Moving compressor new pipe

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my5thmopar

my5thmopar

Life Long MOPAR Owner
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I have to move my compressor and was looking at piping. I’m looking at plastic Primefit, HDPE and aluminum flexible pipe kits? Anyone have experience with any of these? Craig
 
Are you starting from scratch, or just moving the compressor and need to reconnect it up to an existing system?
 
Professor Fate said:
Are you starting from scratch, or just moving the compressor and need to reconnect it up to an existing system?
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Scratch. Compressor was near door and connected directly to it. Moving it to the back of garage out of way, tired of walking around it getting into car. I want a connector at door for tires and blowing stuff off outside.
 
have a friend that used the blue pipe kit and it lasted about 1 year. i bought 1/2" tractor trailer air line from napa and the push lock fitting that are used on the big trucks. working on installing it now.
 
I have no experience with any of the options you presented.
But I have successfully piped 3 different shops, one with galvanized 1/2" steel pipe, one with Sch. 80 PVC, and one with Sch. 40 PVC (I know 40 is generally not recommended, but it's what I had access to at the time. It worked fine for the remaining 10 years that I was there).
In all cases I had hydraulic hoses made up to connect the compressor to the rigid line, to isolate the vibration from the compressor and allow a bit of flexibility. The biggest thing (at least in this part of the country) is to install drains for the condensate (I use Schraeder valves) at any drops or dead ends, and use them regularly; just like you drain your compressor tank.
 
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I had PCV on mine like a dipshit. I'm getting ready to go back with black iron pipe.
 
I can recommend to NOT use PVC. I worked in a shop that used it. Schedule 80. Damn lucky nobody died. Literally breaking in sword like shards. Tore lights off of the ceiling, penetrated a door once.
 
I’ve been using clearcore water pipe with insta-tite to copper fitting for over 13 years now. Zero problems. I can leave the system charged for days with no use and the compressor does not kick on when the power is switched on.
 
my5thmopar said:
I have to move my compressor and was looking at piping. I’m looking at plastic Primefit, HDPE and aluminum flexible pipe kits? Anyone have experience with any of these? Craig
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I considered different types of piping and selected 1/2" copper pipe. Made a water trap out of same, very satisfied with the results.
 
I know copper, black and galvanized were the standard. There's a lot of newer technologies today. I'm just starting to look at them.
 
Ran 3/4” RapidAir Maxline in my garage, it was excellent to work with.

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my5thmopar said:
I looked at that one. Will it run random orbital and impact wrench? I usually have 90 or 125 if blowing stuff off.
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The 3/4 Rapid Air lines will run that just fine. Your compressor will be what determines how often to have to stop and let it catch up while running a D/A sander. The higher the compressor CFM rating @ 90 PSI, the better it will keep up.
 
my5thmopar said:
I have to move my compressor and was looking at piping. I’m looking at plastic Primefit, HDPE and aluminum flexible pipe kits? Anyone have experience with any of these? Craig
Click to expand...
I am having real good luck with pex using copper and brass fittings at 150 psi.
Most of my main drops are cooper.
 
I work in the industrial plastic pipe business. Please whatever you do, do not use PVC pipe (sch40 or sch80), as stated earlier when it lets go it produces shrapnel that can harm or even kill. There are company's that sell plastic pipe approved for air service (Asahi being one).
 
71340 said:
I work in the industrial plastic pipe business. Please whatever you do, do not use PVC pipe (sch40 or sch80), as stated earlier when it lets go it produces shrapnel that can harm or even kill. There are company's that sell plastic pipe approved for air service (Asahi being one).
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A friend of mine has his shop air lines plumbed with Sch80 PVC and has a humongous compressor. He has one fitting in one room that hisses due to a leak. I have never encouraged him to fix it because it will keep bleeding pressure off the rest of the system. You can't make people understand that air (gas) pressure is MUCH different than fluid pressure.
 
I’m guilty of having used PVC for my first installation of lines. I didn’t know any better and failed to do any research, but as soon as I started reading up on the PROPER materials to use for air lines, I immediately stopped using it and invested in the more expensive lines that are made for air.

Yes, I may have gotten away with never having an accident, but to me it just wasn’t worth the risk.
 
Lord for the price run the same hose that they use on hose reels. Mine are rubber, and use straps to secure them. Use that temporarily, for the cost of 100' of hose. Then do your "upgrade". The leftover hose after upgrade will get used.
Mine will eventually get a more permanent setup...hopefully. lol.

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I used this 1/2" hose reel on back wall then use 3/8 whip. Compressor is outside, Joe

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JDMopar said:
A friend of mine has his shop air lines plumbed with Sch80 PVC and has a humongous compressor. He has one fitting in one room that hisses due to a leak. I have never encouraged him to fix it because it will keep bleeding pressure off the rest of the system. You can't make people understand that air (gas) pressure is MUCH different than fluid pressure.
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I am going to have to disagree with you on that to a point.
PSI is the same with pneumatic versus hydraulic. 100psi is the same weather you have water pressure or air pressure.
I will agree that pneumatic will have a much more violent burst than hydraulic.
pneumatic psi will find leaks easier than hydraulic psi.
Hydraulic will gain pressure due to hydrostatic weight and pneumatic will not.

I would never use pvc for air lines. I would not use pex for airlines with plastic connectors.
I would not use rapid air system with plastic connectors.

Rapid air stuff seems to be a pretty good system but I feel it is just a marketed pex set up.
I would use pex or rapid air with brass or copper connectors.

The first two shops I plumbed for air were done in copper and I had zero issues other than quick connects for well over 10 years at each shop. Both shops were industrial 24/7 businesses.
This is my preferred method but now days, copper is very, very expensive.

Rapid air has great stuff and is very user friendly. I feel that they have built there product line off of the pex system and that is a great system. (do not use plastic connectors)

I already have the tools to do pex and my shop is pretty large 80x65 so I have a lot of air lines.
I saved a lot building my own system using pex with copper drops in areas that would see heavy use or welding.

If somebody had a smaller shop and did not already have the tools to sweat copper and crimp pex, The rapid air could be the cheaper option.

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