Need input on my stroker head, cam, manifold and oiling

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VIZ

VIZ

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The basics are 1969 block 60 over 11.8 probe pistons 4" forged crank H beam rods. Ok now the heads are the B1BA heads and the reason is I am running a vintage srt- 12 cross ram. 1st question is I want a solid roller and I am going to have T&D rockers which oil through the pushrod. I have heard that takes to much oil from the crank, low oil pressure at idle. Anyways what is the proper oil mods for this? 2nd I talked to Brian at IMM engines, the one that did the 621 hp stroker in the oct. Car craft mag. He said the way you get these heads to flow is plug pushrod hole w/aluminum port the hell out of them run the offset rocker redrill pushrod hole. Ta da, a square port w2 anyone know any thing about this? Ok 3rd the cam. I know this manifold can really make a motor a Pig if the cam is wrong. How do I go about a cam. This I feel has to be someone that knows cross rams for one. Comp cams referred me to the cam selection by rpm I wanted to shift at and the stall I had. Ok guys school me.
 
Car,weight?What brand of converter?gears?Obviously,you want somthing serious.We need info.Otherwise a rv cam and a sp2p intake.Details matter.
 
Don't worry about the oiling issue. It's B.S.

Brians thinking is solid, expensive and worh the max effort venue.

Comp cams RPM cam shaft selection is a good way to go about it. But the problem is when people mis-match parts not knowing any better. IF you going to use the above parts, then I would say it safe to say that your not building a mild 450 hp engine.

That intake is a 3 - 7 thousnad RPM intake? IMO, from the looks of what is posted, I would be looking at cams that have a power band starting at 3500.
 
Interesting about the porting. My heads (which I tried to get flowed but the flow guy at the local engine shop wouldn't show up at work) have some tubing inserts visible on the intake side that were probably put in after what Brian at IMM described.
 
VIZ said:
The basics are 1969 block 60 over 11.8 probe pistons 4" forged crank H beam rods. Ok now the heads are the B1BA heads and the reason is I am running a vintage srt- 12 cross ram. 1st question is I want a solid roller and I am going to have T&D rockers which oil through the pushrod. I have heard that takes to much oil from the crank, low oil pressure at idle. Anyways what is the proper oil mods for this? 2nd I talked to Brian at IMM engines, the one that did the 621 hp stroker in the oct. Car craft mag. He said the way you get these heads to flow is plug pushrod hole w/aluminum port the hell out of them run the offset rocker redrill pushrod hole. Ta da, a square port w2 anyone know any thing about this? Ok 3rd the cam. I know this manifold can really make a motor a Pig if the cam is wrong. How do I go about a cam. This I feel has to be someone that knows cross rams for one. Comp cams referred me to the cam selection by rpm I wanted to shift at and the stall I had. Ok guys school me.
Click to expand...

You don't HAVE to plug the pushrod holes, but it helps. Do you have any good pics of the intake?
 
Right on with the response when I get home tonight I will get pics posted of the manifold
Also as for the details: 1968 dart 3580lbs A1 8" 4200( seems very efficient 6100 at all shifts andat the line)A1 also freshened up the trans though not their valvebody. 8 3/4 4:88 spool full cal tracs in the rear, front stock w/ MP race torsion bars and 90/10's
 
Here is some more info 28" tire 3" exhaust to muff then2 1/2 out to the back to clear modified stock gas tank. I have cut outs for the track. Also 1 7/8 hedman hustlers headers. Today I will get the dish on my pistons. If I want a cam that will have some ability to idle on the street(enough vacuum for the huge open pletum) but enough over lap to run pump gas around town, what are your cam suggestions?
 
What is the power goal of this engine? What rpm does it trap at now? Honestly, until the headsa are done and flowed, ignore picking a camshaft.
 
