Need help with converter

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From Randy's Ring and Pinion website-> Calculator.
3:91 ratio: 26" tall tire @ 60 MPH Engine RPM 3000
28" tall tire @ 60 MPH Engine RPM 2900
 
I dont know what to do about the stall numbers. I think i gonna ask turbo action too.
 
If you're just looking for a stock replacement flex plate (not needing some expensive TCI or other race/SFI approved unit) attached are diagrams of the different factory flex plates. There are two sizes, and note the bolt pattern(to your crank) of each. By the way, I was wrong on the ring gear size of the 11" 904 converter. It will be a narrow(1/2" wide)gear.
 

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If you're just looking for a stock replacement flex plate (not needing some expensive TCI or other race/SFI approved unit) attached are diagrams of the different factory flex plates. There are two sizes, and note the bolt pattern(to your crank) of each. By the way, I was wrong on the ring gear size of the 11" 904 converter. It will be a narrow(1/2" wide)gear.
Thanks :thumbsup:
 
I have a 9.5 inch PTC converter. I had to buy new bolts and drill bigger holes in my flexplate. The stock bolts are so small in comparison. No issues so far and I don't expect any. This is my first "performance" converter but it's only a 2800 stall. I called PTC and told them what I have and they spec'd it out. It drives like stock on the street but it does take more RPM to power brake it. I'm happy.
View attachment 1715156028
Whats your combo?
 
Whats your combo?

5.9 magnum. KB107 pistons, Hughes EQ iron ram heads, Hughes .539/.549 lift 218/222 duration @.050, RPM air gap, headers, and a 625 cfm carb for now. In a 70 dart with a 727 and 3.55 rear.
 
5.9 magnum. KB107 pistons, Hughes EQ iron ram heads, Hughes .539/.549 lift 218/222 duration @.050, RPM air gap, headers, and a 625 cfm carb for now. In a 70 dart with a 727 and 3.55 rear.
Ok, thats another story.
 
As others have mentioned with your BASICALLY STOCK ENGINE(even after the upgrades you're going to do) a converter with a stall of 2500 will be more than adequate. There are lots of good converter builders and before you make your choice, email them telling them what you've told us. See what they recommend for your engine combination, diff ratio and tire size. Also make sure you tell them what your main driving objective is. Something that all should keep in mind is: just because my converter has a stall speed matched properly to my car, doesn't mean a damn thing in another car unless it's identical in everyway to my car.
Some other converter companies you can check out: Hughes, ATI, T.C.S. and others. Just google these companies and then go to their websites and see what they say.
Save time and money: "Do it right - ONCE"
 
I gave all the info about my car to PTC, Turboaction, and Edge Converters before i started this thread. Only PTC answered my Email. I started this thread because i wanted some info about drilling or not driling LA318 flexplates. Turboaction seems interesting because they have converters in 5/16 bolt size. Everybody jumped on the stallnumbers... thats ok. I think i need to phone them.
 
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OK, it looks like there are two FABO fractions about the possible stall with a new converter for a mostly stock LA 318, as you've seen in this thread. Now i have some news from different converter companys. Something must have change over the past 30 years in converter technics as others already said here. This companys all got the same specs about my car. PTC Performance Torque Converters recommends: 9.5 inch with about 3000 stall. Paul from Turbo Action on the phone: 19802ST 10 inch Converter with about 3000 stall. Cope Racing would sell me a 11 inch PTC Converter with 2800-3000 stall. Andre from Edge Race Converters on the phone: I could go with his mild street edge converter with about 2400-2600 stall or take the better custom street edge converter with a stall of 2800. The 2800 would also do well in normal street and highway driving and would be stronger if i do a cam change in the future. I think i will go with the 2800 Edge converter. I dont think all the pros are wrong with the high stall numbers. Thanks to all in this thread. its good to have different oppinions. it may help others.
 
When choosing convertors I prefer to go with the smaller diameter convertor that gives you the stall you want.

i.e. 11" convertor with 3k stall vs. 10" with 3k stall. Go with the 10"
 
back to your question.I have drilled the holes on my flex plates.
..and i went to 29/64's just to make the install easy.
 
I ran a TurboAction-2800 behind a 1973 teener, stock long-block with TTIs and a TQ, small-port c.i. intake, in a 68 Barracuda at 3650 pounds, with a 9.73 starter gear; (2.74x355)( this about same as 3.91x2.45=9.58), and it was soooooo much fun. Oh yeah I put some valve springs on it and shifted it at 5500 now and then.
I ran it in winters only and no cooler at all for 5 winters, then installed it in a D-100 with factory cooler for 4-seasons use.
Nice wind up on the start-line, then exploded into acceleration,lol.
I say exploded,tongue in cheek,lol. But that combo was a favorite of mine.
 
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Sounds good! That is what i want in my car too.:steering:
 
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with 3.91s I'm surprised you would call her a dog off the line.
But I can almost guarantee that with a 2800 and a 4bbl, and adequate ignition timing, the takeoff performance increase might be approaching 48% .
Take a look at Toolmans graph.
IIRC the stock stall is about 1750, and on the graph this looks like ~130hp. Now climb up to 2800, and there it is about 185hp.Now add a little to the 130/2bbl for headers,say 135hp.And add a little to the 185 for the 4bbl and headers , say 200hp.
And 200/135=Plus 48%
Put some valve springs on her and try shifting the 1-2 at up to 5300. I think I used 360-2bbl springs with some shimming,maybe .062s, I can't recall exactly. But that was good to over 5500; what a hoot!.
 
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Maybe its not a dog off the line, but its the point where i want to change for the better. + 48 percent should be very good :thumbsup:
 
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