Hello.Well I just found out the hard way that the stock windage tray on my 340 to 418 stroker kit will not work. It fired right up when I turned the key.Bad news is that it was making a scraping sound. I took the oil pan off yesterday and found that the crank was just barely scraping in 8 places.I did turn the crank after I put the tray on but it still turned ok. I do have some metal shavings in the bottom of the oil pan.I guess that means I need to tear it back down to clean it up or do think it will be ok? It didn't run very long.
Mopar 418 Build
- Thread starter americal
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MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Something I like to do, for that "just in case", a magnet in the sump.
Honestly, what's in the oil system has already done its scratching of the bearings n such and gone into the filter. You can do it 2 ways. Tear it apart and inspect the extent of it and act accordingly or drop pan, fix tray issue, pull intake and oil wash everything down through the sump , check out rocker shafts for any debris, put magnet in oil pan after cleaning it and reinstall pan-New oil and filter, of course.
We would have had to have been there to know how long and loud it was to really judge which route to take.
Honestly, what's in the oil system has already done its scratching of the bearings n such and gone into the filter. You can do it 2 ways. Tear it apart and inspect the extent of it and act accordingly or drop pan, fix tray issue, pull intake and oil wash everything down through the sump , check out rocker shafts for any debris, put magnet in oil pan after cleaning it and reinstall pan-New oil and filter, of course.
We would have had to have been there to know how long and loud it was to really judge which route to take.
stroked340
Well-Known Member
My engine it would be coming apart!!!..cause' you just never know!!
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
I'd:
1. Pull the pan and clean the pan and see how much is in there. Keep in mind that some of this may just be standard rebuild crud and trash. Clean the lower block walls.
2. Pull the oil pump and inspect. If there was no scoring in the pump walls or impellers, then I'd conclude that no shavings went into the engine. All of the oil has to first go through the pump and then the filter, so if the pump is not scored, that is a good sign.
3. If the pump is scored, then consider a fuller inspection and cleaning.
1. Pull the pan and clean the pan and see how much is in there. Keep in mind that some of this may just be standard rebuild crud and trash. Clean the lower block walls.
2. Pull the oil pump and inspect. If there was no scoring in the pump walls or impellers, then I'd conclude that no shavings went into the engine. All of the oil has to first go through the pump and then the filter, so if the pump is not scored, that is a good sign.
3. If the pump is scored, then consider a fuller inspection and cleaning.
Hello.Russ here. I appreciate the advice given to me. Today I just decided to do a complete tear down. I did find very fine pieces of metal throughout the engine. Not too bad but enough to tear it down. The only thing I found was some scratches on the rod bearings.The mains looked fine. I plan on a real good clean up and to replace the rod bearings.I am not going to try to modify the windage tray just going to leave it off.Wish me luck because I am tired of messing with this thing. Thanks Russ.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Cool and I hope it all works out good this time. Sounds like you will get it all out of all the oil passages.
BTW, the oil to the rods has to pass through the main bearing area, so the rod scratches may be from something else..... who knows....
BTW, the oil to the rods has to pass through the main bearing area, so the rod scratches may be from something else..... who knows....
I know how you feel. A lot of effort and no results. I get tired of messing with the same thing all the time as well.
Get them oil passsages clear!
Get them oil passsages clear!
Anyone have pushrods that are not centerd in the pushrod holes in the heads on a 340.When I tore my 340 down to build my 418 stroker I noticed that 2 pushrods on each side had a smooth groove on them. When I rebuilt the engine I bought new pushrods and rockers.I had to take the engine apart because of crank hitting the windage tray.Lots of little metal pieces in the pan.It only ran for a few minutes but I still have the rubbing on 4 of the pushrods.It is not bad but what can I do? Evidently it was not to big of a problem because the last rebuild was 12 years ago. Any ideas?
Hello everyone. After having to take my 418 stroker apart because of the stock windage tray rubbing the crank I am getting close to firing it up soon. Should I change the oil and filter right after the cam is broken in?
moper
Well-Known Member
Nobody talked about the pushrods rubbing. You should clearance them if they are hitting. Not a big deal. On the oil filter - I like to drop the oil and filter after cam break in. Run the 2nd one for 500 miles, then drop it again.
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