I've searched the /6 forum and can't come up with the Mr. Gasket P/N for centrifugal advance springs. The Summit site has maybe four kits but none say Mopar. Anyone have the P/N handy?
Mr Gasket Advance Springs
- Thread starter KosmicKuda
- Start date
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Do any of these help???
http://www.manciniracing.com/disadweigspr.html
Some say SB & BB, but I think all mopar elect dist take the same springs....
http://www.manciniracing.com/disadweigspr.html
Some say SB & BB, but I think all mopar elect dist take the same springs....
Inertia
Well-Known Member
mguner
How many is too many?
Just a note about soft springs. If you notice your timing bouncing around at idle you may want to use one of these aftermarket springs and the smaller stock spring instead of both aftermarket springs. Sometimes the all in at 2500 on a street car can also cause pinging under part throttle acceleration.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
That's mentioned in the instructions.. but good to mention, cuz who reads instructions till after, whatever, doesn't work.. lol
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
Take a look here.
http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=52750
http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=52750
mguner
How many is too many?
Instructions? We don't need no stinking instructions! 
It's a guy thing... :glasses7:
ir3333
Well-Known Member
for those that have used one mr. gasket spring with a stock mopar distributor what was your curve?
Thanks for the quick response. I can go to the Summit store on the way home from work. I'm thinking I'll just get the little bugger running first and put some miles on her before I start tinkering too much. After thinking about it awhile, I'm pretty sure I have some light springs in a toolbox at my other place.
I have had the best luck on the street using one of the lightest springs and one of the medium springs.
Mine liked the light stock one and one of the MP light springs...
Exactly. Usually the best results are outside the box.
.....but not with everything.
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
When I first got my car, it had two Mr. Gasket springs in it. It was at full advance at idle (800 rpm). I replaced one spring with a medium weight one from FBO Ignitions and was able to get my full advance at 2800 rpm (approx).
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I replaced the big spring with the 925B light spring and am all in at about 2,600 RPMs.
I run 12-22-52 on the timing with the vac advance.
ir3333
Well-Known Member
TX TB...exactly the advance rate most would want in a street machine.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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TB
I think I understand your numbers, just haven't seen it written that way before.
In my 360,I run 14-34-60, with a 2stage curve.These are; idle-power-and max.cruise. The knee is around 2800, and all in at about 3400. This kept my stick-car out of detonation in the 2800 to 3600 zone, running a Dcr of over 9/1,and burning 87E10(Eddies). I could have run more timing in there but I got tired of pulling the oem dizzy. Actually I got lazy.It was working soo sweet, I quit chasing perfection.
Using your language, it would be; 14-20-60.
Yeah my can is modded.Its hard to get more than 20 out of a can.
OP, this doesnt help you much, except once you get into it, you will understand the jargon. Slantys like lots of initial. 12* is a good number. And 34* power timing is also a good number. and 54*max.cruise, is almost all you can hope for. So TBs 12-22-52 (my 12-34-54),is spot on. Your task is to bring in the power timing as fast as possible without incurring detonation. My winter-beater slanty has a Scr of 9.5, and takes it plenty quick.
So good luck finding the sweetspot.
I think I understand your numbers, just haven't seen it written that way before.
In my 360,I run 14-34-60, with a 2stage curve.These are; idle-power-and max.cruise. The knee is around 2800, and all in at about 3400. This kept my stick-car out of detonation in the 2800 to 3600 zone, running a Dcr of over 9/1,and burning 87E10(Eddies). I could have run more timing in there but I got tired of pulling the oem dizzy. Actually I got lazy.It was working soo sweet, I quit chasing perfection.
Using your language, it would be; 14-20-60.
Yeah my can is modded.Its hard to get more than 20 out of a can.
OP, this doesnt help you much, except once you get into it, you will understand the jargon. Slantys like lots of initial. 12* is a good number. And 34* power timing is also a good number. and 54*max.cruise, is almost all you can hope for. So TBs 12-22-52 (my 12-34-54),is spot on. Your task is to bring in the power timing as fast as possible without incurring detonation. My winter-beater slanty has a Scr of 9.5, and takes it plenty quick.
So good luck finding the sweetspot.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Don't know what your elevation is but that sounds right in there.
I get a little tiny bit of detonation on regular gas at WOT on a hot day, so that's about the best I can hope for with 87 octane.
I get about the same amount of miles per dollar out of 91, but someone around here only really cares that it costs more.
No, I'm glad this spurred a discussion. It needs to be out there.
RRR's suggestion of only replacing the heavy spring with a light one was going to be my starting plan of attack anyway.
It's a 64 225 Val w/ 3 spd manual, 3.23 gear, bored and honed +.040, Oregon 818 cam (252), rebuilt head with hardened seats, new valve guides, pocket ported, gasket matched. I'm more inclined to get this on the road before Winter. My original intent was to get it running and experience the ecstasy of the stock slanty just the way it was before doing mods but the seller kinda misrepresented the condition. "Needs carb rebuild and small elect problems fixed." 5 of 6 pistons locked to conn rods and oil system sludged up forced the rebuild and I can't just put it together stock after all that. I just can't.
goldduster318
Overzealous Car Modifier
I remove the stock heavy spring, take the stock light spring and remove one coil. Seems to be just about perfect.
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