mpg on my 340

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.. highly unlikely you would have been running 24 degrees at WOT
and i think Mopar sm blks should be around 51 degrees at cruise speeds
 
@ AJ/Form /S

followed your advise.... changed the springs... the light brown ( stock Accel spring ) was changed against the orange one ( a little stiffer ) and the silver spring with the LOOP was also changed against a stiffer one ( GREEN Spring now )...
So the curve is a little slower...

@ idle I have 11 deg BTDC 24 deg Advance...and 14 deg from the VC on top... all together 49 deg. at 3500 rpm...

I also changed the thermostat... from 195°F down to 180°F...
Result : NO MORE PINGING...no pinging while cruising...and also no pinging under part time acceleration...

Thank you ! Your advise was a perfect solution for my problem

Greetings Juergen
 
@ AJ/Form /S

followed your advise.... changed the springs... the light brown ( stock Accel spring ) was changed against the orange one ( a little stiffer ) and the silver spring with the LOOP was also changed against a stiffer one ( GREEN Spring now )...
So the curve is a little slower...

@ idle I have 11 deg BTDC 24 deg Advance...and 14 deg from the VC on top... all together 49 deg. at 3500 rpm...

I also changed the thermostat... from 195°F down to 180°F...
Result : NO MORE PINGING...no pinging while cruising...and also no pinging under part time acceleration...

Thank you ! Your advise was a perfect solution for my problem

Greetings Juergen

Nice congrats, AJ knows his shiz lol. I bet that cooler T-stat made a big difference in reducing the pinging, what are your running temps now?

Alles Gute,
Khalid
 
Vacuum advance is not part of the all in. It is in addition to the total of initial plus centrifugal. The V-cans vary from as low as 8 or 9 to as much as 22. I have not seen cans outside this range. I have run cruise timings well over 50*, and into the 60s, with a very lean combo.To run a cruise A/F over 15/1 to near to 16/1, and aluminum heads,you have to start the fire very early, and the tighter the squish,the better.That's where the mileage is. Then if you regear the chassis to lower the rpm, that's where 30 mpgUS lives with a 270cam.Your Scr(aluminum) needs to be near/over 11/1 .My cylinder pressure was over 185.
 
Brasil
Now you have a base from which to work with
12/35@3500 plus 14ported; write it down.
Then you can spend the rest of the summer sneaking up on the perfect curve. And next summer.
Yes. I want to know also how your current running temp compares to the earlier running temp. Remember; the hotter you run without destruction, the more power potential your engine has.But you have to coax it out of her. She's like a virgin wife on the marriage bed;slow and easy.
 
Sorry for going off topic, do you guys have any tips to stop splash back? Everytime i put petrol in it always ends up splashing back at me, ive tried a few different techniques but unless i let the last bit trickle fill it will splash back before the nossle has enough time to stop pumping fuel
 
Does it do it at every station, and with their anti-splash guard in place? If yes then I expect that would be a venting issue. Or actually the lack of venting. If the air has to come out of the tank,through the same hole that the fuel is going into, then splash-back is the result.

What are we working on?
 
Yeah it does it at every station, makes sense its a venting issue.It used to poor petrol out when driving from the top of the tank when it was 3/4 full. I traced it back to some hoses coming from the top of the tank that seemed to be cut near my diff. I pulled the hoses out and capped the top of the tank. i have a vented fuel cap as well.Where could those vent hoses have been running to in the past?

Its a 71 340 Duster
 
I think the 71s had a vapor separator above tank level, and then a line went to the underhood area and attached to a charcoal canister. If you have defeated this system, that's the problem. This was discussed recently on FABO in another thread. There were photos posted up.There are other options discussed there too.

Search "vapor separator" and newer than June 1,2016
 
This has nothing to do with the tank venting. The tank vent..........a 1/4" tube.......could never ever flow enough air to vent a tank when filling. The fill issue is "right in the neck."

If this is a later car, might be the neck is protruding or damaged. It most likely is way too much pump pressure on modern nozzles. When I had my 67 running, there was only about 3 local stations I went to, normally, and there were at least 3 that I purposly stayed out of. One was so bad I don't know how anyone used it. It would puke over on my Ranger or the Olds. I complained to the typical check out girl, trying to get her to say something to the owner manager, and I could tell, "taking to the wall" made more sense.
 
I remember back before the no lead nozzle restrictors and you could pump 20 gallons reeeally quick. Buying gas now takes twice the time, it shoots out really fast from a tiny orifice, and I bet that puts a LOT more vocs into the atmosphete than the older low pressure, high volume larger nozzles.
More modern idiocy.
 
With my moderately built 340 (about 375 HP), 4 speed and 3.55 gears, my 69 Cuda gets 16 on the highway at 60 MPH. In town sucks though.
 
This has nothing to do with the tank venting. The tank vent..........a 1/4" tube.......could never ever flow enough air to vent a tank when filling. The fill issue is "right in the neck."

If this is a later car, might be the neck is protruding or damaged. It most likely is way too much pump pressure on modern nozzles. When I had my 67 running, there was only about 3 local stations I went to, normally, and there were at least 3 that I purposly stayed out of. One was so bad I don't know how anyone used it. It would puke over on my Ranger or the Olds. I complained to the typical check out girl, trying to get her to say something to the owner manager, and I could tell, "taking to the wall" made more sense.
Del, I want to agree with you, and I understand what you are saying.
But with certain tanks a bubble of air gets trapped at the top of the tank, during the last few seconds of filling. Which can become compressed and then unload, puking almost solid fuel.
My wife has an 05 Escape which is known to do this when spiders make a home in it's vent line.Simply blowing the nest out cures the problem.
My daughter has an 05 X-Trail with a similar situation, and on this car,the problem so well known that Nissan offers a work-around kit for something like $ 250Can. But I discovered that there was a recall on those, and my daughter got it for the cost of commuting to the city two times, cuz they had the car for three days. 'Course Daddy played taxi, so I had to chip in for two trips as well. So total cost was like , oh lemme guess $250 ish! And no, they would not give me the part to install here in the country. And yes they would sell it to me. But after looking the job over, I was suddenly happy to be a taxi.....
 
@ aj/form /s
my current running temperature is now 180 °F ..before the temperature was close to 200°F...

Greetings Juergen
 
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