More ignition issues on the dart

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SpriceyStuff said:
I’d have to look at my diagram. How does a 4 pin work in a 5 pin slot? What it’s being lost when we don’t use the 5th pin? I’ll have to look.
Click to expand...
Nothing is being "lost" exactly. The simple explanation is, that the second resistor in the 4 pin ballast feeds power to part of the box circuitry through that 5th pin. The 4 pin boxes were re-designed circuits and did not need that. Here, by the way, is the simple diagram of a GM 4 pin



If you use one, pay attention to the distributor pickup "polarity" as it will offset the spark event in relation to the rotor (rotor phasing. The GM modules have a locating "tit" which you either must drill for clearance in the heat sink or just cut it off. Make sure the module is mounted flat for heat transfer, and grounded. The mounting screws are the ground.

Also bypass your resistor. Many on here argue., but as an experiment, I used my stock coil and "it lived" just fine, and provides a better visible spark than Mopar. I also did not use a heat sink for same reason, "experiment" I simply mounted it to a flat area on the firewall and there was already a mysterious sheet metal screw there handy for one mounting.

Do NOT try and run the GM module without being mounted to some sort of heat dissapation/ sink.
 
67Dart273 said:
Nothing is being "lost" exactly. The simple explanation is, that the second resistor in the 4 pin ballast feeds power to part of the box circuitry through that 5th pin. The 4 pin boxes were re-designed circuits and did not need that. Here, by the way, is the simple diagram of a GM 4 pin

[/URL]

If you use one, pay attention to the distributor pickup "polarity" as it will offset the spark event in relation to the rotor (rotor phasing. The GM modules have a locating "tit" which you either must drill for clearance in the heat sink or just cut it off. Make sure the module is mounted flat for heat transfer, and grounded. The mounting screws are the ground.

Also bypass your resistor. Many on here argue., but as an experiment, I used my stock coil and "it lived" just fine, and provides a better visible spark than Mopar. I also did not use a heat sink for same reason, "experiment" I simply mounted it to a flat area on the firewall and there was already a mysterious sheet metal screw there handy for one mounting.

Do NOT try and run the GM module without being mounted to some sort of heat dissapation/ sink.
Click to expand...
Alright cool. Also, how do you mean reverse pickup polarity? Isn’t the pickup AC?
 
[1] The cct shown in post #76 is shown a lot & is not quite correct. If the coil you are using [ Chrys stock ] which used a bal res, then the res resistor must be retained. Any coil that uses a bal res must keep it to use that cct. If you used an E core coil such as MSD #8207 [ better, stronger spark ], then res is not needed.
[2] The p/up polarity is relative to rotor phasing & can cause cross firing if you get it wrong.
With the Chrys p/up, the black wire connects to the G [ green ] terminal of the HEI module.
 
My HEI rant here New release Distributor for Slant 6

hei_102.jpg


aaa hei_pic.gif
 
67Dart273 said:
Nothing is being "lost" exactly. The simple explanation is, that the second resistor in the 4 pin ballast feeds power to part of the box circuitry through that 5th pin. The 4 pin boxes were re-designed circuits and did not need that. Here, by the way, is the simple diagram of a GM 4 pin

[/URL]

If you use one, pay attention to the distributor pickup "polarity" as it will offset the spark event in relation to the rotor (rotor phasing. The GM modules have a locating "tit" which you either must drill for clearance in the heat sink or just cut it off. Make sure the module is mounted flat for heat transfer, and grounded. The mounting screws are the ground.

Also bypass your resistor. Many on here argue., but as an experiment, I used my stock coil and "it lived" just fine, and provides a better visible spark than Mopar. I also did not use a heat sink for same reason, "experiment" I simply mounted it to a flat area on the firewall and there was already a mysterious sheet metal screw there handy for one mounting.

Do NOT try and run the GM module without being mounted to some sort of heat dissapation/ sink.
Click to expand...
Am I understanding this correctly? I can put a 4 pin unit on my 5 pin harness and have it be fine?
 
