Need help with Iginition switch/starter issues

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dustermaniac

dustermaniac

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So I was having issues with my starter not cranking over when I turned the key. I installed a button to the relay and was able to get the starter to crank over when I turned the key to "on" position and hit the button. This worked well for about a year and a half until it started to "click" once again. So I went yesterday and bought a new starter relay and replaced the relay and now I cannot get the car to crank with the button or the key. If I cross over the posts on the regulator with a screwdriver and have the key switch in the "on" position the car will fire up. Also I have noticed when I turn the key to the "on" position my tachometer needle pegs out at 5000 RPM's without the engine running. If I wiggle the key switch the needle on the tach will go back to zero, but it is staying at 5000 RPM's before I start the car. After I have the car running the tach is back @ about 750-800 RPM's at idle. Any suggestions on what I can do to resolve this issue would help. The engine wiring harness has been replaced with one from another car and has no other obvious issues. I believe the wiring on the relay is correct as I replaced the wires from where they were previously connected and the car was cranking over fine before the clicking started. Battery is new as well as the starter.
 
It would be helpful to know what year/ model, whether it's stick/ auto, or if stick, if it has the "clutch safety" switch.

Generally, One of the small push--on connections should be hot with the key in crank. You can easily test this with a light. If not, the several places to check are:

Bad connection in the bulkhead connector, bad connection at the ignition switch, bad ignition switch, or a broken wire in between

Now, to make the relay work, you have three options:

If there two small push on connectors, you either have an auto, or a clutch safety switch. Now that you have determined which wire is hot "in crank," this second push-on connector should be grounded when the auto is in park or neutral, or when the clutch is pushed in.

To test, hook a clip lead from this second relay terminal to ground and see if it cranks. If so, you have a bad neutral safety switch, or the wiring to it, ditto if clutch

If you only have ONE small push on, you have an earlier stick with no clutch safety switch. This relay should click if you jumper the battery connector to this small push on terminal on the relay

If you can hear the relay click and it won't crank, it's either the relay or a starter problem, or related wiring. If jumpering across the main batt. connector to the other exposed screw connection causes the starter to operate, then its in the relay or wiring previously mentioned.
 
73 Duster 340, Auto. I have the relay with the two push on connectors, One of the connectors has a molded plug which will only allow it to be connected to the ground on the relay. the other is a field/solenoid wire I believe. I will do the tests you have indicated tomorrow to try to determine if it is a ground or a wiring or neutral safety switch issue. the transmission was recently replaced with a TCI Streetfighter 904 so I am thinking that the neutral safety switch should be good, but you never know. I will update tomorrow, thanks for the help and fast response!!!! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
 
I will check to see what you find out,as I was having the same problem with my car again today(clicking when trying to start).I pulled my starter,to find out the little stud encased in plastic for the solenoid had broken free causing one of the inside wires to break.I replaced the starter and is working fine so far.Good luck.
 
I just dealt with my neighbor and his 86 work van. He wanted the relay or something other than the starter to be the problem. 5 days, 5 phone calls, 1 relay, and finally 1 starter fixed it.
 
I am having the same problem. Car was running fine and out of the blue. It won't start at the key. It will turn on the accesories but wont turn the starter. I am able to remote star it at the relay. I tryed a different starter relay and made no difference. I replaced the key switch and wire from switch down the column. I switched out ballast resistor thinking that could be it. nothing. I am getting juice from the key to the bulkhead. i will try the test on the nuetral safety switch tomorrow. Although it was brand new, put in 2 weeks ago. and the wire to nuetral safety switch is new. This is a 72 340 Duster automatic. seems to be a common problem. I will post what it ends up being, hopefully it will help other people.
 
On the starter relay... most common color of the 2 small signal wires are yellow and brown.
Yellow is 12 volt start signal from ignition switch. A volt meter or simple test light there should show 12 volts every time the switch is turned to the start position.
Brown is the ground signal or path supplied by the neutral safety switch. An ohm meter should should very near zero resistance. If all of that checks OK the relay should click closed and send 12 volts on the larger wire going to the starter with every turn of the switch to start position. Hope this helps
 
The fact that you have to wiggle your key to get the tach to drop back down and that you had to bypass the key by using a push button start kind of makes me think maybe your looking at an ignition or the wiring in your column as being the culprit.

also , you might want to check the connection on the drivers side of your gauge cluster.

check your column ground.

check fuses and all the basic stuff.

check to make sure the relays are goo and what not.

I would think your start is good considering you can get it to fire up.

so you are probably looking at the problem being from the relay back.
 
highwaystar said:
Well I found out mine started when grounded starter relay. Must be in nuetral safety switch or wiring. what to test next?
Click to expand...

You really should start your own thread on one of these deals, it makes things hard to follow if they "get long."

If you think it's the wiring/ neutral switch, "there ain't much left."

What I'd do next is jack 'er up and pull the neutral switch connector. Find something (small screw?) to connect into the wire connector and ground it. Try it and if it cranks, must be the switch. If not, must be the wire.

If it's the wire, I'd suspect the connection right AT the wire/ connector
 
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