Mopar P-3690732 Constant Voltage Regulator

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68 Coronet RT

68 GTS # 508 in Registry
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What are the pros and cons of running the Mopar P-3690732 constant voltage regulator on a street car with the Mopar electronic ignition, I heard without it running the electronic ignition you could burn out the control box then I heard you could boil your battery. Mopar claims race only, has anyone run this regulator on the street, if so any issues ?
 
Personally I think all the hype about these is over-blown. WHAT IS THE JOB of a "voltage regulator?"

Why, it's to REGULATE VOLTAGE. In other words, to KEEP VOLTAGE CONSTANT

One of the infamous on this site went into a big lecture on how "they don't" because they are epoxy coated and you have to grind it off the mounting to GROUND the thing. Well GEEZUS!!! That is true of ANY voltage regulator!!!!

Most overcharge (over-voltage) problems are caused by VOLTAGE DROP in the harness. How does this work? The harness carries power from battery through the bulkhead, through the ignition switch, back out the bulkhead, to the ignition system, the VR, the alternator field, electric choke, if used, and smog doo dads on some cars

By the time "it gets there" there is voltage drop. So the VR says, HEY!!!! We are getting LOW VOLTAGE to "us." SO LET'S RAMP UP the alternator. So what happens is, the VR ramps up the alternator until the VR IGN/ sense terminal is 14X whatever. But because this point is at the low end of the harness, THE BATTERY is above that by whatever the drop is. On my 67 when I bought it, the drop was over 1.5V!!! The battery was seeing 15.5 volts or more
 
Mine failed and the alternator was blasting 18 volts out. I had a box of used factory ones and just swapped until I got something I liked.

Did you go with another Constant Voltage Regulator or just a standard one. If you went with another Constant VR which one did you buy
 
i have been using one in a street car for 10 years now with great success . i also service my bulkhead connector bi yearly . i'm sure it will go another 10 easily .
 
I went through maybe three of them.
Here's the story.
MP did not originally sell them as 'race only'
If you look in an older DC/MP tech bulletin (including in the 'Speed Secrets' edition of the Engine book) that's the regulator they recommend when converting to an ECU with a pre-70 car.
They started saying its 'race only' around 1990 when questioned why they would fail. But if you ever dealt with MP at that time you would know that no one there had a clue anymore. The people who had done all the work and had the knowledge were gone.

Here's what I think really happened.
Someone in the program found or knew that the VR for Studabakers mounted the same way as the Chryslers. And they knew or found out these were available in with solid state internals. So they bought a bunch from the manufacturer, painted them blue and put a p-part number on them.
This worked great and eliminated any concerns about switching noise from the points.

I *think* the problem came along when these regulators were used with alternators that draw higher field currents.
You can buy what looks to be the same regulator from NAPA and Standard, except its not painted.
In my experience failures seem to occur when used with squareback alternators, particularly revised squareback alternators.
That's not scientific or statistical, just my observations.

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I contacted Standard's tech line, and the guy couldn't find any specs for it. All he could dig up was a dimension drawing. But considering these were intended as replacments for Studebakers, there's no reason it would have to handle field currents of 4 to 7 amps. A revised squareback can draw 5 amps or more if I recall correctly. So can a VR128 or MP regulator survive that long term? I don't know.

What 67Dart273 mentioned about voltage drop will surely make the situation worse. Why? Because it will make the regualtor think the voltage is low and spend more time letting full current through.
 
'constant voltage' is prob just marketing BS.
AFAIK it's still a switching device. It's just cleaner because when points switch position they break contact for a fraction of second. Maybe that could be cleaned up with a capacitor but it wasn't 'cause it didn't matter.
 
I heard without it running the electronic ignition you could burn out the control box then I heard you could boil your battery.
Well as far as boiling the battery goes only if you're asleep at the wheel.
You have an ammeter in the instrument panel. If the battery is drawing more current than it should for any reason, including system voltage too high, you'll notice the battery is charging all the time and/or at high rate. So there would be one clue that something is wrong. Put a voltmeter on the battery with the engine running and see if the system voltage at the batter is too high. Another would be the lights - any lights - will be extra bright. If the voltage is very high, some will burn out. So there would be another clue.
 
I am having difficulty with the Studebaker information. The last Studebaker off the line was in '66 and I don't know of anyone at that time using solid state regulators other than Motorola. As to the MP regulator, I used one in my '65 Sport Fury with no problems.
 
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