Mopar R3 Block

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replicaracer43 said:
So you think the rest of us offered no good advice? That's pretty interesting
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A guy like GTXJOHN who may run an R3 block in his type of class racing may have to use the 59 degree and it is what it is......but nobody in their right minds would "WANT" to run 59 degree in an R3 block, not saying that sometimes that's all that was available to buy and also they are cheaper for a reason and so it may suit a persons budget and or availability BUT point remains the same.......NOBODY WOULD WANT 59 over 48
 
replicaracer43 said:
I guess I have no idea what I'm talking about, but I mentioned that way earlier
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All of those variables and added expenses are the norm for starting off with a platform as an R3 block and it won't just stop at the block either if a guy wants to build a hard running one.....and that all gets back to money......which whoops I wasn't suppose to mention the most important aspect of going fast......my bad.
 
'68cuda416 said:
A guy like GTXJOHN who may run an R3 block in his type of class racing may have to use the 59 degree and it is what it is......but nobody in their right minds would "WANT" to run 59 degree in an R3 block, not saying that sometimes that's all that was available to buy and also they are cheaper for a reason and so it may suit a persons budget and or availability BUT point remains the same.......NOBODY WOULD WANT 59 over 48
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I did and do only because of simplicity. Budget wise I always broke my racing into 9 seconds and slower, Mopar small block.(59 degree) 8’s and quicker big block. That fancy stuff screws up my budget.
 
replicaracer43 said:
Perhaps you could explain your position without insulting the op? What exactly do you disagree with
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The 48 degree pushrod angle advantage should be quite evident especially since we are talking R3 blocks here and MOST don't use that block to build a 600 hp engine, also you stated stroke would be limited....which obviously to an extent but one of my engines is a 9.2" deck with a 4" stroke but is siamese bore and is it 4.165 and is roughly 434 cubic inches and makes excellent power so in my opinion a 9.2" deck is not a disadvantage in any way shape or form.
 
'68cuda416 said:
The 48 degree pushrod angle advantage should be quite evident especially since we are talking R3 blocks here and MOST don't use that block to build a 600 hp engine, also you stated stroke would be limited....which obviously to an extent but one of my engines is a 9.2" deck with a 4" stroke but is siamese bore and is it 4.165 and is roughly 434 cubic inches and makes excellent power so in my opinion a 9.2" deck is not a disadvantage in any way shape or form.
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What 4.00 stroke piston is in that block?
 
'68cuda416 said:
The 48 degree pushrod angle advantage should be quite evident especially since we are talking R3 blocks here and MOST don't use that block to build a 600 hp engine, also you stated stroke would be limited....which obviously to an extent but one of my engines is a 9.2" deck with a 4" stroke but is siamese bore and is it 4.165 and is roughly 434 cubic inches and makes excellent power so in my opinion a 9.2" deck is not a disadvantage in any way shape or form.
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Yes, the 48° has a big advantage in a all out build, valve train stability especially, and the shorter deck combinations allow a lighter reciprocating weight, at the expense of long strokes. But the OP said he was interested in a big inch street build, with victor heads, and in THAT PARTICULAR case, the the 9.6 deck, 59° combo is going to be much simpler. And cheaper.
 
Its a custom CP piston that was in the engine when I bought it so don't have the specs your after, was built originally for an 8.50 index racer brand new but the guy relocated out of country so he bailed on it and the engine is also setup for nitrous and if memory serves me correct it was 13.5-1 and then Brett went through the engine a couple years later to update some things and he cut the heads a touch so now it's roughly 14-1
 
replicaracer43 said:
Yes, the 48° has a big advantage in a all out build, valve train stability especially, and the shorter deck combinations allow a lighter reciprocating weight, at the expense of long strokes. But the OP said he was interested in a big inch street build, with victor heads, and in THAT PARTICULAR case, the the 9.6 deck, 59° combo is going to be much simpler. And cheaper.
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I understand what your saying, but what's big? I think 434 cubes is pretty decent size and if he buys a water block which if I recall I am the only person that specifically mentioned that to him then even at 9.6" he will be limited by bore size. Me personally since buying a R3 block and then wanting to run Victors, both of which aren't cheap I certainly at that point wouldn't go backwards and run a 59 degree by choice.
 
I dont recall if there was a siamese 9.6 deck block, but obviously that would have the biggest cubic inch possibility, and I really dont know what his idea of "big" is. Most "street" sbm are as you know, normally 408 or 416, neither of which I personally consider large either
 
replicaracer43 said:
I dont recall if there was a siamese 9.6 deck block, but obviously that would have the biggest cubic inch possibility, and I really dont know what his idea of "big" is. Most "street" sbm are as you know, normally 408 or 416, neither of which I personally consider large either
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Yes there are siamese 9.6" deck blocks
 
replicaracer43 said:
I dont recall if there was a siamese 9.6 deck block, but obviously that would have the biggest cubic inch possibility, and I really dont know what his idea of "big" is. Most "street" sbm are as you know, normally 408 or 416, neither of which I personally consider large either
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Posted above in my Jegs link

C3CF6D9A-5A55-4D7A-9FD8-704DA187F4B6.jpeg
 
*I think that “907” should be a “908.”
From my 9.2/59* block.

image.jpg
 
replicaracer43 said:
Yes, the 48° has a big advantage in a all out build, valve train stability especially, and the shorter deck combinations allow a lighter reciprocating weight, at the expense of long strokes. But the OP said he was interested in a big inch street build, with victor heads, and in THAT PARTICULAR case, the the 9.6 deck, 59° combo is going to be much simpler. And cheaper.
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And he was asking about a hydraulic flat tappet cam. That will be a total waste of time, money and good parts if he goes that way. He is obviously gonna need a lot of guidance. But then again that is what he is asking for and getting from some members. Kim
 
I finished up my R1, Indy headed 434 build six years ago. I bought the engine complete but apart, 396" IIRC. I sold the 3.79" rotating assembly and bought a 4.125" crank and rods and had Diamond build a custom piston for it. The heads were freshened and ported along with the intake, new roller cam and valve train. The engine, parts and machine work all totaled over $17k and I did all the assembly.

If I were doing it again, I'd buy a 6.4, change the rotating assembly, add a hair dryer and go run low 9's on the weekend and drive it to work during the week. Well, now I'd drive it to breakfast and lunch everyday. LOL
 
Ok I'm back. The block is a 9" deck. 59 lifter bores and a 4.15 bore. The cam bores look like the std ones. I don't know what he was talking about there. Here are a few pics of the block He still wants to sell it and it is NOT what I am looking for.

I want to thank all of the helpful posters that have allowed me to even prod the prospect of building an R block engine. I learned a LOT in a short amount of time just what I wanted and needed. You guys ROCK!!!

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Hummm, the extra head bolt bosses are not drilled.
Did he have the intake and timing cover to go with the block?

If he threw than in with the package, then d get it.
I’m not sure what kind of stroke/piston combo you can squeeze in there.
 
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