Your not going to get anywhere by using another car's reference points. There's only one way to ensure your car is aligned properly and that's to take it to a REPUTABLE guy who know's what he's doing. Not the answer you were looking for but the truth...btw, welcome!
Not true. You can get these cars a lot closer to "right" than you'd think just by doing the following...
First thing you want to do is make sure the car is level. Adjusting the height with the torsion bar adjusters changes the alignment, so set the ride height where you want it first. If the car isn't level side to side the alignment will be different side to side.
Next, adjust the camber bolts on the UCA's. On the front UCA mount the camber bolt should be all the way "out", ie, rotated away from the frame. On the rear UCA mount the camber bolt should be all the way "in", so the bolt is as close to the frame as possible. That should set the camber and caster pretty evenly side to side, and it should actually be fairly close to where you want to be. If the tires appear too "tipped in" at the top, you can rotate the rear camber bolt out away from the frame a little. This will reduce the negative camber (tire appearing tipped in at the top, toward the car), but it will also reduce the +caster. If your car sits lower than the stock ride height that may be necessary, as you gain negative camber as the car is lowered. Ideally, if you have radial tires you want a small amount of negative camber. -.5* is a good place to be for a street car, but anything less than -1* won't cause any abnormal wear. I run -.9* on my Challenger with no issues. If you're "eyeballing" it, -1* of camber is about the point where it becomes fairly easy to see that the tires have negative camber, even just at a glance. Even at -.5* the tires will appear pretty much vertical at first glance, you'll only see the negative camber if you really look for it.
Toe- you
MUST set this. Caster isn't a tire wearing adjustment, and camber only is if it's WAY off, like, well over 1* in either direction. Toe, on the other hand, will strip all the tread off your tires in short order if it's wrong. Once everything else is adjusted, you can park the car on level ground with the wheels straight ahead and measure center to center on the tires in the front where the tires touch the ground, and again in the back. You want the tires toed in about 1/8" to 1/16" ideally (front c-c measurement 1/16" to 1/8" narrower than the rear), but if you can get it under a 1/4" and you should be ok to drive it to an alignment shop.
Obviously, every car is a little different, so some fine tuning on an alignment rack is going to be needed before you put a ton of miles on the car. But if your suspension bushings and components are straight and in good condition, and your car hasn't been hit or bent, those settings should get you pretty close. If you set the car up like that and it STILL looks different side to side, you may have damaged suspension parts that will need to be dealt with.
I've done a few cars exactly like I've described above and had them very close when they went to the alignment shop. My Duster has 6k miles on the alignment that I put on it. No abnormal tire wear, drives straight, doesn't pull. But I've done this more than a few times so I've gotten pretty decent at roughing alignments in. It's amazing what you can accomplish with a good ruler and your eyeballs if you know what you're looking for.