1970 340, 4 speed, 130 tooth ring gear, 17466 mini starter the one everybody seems to use successfully. My problem is the bendix doesn’t mesh. It acts like the bendix is too big. I can engage the bendix manually, but when turning the motor by hand with the bendix engaged, it clunks really hard. I found this out the first time I bumped the key to test the starter engagement, and it sounded awful. The starter fits perfect otherwise, bolt holes align, the nose fits in the receiver hole. Any thoughts? Could the ring gear be larger and still be 130 tooth? Please help!
Need Help! Starter issues.
- Thread starter MD68
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New flywheel? Or old one you have had for a while? What did you have in before for a starter? Maybe your new mini has the incorrect drive installed? Does it look like below? It should have 10 teeth.
Old flywheel came out of running car, with everything else, purchased from well respected member here. Bellhousing, clutch, A833, etc. It did not have a starter with it when I purchased it.
Yes, same starter as in picture with 10 tooth drive. I’ve even tried two different starters, same result.
Yes, same starter as in picture with 10 tooth drive. I’ve even tried two different starters, same result.
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
ring gear can not be larger if 130 teeth. if u can engage it manually, and have tried different starters, I guess the bellhouse is off a little. do a little massaging with a grinder
Ring gears go bad. Engines stop usually in one of three places, when a certain cylinder is on compression, so will wear in these places from startup. Check the condition of the ring gear.
I’m leaning towards a starter positioning issue as well. Maybe a bell housing issue? Strange one for sure. Sorry not there so good luck!
If I were to massage it, where would be the best place to do so? Nose of starter? Receiver hole in bell? Bendix gear itself?
Won’t the starter have a tendency to vibrate if the nose doesn’t fit snugly in the bell?
Won’t the starter have a tendency to vibrate if the nose doesn’t fit snugly in the bell?
My 2 bits, do not alter anything! Just get a case of beer and do some exact comparisons or measurements . Take your time, this stuff is too expensive to start altering things. This is not a Chevy where you have to shim or alter stuff. Mopar does not historically have an issue in this area? Get the bellhousing stamp number and do some research on applications?? Just a thought , might get you know where but at least eliminate that. Good luck.
I had the same thing happen to me once after a starter R/R. Same starter, same ring gear.
I just unbolted and repositioned and held it tight against while tightening the bolt and nut.
Never did figure out what was wrong, but it's been in over a year now with no problem.
I just unbolted and repositioned and held it tight against while tightening the bolt and nut.
Never did figure out what was wrong, but it's been in over a year now with no problem.
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
What is the 17466 original application?
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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I think some of those starters have an issue with spinning before they are engaged. Maybe get a helper on the key and get eyes on the bendex.
I bought the first one through a friend. They have a family business that rebuilds starters and alternators. They have been in business for like 50 years. It' the same starter used in the 90's Dakota's that I've heard lots of people use with great success. It' also the recommended direct replacement for the original 340 starter, it' just a different configuration referred to as the mini version.
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
I see 17677 at rock auto
You
You are correct, it is reduction gear type that replaced the large heavy clunky original style.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
All I can suggest is turn the flywheel over until you an inspect all of it. Eyeball where the ring gear is front to back on the flywheel. And take a HELL of a good look down into the pilot in the bell for the starter nose. Make sure it's clean, not cracked/ broken etc
Interesting? I thought the stud was just for ease of installation? Whatever the resolve I am curious to know MD68..Thank you
Update:
So I was able to get the mini starter lined up and everything appears that it will work now. Turns out that it was just an alignment/my fault issue. I had previously modified the z-bar to work with Dougs headers and part of the weld cracked causing the bottom of the z-bar to be pushed forward. It was forward just enough to be pinched in between the header tube and the starter. I think this was probably the biggest part of the issue. I also loosened up the dust cover bolts and kinda wedged the starter over as i tightened it up. Ill hope to be firing up the new motor in a couple weeks and will update again if I have any further issues. I hope this fiasco helps another newbie in his quest to bring an old Mopar back to life.
So I was able to get the mini starter lined up and everything appears that it will work now. Turns out that it was just an alignment/my fault issue. I had previously modified the z-bar to work with Dougs headers and part of the weld cracked causing the bottom of the z-bar to be pushed forward. It was forward just enough to be pinched in between the header tube and the starter. I think this was probably the biggest part of the issue. I also loosened up the dust cover bolts and kinda wedged the starter over as i tightened it up. Ill hope to be firing up the new motor in a couple weeks and will update again if I have any further issues. I hope this fiasco helps another newbie in his quest to bring an old Mopar back to life.
Thanks for the update, I figured it was just an alignment issue. I am glad you figured it out. On a side note I hate headers & having to alter anything because of them! To me just not worth the hassle, I prefer the look of stock manifolds & stock exhaust systems. Just my 2 bits. Good luck with your project MD68.
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