SpriceyStuff said:
Alright cool. Also, how do you mean reverse pickup polarity? Isn’t the pickup AC?
Click to expand...
The pulse is (and I don't remember which comes first) a postive and negative going wave, and they of course "take time." That is, they are slightly one ahead of the other, as the reluctor tip moves past the pickup. The box triggers on ONE of them. If you reverse the wiring, this offsets the pulse in time, and the spark is triggered where the rotor "isn't." This has become known as "rotor phasing" and is much more important now with various EFI and electronic retard/ advance systems.
 
SpriceyStuff said:
Am I understanding this correctly? I can put a 4 pin unit on my 5 pin harness and have it be fine?
Click to expand...
Yes, not the other way. Many modules that have 5 physical pins are actually 4 pin modules electrically. The only way to tell is laborously check resistance from the "5th" to all other pins and the case and see if it's open
 
I decided to go “steal” the ignition module of my brothers 87 RAM and sure as hell she fired right up. I ordered a new module and I’ll be returning my brothers to his truck. Thank god this old module had just enough go in it to get me home that day cause it almost didn’t
 
I’ve had the identical problem with my 73 dart sport. I replaced my ignition switch couple months ago and it fixed the problem… now it’s back. I replaced the module before the switch and it didn’t fix it. I will read this forum in depth later but I wonder if the new ign switch I received was faulty and failed after only a couple months.
 
ratty dart 340 said:
I’ve had the identical problem with my 73 dart sport. I replaced my ignition switch couple months ago and it fixed the problem… now it’s back. I replaced the module before the switch and it didn’t fix it. I will read this forum in depth later but I wonder if the new ign switch I received was faulty and failed after only a couple months.
Click to expand...
Very possible. The construction of the original switch was iffy at best and modern quality control situations haven’t helped it any
 
SpriceyStuff said:
Very possible. The construction of the original switch was iffy at best and modern quality control situations haven’t helped it any
Click to expand...
Yup. I had to remove the connection from the switch to the other wires under the dash. The connector was cracked and the whole unit was junk. Ended up soldering the wires. Sadly, might have to redo it all again if it still is the ignition switch.
 
ratty dart 340 said:
Yup. I had to remove the connection from the switch to the other wires under the dash. The connector was cracked and the whole unit was junk. Ended up soldering the wires. Sadly, might have to redo it all again if it still is the ignition switch.
Click to expand...
Yeah my connector broke too on the harness end. I just used zip ties lol. Works just fine. Is changing the ignition switch as much of a pain in the *** for you as it is for me? (The tapered pin that goes through the column and holds the lock wheel on)
 
SpriceyStuff said:
Yeah my connector broke too on the harness end. I just used zip ties lol. Works just fine. Is changing the ignition switch as much of a pain in the *** for you as it is for me? (The tapered pin that goes through the column and holds the lock wheel on)
Click to expand...
It was very difficult. Once I got that pin out, I put it my pocket and was looking for it for an hour or two. Also the light for gear select, I just have dangling for now.
 
ratty dart 340 said:
It was very difficult. Once I got that pin out, I put it my pocket and was looking for it for an hour or two. Also the light for gear select, I just have dangling for now.
Click to expand...
Yeah so there’s an extra wire on the new switches that does nothing on our cars. I just cut it off at the switch and stick the gear selector light into the socket where it went before on the original switch. Funny how olde switches last a solid 50 years but new switches barely last 6 months
 
SpriceyStuff said:
Yeah so there’s an extra wire on the new switches that does nothing on our cars. I just cut it off at the switch and stick the gear selector light into the socket where it went before on the original switch. Funny how olde switches last a solid 50 years but new switches barely last 6 months
Click to expand...
No kidding… just ordered new brake booster, distributor, gaskets, starter, and I’m hoping they are made well.

For the price, they better be
 
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