Click to expand...

I know it get's a little frustrating at times, but most all these problems have been mentioned before, maybe you were not paying attention. I had the same problem with the main bolt and the great guy's on here jumped in and hooked me up with the part number ( just like GDemon did ). If you had read through my build you would have seen it. It's not fair to blame the guy's who are trying to help you, because you didn't do your homework. So just relax, take a deep breath, and carry on one problem at a time, you'll get it done. Besides, if it was easy, everyone would be doing it...:book:


"The main stud for the oil screen is 6506333aa. the corresponding nut is 6502756. Hope this helps." You can thank cptn60.
 
I know, I'm not blaming anyone, it just seems like it's always something with my car anymore. The car was put together from what looks to be probably 3 other cars to start with. The engine I bought looks to have some more problems than I originally saw as well. I wanted a truck motor to begin with, but found a car one at the right price. I tried reading through about everything I can find, you just lose it all and forget where everything is. My dealer is just pretty useless when it comes to looking up parts. Last time I called I'm not sure the guy even knew what a connecting rod was when I was asking about bolts for them...
 
it's part of the dna of aparts guy these days. whether they work at napa autozone a dealer ect... its your falt they are there. and your bothering them. take it for what it is
 
One trick I learned was I went on Ebay and found a 2005 Ram 1500 2wd with a Hemi and I coppied the last 8 digits of the vin number. So when I have to call the dealer for something, they always need these numbers otherwise they can't find anything. It works!
 
I worked in the parts biz for many years, up until the introduction of the computers and this was when you had to use catalogs. Now days, if they can't find it in the computer, it doesn't exist. I know there are some parts people out there that will take exception to this, and you are not the people to which I am referring. A prime example I had just recently was, in West Palm Beach we were changing the third member in an 8 3/4 at the race track. We sent someone into town and they went to Advanced, O'Reilly, and CarQuest. These folks could not find a gasket for the third member in their computers. Our guy finally found a combination car wash, feed store, hardware store, parts store. He asked for the gasket, and they were able to look it up and supply it. The electronics age has made a lot of people lazy and they are not willing to go the extra mile to help a customer.


RANT OVER!!!
 
Gdemon & Tin,

thanks guys, I dont think there is a question you guys haven't answered for me...

BTW, thanks for the # too.

JOE
 
I wasnt sure if it may help in the future for someone, but here are pics of the new stud, pick-up, OE gasket, and pan. Swapping the bolt was easy, BODEN posted all the torque specs in the "refreshing the 5.7 hemi" thread

I used a truck 5.7 gasket, the "car" gasket is different, it doesnt have the correct holes for the rear of the pan. I initally drilled them out, but decided I didnt wanna risk a leak, and ordered the truck gasket.
 

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Can you elaborate on what exactly you mean by the right holes? Maybe a picture or two to go along with it? I have the car windage tray/gasket and wondered if I might run in to any more issues. Is it something specific to the Milodon pan or something more general?
 
Map63,

use the 2nd pic in my last post as a reference... (gasket/windage) The milodon pan uses the truck bolt pattern/layout.

The last bolt hole at the very rear corner of the gasket does not exist on the car gasket, the ribbing/seal on the gasket is the same in the area, so you would just have to drill a hole on both sides.

The car gasket/pan use the larger (structural) holes just to the outside of the missing one to secure the back corners of the pan, (compare your gasket with the PIC, and it will have extra tabs/holes there).

The one you have can be used, just drill the holes and cut off the tabs, I just decided to switch to the truck gasket because I thought there might be other differences in the gasket ribbing/seal around those rear holes.

Hope that helps,

JOE
 
Okay, I think I may see what you mean. I need to get my gasket out and look it over good to get a better idea. Thanks for the tip, one more thing to put on the list, lol. Do you know offhand if the Weldtech pan is the for car or truck setup? I managed to get one pretty cheap on Ebay, so I was going with that one.
 
Map63,

from what I have seen of pans, (look through Tincups Thread he tried a couple) they are mostly based on the truck pan... or at least looked like it... It will work with the gasket you got, dig it out and line it up, you will see what I mean.

