Motive Power Bleeder

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I have one. They have a variety of means to attach to master cylinders. The best by far is the ones that fit these master cylinders:

22 3 F.JPG


Here is one during a bleeding:

617 R.JPG


The later model 2 bolt master cylinders made of plastic and aluminum use two screw on vented caps. The Motive bleeder attaches to one section, you use another cap to close off the other side.
For standard master cylinders like these:

A MC 7.jpg


They use this plate:

22 5 A.JPG


It has a rubber seal on the other side.

22 4 Z.JPG


The flimsy hardware they include to clamp the plate down is ****. It sucks.

22 5 E.JPG


The plate will leak with more than 4 psi of pressure. You need a 15 psi pressure number to do the job. FABO member @1 Wild R/T posted this:

1754374697248.png


To seal off the plate, you need something better than those shitty J screws and chain.
Good luck.
 
@Kern Dog
Thanks for the info. I thought I had read somewhere just what you said about the plate not sealing worth a damn. And at the price of the things, you'd think that that problem would have been addressed by the manufacturer.
 
I have a Motive Bleeder as well but I ditched the cheezy hold down chains and use a C-clamp modified to fit the bottom of the master.

It was on Motive’s webpage showing how to use the clamp.
 
I have one that sucks the fluid through the system attaching it at the individual wheel bleeder screw. Works on all vehicles without the various master cylinder adapters needed on a pressure style. fill the master cylinder and suck the fluid to the wheel. Having a clear hose you can watch the old fluid and air come through.

Use it on any car truck or bike no extra pieces required
 

I have one that sucks the fluid through the system attaching it at the individual wheel bleeder screw. Works on all vehicles without the various master cylinder adapters needed on a pressure style. fill the master cylinder and suck the fluid to the wheel. Having a clear hose you can watch the old fluid and air come through.

Use it on any car truck or bike no extra pieces required

On longer wheel base vehicles, I attach the vacuum source hose to a carb vacuum fitting, while engine running instead the hand pump.
The little hand vac pump gets old quickly .

Most important is to wrap a little Teflon tape around the bleeder screw threads, cuz it'll suck air there, don't block the bleeder hole.

I work alone mosta the time. The "mighty vac" system works really well for me.

I also have a commercial pressure bleeder, guys kept getting leaks, melted a lotta paint.
Brake fluid can be a very effective paint remover, any you get on paint, rinse with lotsa water IMMEDIATELY.

Good Luck.

 
With the suction type you can go from wheel to wheel and leave the master cap off . Put the hose on loosen the bleeder , Tighten it and move to the next wheel.

Look in the master and top it off as is required. No pressure in the system. The only place fluid comes out is at the bleeder your doing. And its sucking fluid which cannot spray like a pressure style. Easiest and safest one person method available.

I have seen the pressure style make a real mess when mistakenly taking the master lid off under pressure. Talk about paint damage. Like a small explosion of fluid.
 
I had one, I always fought against air leaks at various points, and it uses a lot of fluid to fill it up enough to work. I ended up going to a Mityvac hand pump that you use at each wheel cylinder, worked great and uses less fluid.
 
I got one years ago when I found out that I couldn't rely on my wife to help me properly bleed the brakes. Apparently, the reason I couldn't get fluid to the right rear after ten minutes was she was pushing the accelerator.... :realcrazy:

I think it works pretty well. I've used it on my several German, Jap, and US cars with the various adapters. Some of them work great and some are cheezy how you have to attach them. The link chain they provide is BS. I'll be coming up with something better before I use it again. But for bleeding by yourself, I think it is a great aid and makes it go quicker. I've heard that some people think that using only the Motiv can lead to a soft pedal. I always try to finish off the last few cycles the old way using the pedal. Something about that 1000+ psi in the line gets all the little bubbles out, IMO.

On fresh builds I've used the pressure tank with fluid to fill, and I've topped the Master off as needed. I would rather not have to clean brake fluid out of the tank so prefer to fill manually, but then you have to get the adapter to seal again.
 
With the vacuum bleeder, - I've had best success by putting a few wraps of Teflon tape on the bleeder screw, cuz it'll suck air there, - don't cover the bleeder hole.
I found pumping up to 15+ish vacuum, - then opening the bleeder . Close - Repeat

Works for me, good luck .
 
I got one years ago when I found out that I couldn't rely on my wife to help me properly bleed the brakes. Apparently, the reason I couldn't get fluid to the right rear after ten minutes was she was pushing the accelerator.... :realcrazy:
I think I've posted this before but probably in about 1990, my wife was doing the pump the pedal duty when I was bleeding the brakes on my 71 Demon. "OK, push down and hold. Good. OK, release. Repeat, repeat. This went on for about 15 minutes. Push down and hold......push down and hold. Did you push the pedal down?" Crickets, nada, nothing: she had fallen asleep!! :rolleyes:

To this day, she HATES to help bleed brakes!!
 
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For my vacuum bleeder I took a bleeder screw and ground the taperd end of it off and put an o-ringon it so it doesn’t suck air around the threads when you pull vacuum on it. It works way better now.
 
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