my brain hurts with another 318

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Great advice from the caferacer.

I was thinking this was your first rebuild/attempt.

I use the "How to rebuild your small block MoPar" book with excellent results. It was a HP book I think with Don Taylor I think his name was. I forget.....old age and such....;(
 
OH, by the way, I'll take a good book like above any day over the net and all the guru's there are. Allways at my finger tips and never gives 10 different answers to the same question. LOL!
 
I'm going to do a .020 or .030 over bore and zero deck with kb167 pistons. I will decide on the cam and heads later! If i can easily and cheaply get a set of 360's I will go that route but it depends on prices. At least i can tell the machine shop what to start with.
 
Good for you! The less overbore the better.
Do the KB167's come in a .020 overbore?
 
Cafex my cb is a sand cast. When I bought it was choppered. I sandblasted it and found some scary welds. I found another frame and will do a cafe racer. Way cooler and faster than another chopper. Its in pieces so the only photo I have is the chopper one. I will have to locate it.
 
I see the kb167 at summit from std to .060. I have some ware at the top of the cylinder so i think a bore of some sort is going to be necessary.
 
Cafex my cb is a sand cast. When I bought it was choppered. I sandblasted it and found some scary welds. I found another frame and will do a cafe racer. Way cooler and faster than another chopper. Its in pieces so the only photo I have is the chopper one. I will have to locate it.

I have 2 CB750 super sport's one someone cut the frame to replace a head gasket?!?!?! so it is only good for parts now, the good one is getting mild cafe treatment, stripped down, 1/4 faring, probably drag bars or clubman's, if I go with drag bars I will keep the stock pegs if I run clubman's I will go rear set's

more cool=less comfort
more comfort=less cool
 
Great advice from the caferacer.

I was thinking this was your first rebuild/attempt.

I use the "How to rebuild your small block MoPar" book with excellent results. It was a HP book I think with Don Taylor I think his name was. I forget.....old age and such....;(


Excellent book, I still follow it page by page on assembly, after a hundred or so small blocks.........

Not much on Larry Sheepherder's book...........


Don't let the 400HP 318 give you a headache, 350HP is easy, and to most, 350HP is 450HP.......... :-D I have built TONS of smallblocks just like you are trying to put together.

The 268/276 voodoo is a great street/350-400HP cam.
 
I'll throw in my .02.

If you zero deck the block and go with flat top 167's you can definitely pick the heads later. I would look at closed chamber heads though, and not open chamber 360 heads.

The closed chamber heads set up a better quench, and will give you better compression numbers. That will allow you to set up your compression as you want it without shaving the heads down, and should make more power.

In looking at all the heads out there, the magnum heads for a street 318 are a pretty good choice. They outflow the original 318 heads, are pretty much comparable flow wise to the 360 heads, and have closed chambers (usually around 60cc's). That will let you run around a .040 head gasket and put you close to or right at 10:1 for the compression. Yes, that's pretty much the 400hp Mopar Muscle build. And while I don't think in street tune that engine will make 400hp, I do think its a good build plan.

The nice thing about the Magnum heads is that they're everywhere, and they don't really need any work to make good power. The already have 1.92/1.62 valves and flow almost as well as a 2.02/1.60 J head, depending on who's bench numbers you look at. They also have a newer design for the chamber and ports, so some say they're more efficient than the older 360 design. The only real issue is the conversion parts, ie, you'll have to get oil through lifters and push rods, a magnum intake and the 1.6 ratio rockers. Intake choice is a little more limited, but for a street engine they have a Magnum version of the RPM air gap, which is a great intake.

302's are a good option too, as they're also closed chamber heads, but they also have the smaller 318 ports and valves. They flow well with bigger valves and a little port work, but then you need to have that work done. Without port work, magnum heads flow much better. And the 302's aren't usually as easy to find, and they tend to be more expensive if you can find them.

The only real issue with 360 heads is the open chamber design. They have larger ports and valves and flow plenty well enough in stock trim for a 318. But, the chambers can be anywhere from 65 to 70cc's, so you have to watch your compression ratio. Now, if you can find a set at 65cc's and aren't looking to be right at 10:1, they'll be fine.

As far as cams go, everyone has their own preferences. I like the Lunati Voodoo series, something like a 60402 or 60403 make good street cams. Keep in mind that if you do use magnum heads to take into account the 1.6 ratio rockers, you'll end up with more lift than advertised since all the specs are with 1.5 ratio rockers.

Realistically, getting the pistons at zero deck and setting everything up with a torque plate hone and square deck is the starting point you need. Get the compression in the 9.5 to 10:1 range and any of the above heads should put you in the mid 300 hp range with a good cam.
 
Here's a quick and easy 318 idea. Do the block 0 deck as discussed, KB pistons, etc like previously mentioned, use the heads the 318 has, add bigg EX valve only, and springs for a cam of size. add a 268/276 voodoo, headers, a great find would be the torker 318, or Holley street dominator, port match to the heads, slam a cheap EB carb, 600cfm, Mr Gasket air cleaner, a reasonably priced 2500 converter, and go have some cheap fun, for YEARS!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Thanks for all the input, now I feel more prepared to talk to the machine shop on Saturday.
 

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