need help no-brake lights

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340kid

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in the process of rewiring my sons 72 416 Duster, we used a painless universal 12 circuit fuse box, original (new) headlight switch new forward/rear lamp harness from year one, new brake/stop switch,
this is what works:
i have parking lamps working along with headlights,
all turn signals work
Hazzards all work except passenger rear
no brake lights at all !

with my test light, i have power at both sides of brake light switch

up at turn signal switch right side connections there are 6 terminals (rivets) upper bank has 3 rivets - small wht wire #1, second rivet has no wire but looks like it is bridged to #1, third rivet tan wire,
lower bank #4 has heavy white wire, next rivet #5 has pink wire, next rivet #6 has green wire.

here are my test results with test light.
1 - with everything off all rivets are dead except #5 pink wire is shows dull light
2 - with brake switch on both white rivets #1 & #4 show power (bright test light) what confuses me is that the rivet #1 has power but the wire attached to this rivet has no power - this is the wire which feeds the turn signal cam on the left
3 - hazzard switch on - no brake lights - rivet #1 is dead but wire attached to it is hot and turn signal connection on left is hot, rivet #2 which is bridged to #1 blinks bright, rivet #3 (tan) blinks bright, rivet #4 heavy white shows constant bright, rivet #5 (pink) blinks bright, rivet #6 (green) blinks bright.

what i did note: if i jumped rivet #1 to the small white wire attached to it the brake lights do go on (both sides) and the brake switch works.

here is a pic that i borrowed from this site of the switch mechanism which is exactly like the one i'm dealing with.

i am completely stumped !
 

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Not sure if it applies to your set up, but I lost my brake lights after changing my steering coupler. Turns out I inadvertently pulled one of the connectorts off the switch (attached to pedal linkage) when I dropped the column. Plugged in back in and was good to go. Good luck.

Pat
 
Make ABSOLUTEY certain the hazard switch is OFF. The brake lamp power runs through the switch. I used to know these switches, but it's been YEARS. They were never designed to be repaired internally.

I used to know how to "jimmy" repair them. They would develop a problem internally with the hazard part of the switch, and there is a way to cut/ move one wire so that everything works except the hazard, which I used to just cut off. This was meant to be a temporary repair, back in my Navy days --you know-- broke sailors!!!
 
I had a similar problem with my 66 Barracuda. No brake light on drivers side, but the driver side signal and tail light worked fine. After checking the wiring diagram and tracing the wires, I finally realized the right and left brake light circuits pass through the directional signal switch. (right and left brake lights have their own individual/separate wires). This is done to keep the right or left directional signal flashing when the brakes are applied.

I took my directional signal apart (without removing it from the steering column), cleaned the contacts and reassembled the switch. It now works fine. Just a note...a continuity or voltage check between one side of the brake light switch and the brake light wiring connector behind the driver side kick panel will tell you if a circuit is complete.

Since you don't mention you replaced the signal switch, the problem may be with your switch. But before buying a new one and going through the hassle to replace it, tried cleaning it.
Pat
 
I actually had one of those in your picture go bad last year. No brake lights.
Lady stopped me to tell me. I then remembered seeing whisp of smoke months earlier at the column. Turns out the brake contacts were fried.
Unfortunately the wiring diagrams don't show the colors. I think I had to cut it up to tell what was what. New switches are available.
 
i bought a new turn signal repair kit from napa, its just the left side thingy, im thinking the larger mechanism like in the pic i posted is toast maybe ???

how dificult is it to change this, this setup goes down the steering colum and has a big connector, is it hard to snake this down the colum ??
 
Why not simply run the wire from the brake lite switch directly to the brake lites. I recently rewired my Duster and done it that way.
 
srduster340 said:
Why not simply run the wire from the brake lite switch directly to the brake lites. I recently rewired my Duster and done it that way.
Click to expand...

Because..................heh..........................then the turn signals wont' work??
 
You're right 67Dart273. I'm an idiot! I was thinking reverse lites. That brake lite wire goes into the white wire on the turn signal if you have the factory switch. I have the Ron Francis kit and that's how mine is wired.
 
1157's i believe,,,,y one thing i did notice when i was installing the Napa turn signal repair kit is that the original turn signal swith on the left side has 2 raised terminal ends on the top and botton,( this is where the upper cam rides above the lower cam ) i'm assuming this makes contact to the respective lights.... the upper terminals were worn out almost below the plastic housing, and it appeared like there was lots of brass particles scattered around the housing, i'm thinking the the turn signal switch is toast, i ordered a "sm11" from Shee-Mar today !
 
I had the same problem with my 67, right brake lamp would not illuminate. After screwing around I discovered if directional signal lever was gently pulled in direction of steering wheel the right brake light worked. The signal switch was worn out after 40+ years…, go figure… I replaced it with a new switch, and all light problems were corrected.
 
You have me remembering and missing cousin Jack again. God rest his sole.
Try convincing a carpenter that the problem with his brake lights is the turn signal switch and not the brake light switch. LOL
I reminded him that I couldn't figure out the cuts for the stringers under my steps either.
We did make a good team :)
 
The only reason I mentioned the bulbs is I've seen so many times over the years where a guy will install a single element bulb in a dual element socket & cause backfeeding problems. I wondered because you said you have power on both sides of the brake light switch.
 
update / everything works now, i replaced the whole turn switch assembly and everything works thank goodness, i used a Shee-Mar SM111 Turn signal assembly from Ebay $25 bucks shipped !!
 
thanks, it amazes me how ma mopar did some of their wiring and the paths it takes in the wiring, just glad it is fixed, now i need to tackle my charging/voltage reg issue which i hope i can tackle SUNDAY , I read your posts and need to diagnose the problem, had not had time over the last week to really devote any time to it, i lost my father in-law last week and things have been crazy !
 
Great. For other people, I recall a post where someone found that if the little sliding metal contacts underneath the turn signal cancel cam get flipped around (easy to do when they pop out during a cam replacement), the brake lights act like that. He posted great photos showing how they should be installed.
 
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