Ok, I know there is alot of info in this info but I am not sure what to do with the numbers. I know you need spec's: 422 stroker, stock 63 cc eddy heads, tti headers 1 3/4, 3" super turbos, 244@50 roller 550 lift cam, 1.5 roller rockers, 850cfm holley, 727 3200 stall, 4:10 dana 10.5/1 CR, caltrac adjust shocks, 002/003 springs.
MY dyno and ET slip, What do they tell you?
- Thread starter Dustedu2
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SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
Nice, 422 is a 340 stroker?
72challorange
Well-Known Member
Are the #'s from a chassis dyno or engine dyno?
Tom
Weights needed as well.
Tom
Weights needed as well.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
hoping chassis, but by that 110mph looking like engine
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
Personally I think you need more convertor,say around 4-4500.Will help your 60fts and E.T,s. JMO.
P.S Weight,tire size and what shocks?
P.S Weight,tire size and what shocks?
1wild&crazyguy
Banned
No, he needs more cam, head work ...then maybe go up to 3500 stall.
You not making much power with 422 inches.
You not making much power with 422 inches.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
agreed! but we dont know if chassis or Engine dyno. if its Chassis thats not bad and would put him at what 480-490hp at the crank?
Have not weighed it but my guess is 3250lbs and it was chassis dyno. I was at the pedal with a tach that was off so guessing when to nail it. not sure how much difference it makes to have experience at the wheel. The 1 st ET slip is with bolt on and go parts. No experience tuning.
340 block .060 over (4.10 bore) and 4" forged crank.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
I believe should be a mid 11 second car. Did they tune it or just dyno?
Should be low 11's with about 118-121mph at that weight.
I'll guess fuel system is running behind consumption.
I'll guess fuel system is running behind consumption.
moper
Well-Known Member
Without knowing much more.. Is the convertor a 10"? Are you leaving on the convertor or off idle? What tires? IMO, if you are looking for ET and not concerning with drivability... You need to work hard on that 60'. Tune the shocks, and work on the launch rpm.
Edit - I didn't read this answer.. This looks like a chassis dyno record with an O2 trace. Is it a chassis dyno or engine dyno? If it's engine dyno, what were the BSFCs over the power curve RPM?
Edit - I didn't read this answer.. This looks like a chassis dyno record with an O2 trace. Is it a chassis dyno or engine dyno? If it's engine dyno, what were the BSFCs over the power curve RPM?
I was thinking I could get low 11's
Yes, the weight transfer and launch is where I will gain some I think. I also am going to install rachet shifter to get more rpm before it shifts.
Chasis dyno
no tune at dyno, They were pretty laid back at this place. I didn't ask for tune though.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
Might have saved some future money and time having it dynoed.
11" Boss Hog 54093 converter, 26"x11" street drags, off at about 2k rpm
After the 1st run I couldn't get the tires to stick, if they did the wheel spun in the tire. I am correcting that problem this week. I am looking for some 28" tires also.
The MPH looks really low, but then again your engine is done making power @ 5200 (and falls off fast), which is Really low as well.
2 questions:
What valve springs?
What intake?
I think the low RPM HP peak is hurting your ET with your current gearing. FWIW,my combo is VERY similar (except my Eddys are ported), and I cross the stripe @ 6700. So if you want to keep the engine the same you should probably go with less gear to keep the engine from running out of power on the big end....or give it more cam and port the heads so it can breath up above 6000rpm....just my 2 cents.
2 questions:
What valve springs?
What intake?
I think the low RPM HP peak is hurting your ET with your current gearing. FWIW,my combo is VERY similar (except my Eddys are ported), and I cross the stripe @ 6700. So if you want to keep the engine the same you should probably go with less gear to keep the engine from running out of power on the big end....or give it more cam and port the heads so it can breath up above 6000rpm....just my 2 cents.
I have the Lifters and springs COMP recommended for the CAM and I have an eddy Air gap with 1" super sucker spacer. I think bigger tires might help at the end don't you. It has 26" now if I went with 28" or 29" that should give more reserve on the RPM ???
I am a little skeptical about the dyno I had done. I am going to get another one at another shop just to compare once I get my custom carb installed next week. I am getting a BIGS 950HP (830cfm) setup for my build.
what rpm did it run through the light at 110mph?
4.10, 26" tire right
4.10, 26" tire right
Bigger tires will help some. I run 28" tire if that helps (and cross the stripe @ 6700).
Not sure of RPM cuz when I put the stroker in my tach started acting funny (runs to my MSD red box) calculator I used when plugged in data says 5800. not sure.
Gear is 4.10 tires were 26"
moper
Well-Known Member
That convertor is 90% of the problem. An 11" convertor with that high a stall speed will slip like a son of a ***** in high gear. Get either one of the "en vogue" 9.5" units from Dynamic, PTC, or preferrably Ultimate or a "tight" 8" set to 3600. Get some taller tires.
And you still didnt answer or did I miss it... Chassis dyno or engine?
And you still didnt answer or did I miss it... Chassis dyno or engine?
He answered it above...
Bad converters do nasty things to good cars/engines.
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