My $.02 - that block has no business as part of your build. I'd at least 1/2 fill it, plus caps, etc. Also, I think that's an aggressive goal for that intake. A tunnel ram or big modern single plane will be easier to tune and less affected by air.
The BA heads will need a lot of porting to get there, and you'll really need to spin it so keep the rotating assembly light. If you havent bought them, the MC version would be a better choice and require less work, but you'd have to lose the cross ram. If horsepower is the goal, you'll spend four figures more just to keep that intake. Regardless of my comments, you can't really think about a cam until you have the heads and intake tract ready. Once the heads are done and flowed, you can start thinking about a cam.
 
what does block fill do to the cooling? Half fill vs full. I still want to take it to cruises at shows and hot lap at the track and be cool.
 
sorry pic took so long.


GetAttachment.aspx
 
Here are shaddy dell flow# for their cnc B1BA's

LIFT----AS CAST B1-BA-------PORTED B1-BA
.100”--------69.0/N/A-----------------69.0/58.2
.200”--------120.4/100.8--------------134.6/102.3
.300”--------169.0/136.9--------------192.5/143.2
.400”--------201.8/160.4--------------238.8/173.2
.450”--------213.9/164.6--------------262.2/183.9
.500”--------226.0/168.0--------------275.7/191.5
.550”--------233.9/171.8--------------282.9/201.1
.600”--------239.4/171.8--------------296.7/207.0
.650”--------243.2/171.8--------------307.0/213.2
.700”--------245.0/171.8--------------313.9/216.7

All #’s at 28” of water
No flow tube on exhaust ports
Both Heads used 2.08”/1.60” Ferrea 6000 Series Stainless Valves
SPEC heads had proprietary back cut angle on intake valves.
B1-BA Drag Race head had no back cut angles.

For more information about Brodix B1-BA series cylinder heads [email protected]

Honestly I am now learning what it takes to go to the next power range. All your help is appreciated.
 
Again, just my opinion with regard to upgrading and specs...
A 1/2 fill will strengthen the cylinder walls up to where they side loading will be the hardest. With the power levels you want, that block is going to move around, expecially in the cylinder walls. Yes, it reduces water cooling a slight bit, but you run an oil cooler and you won't notice temps being an issue. Has it been sonic tested yet? If any spot on the thrusts are thinner than .200 or on the pin axis are thinner than .150, I'd just buy a new better one. You can't make 700hp naturally aspirated, reliably, with ability to drive on the street, using obsolete stitched together blocks. Anyone who says they can IMO is playing you and taking your money. Yes, a running engine can happen. Yes, it will make power. But it will be maxxed out, it will be expensive to get ready, and it won't make it for long. In regard to bracket racing/hot laps, that's another reason why I say get a better block. The best bracket racers I know don't open thier hood once eliminations start. They dont have to. It's about oil and trans temps, and concentrating on the lights. You don't need to be worrying about the engine's foundation. So I say get something with thicker walls and decks, priority oiling, and engineered for and supplied with 4-bolt mains. It will be within $1000 or less of fully outfitting a factory block to live at 700hp and a new block will have life left for refreshing/rebuilding. With regard to cruises... The cam required to make that power will not have springs for low rpm cruising and vacuum pumps are not rated by life over miles... Idling and low rpm kill heavy springs, and the cam you'll need will need big springs. Plus the gas ports in the pistons get all filled up with carbon when it idles. You may want to re-think and make a decision to build either a race engine, or a street engine. Double duty at that hp goal is not conducive to compromise. If you want a streetable 700hp, build a forced induction LA, or build a NA big(540) B wedge big block.

I'll also add... I don't believe 315cfm is going to be enough if you want this thing to idle and drive around town. That's why I was thinking the MCs and a real intake. You may also want to talk to Jeff at Modern Cylinder Head. He may be able to get more from the BAs.
 
what do you think realistic hp goal for the str-12 manifold. I want a vintage theme for my car, with a engine specifically built for this manifold I do already have the B1BA heads.
 
VIZ said:
what do you think realistic hp goal for the str-12 manifold. I want a vintage theme for my car, with a engine specifically built for this manifold I do already have the B1BA heads.
Click to expand...

The only way you will know the answer to this is to dyno the engine with that intake.
 
ou812 said:
You don't HAVE to plug the pushrod holes, but it helps. Do you have any good pics of the intake?
Click to expand...

What would be the difference in flow moving the push rods be and cost. How much significant would the extra work be worth?
 
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