If I have one thing working on cars, especially when you deviate from stock, is that there are always more steps than advertised... These swaps are the same... But I am sure the Result will be worth the trouble.

JOE
 
Yeah, the engine is getting closer and closer to looking like something I could drop in sitting in my garage. Looking forward to hearing it light up one of these days. My pan should hopefully be in within a few days, so I'll get a chance to line everything up and see what needs to be done. My piston rings aren't even shipping till mid next week, so I have more than enough time to burn before I can do any more assembly.
 
joeboy said:
I wasnt sure if it may help in the future for someone, but here are pics of the new stud, pick-up, OE gasket, and pan. Swapping the bolt was easy, BODEN posted all the torque specs in the "refreshing the 5.7 hemi" thread

I used a truck 5.7 gasket, the "car" gasket is different, it doesnt have the correct holes for the rear of the pan. I initally drilled them out, but decided I didnt wanna risk a leak, and ordered the truck gasket.
Click to expand...

I wish I would have thought of using the truck gasket. I used the car and it was a PIA, the pickup tube actually hit the windage tray, so I hade to cut a little clearance. My advice would be to use the truck gasket, it will make life easier.
 
I have the Weldtech pan on my truck engine. One thing to be aware of is that the earlier versions of the Weldtech pan require notching the pinch weld on the k-frame for clearance. They changed their design a little to correct this. If you look at the pics on their website http://www.weldtechstainless.com/wtstainless_004.htm the pan on the engine at the top has an angle section on the right front corner. The other pictures are their first design without the angle.
 
Yeah, I think the picture of it on the auction showed the notched corner. I remember seeing that on the Milodon, so it caught my eye. The guy mentioned too that apparently some people were having some clearance issues with steering linkage. I didn't know if it was a pre-73 post-73 thing with the centerlink change or something else. I have to swap over to manual steering anyway and have a 73 K frame to put in, so I can do whichever setup. What are you guys running? Does one seem to have any more clearance than the other?
 
I have a hybrid. I bought my mounts before tti started making spool style mounts. I have a 72 K frame that I spliced the lower half of a 73 K frame onto to retain being able to have the swaybar mount through it. I'm using 73 linkage and a flaming river manual box. I think my only clearance issues are with the tti headers being really close to my pitman arm, idler arm, and steering box.
 
I dont have mine in yet, I have heard issues of hitting center link & Kmember with various Pans. ALso read about Steering box, column, or headers with the motor and mounts in general, (not just the pan)depending on your K-member... Sadly Ma mopar didnt make them all exact, or some have gotten "tweaked" over the years.

I have made a few .25in plates the same size as the motor mounts from a plate I had, Drilled holes, painted them up... So if I get tight, I can "shift" the motor a bit. Schumacher sells plates for this exact job in a RB/BB swap, however, it was cheaper to make my own.

just something to keep in mind.

JOE
 
Which mount style have you got? I was looking around and it seems like technically speaking there shouldn't be any clearance differences between the 72 and 73 style steering setups since the center link drop got smaller and that offsets the idler and pitman arm changes. I have the spool style mounts, so I didn't know if there was any way to really move the engine around if I needed a little more clearance here or there. I figured I may be able to mess with the tranny mount though and shim it up some if the engine is sitting a little low on the back, but I'll have to wait and see when I get it in.

The good news is that the new k member I am going to put in is out of the car, so technically I could bolt up the whole steering linkage out of the car to test fit that and check the pan to k frame clearance. I won't have the weight of the engine really resting on it, but I'm hoping it will at least give me a good idea where I'll stand.
 
I got biscuits. No, that is not code for anything...

I would throw that pig on the K-member and mock up the steering for sure. I have no idea how to modify/move the spools. Maybe just plates between block/TTI plates...

JOE
 
here are 2 questions regarding above:
a) what dipstick to use? Is it mounted in a predrilled hole in the block on the left side?

b) my right buiscuit mount doesn't fit correct, hitting the oil filter blocking plate. Do I have to cut it to fit? Anybody else with that prob (if a prob at all) ...? The bolt in the right side buiscuit should approx 0.5" lower than the left one, right?
 
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