Need Power Steering Shaft

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Reddartowner

Reddartowner

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I need a power steering shaft for my son's '68 Dart. Can't trade my manual shaft as its still in the car. Will probably do the conversion over the Christmas break, so scouting parts now. Also need a CHEAP p/s box for a core.

Thanks.
 
Just tap the shaft in two inches and don't worry about it. Only part you need to buy is a small spline coupler. I have that. $20 plus the ride. PM me if you're interested.
 
Reddartowner said:
Doesn't that defeat the "controlled collapse" function of the steering column in a crash??
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Yes it does to a degree. Please dont assume from that post that you could just tap the shaft from the bottom up after the steering gear is removed. Doing that would wreck the signal switch and other parts in the top of the column.
You'll need to take the columnapart down to the bare shaft to properly alter its length. More like 3 inches difference in amnual and power steering gearboxes. You probably wont need a different spline in the lower end of the box coupling either unless you put a later model power steering gear in it, which would also require a different pitman arm, center link, and idler arm.
Installing the correct year model steering gear is simple, just more difficult to find than the later.
If you could find someone parting a later model, get the entire steering.
That would consist of column shaft with box coupling, steering gear, pitman arm, center link, idler arm.
 
The plastic shear pins on my car are busted (by the previous owner who is an idiot) so there is some extra "play" in the steering wheel...so I would avoid columns like that.

I am taking my engine out shortly, so I will probably try to make my own with some plastic casting resin...to tighten things back up.

Paul
 
Those plastic shear pins are there to keep the shaft from sliding around when being handled on the assembly line...they have zero effect on the columns ability to collapse or stay stable. Take one of these columns apart to see what I'm talking about.
Shortening the shaft to go from manual to power is no problem. There is PLENTY of room in there. Keep in mind that back in the day, when these cars were in normal service, the accepted proceedure when R&Ring steering boxes was to knock the roll pin out of the coupler, and then tap the shaft backwards into the column. Once the new box was in place, the shaft would get tapped back out and everything was good to go. This was done tens of thousands of times and nobody ever had an issue. I worked on these cars in the 70's and 80's and never thought twice about lenghtening or shortening column shafts...usually going from power to manual. It wasn't until the "Comic Book Guy's" got involved that it became taboo.
 
Tapping the shaft back. Yes I have seen this done before . But I would not recommend doing it. If you do. Use a long pointed acorn nut to hold the steering wheel on. It will be less painful.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Tapping the shaft back. Yes I have seen this done before . But I would not recommend doing it. If you do. Use a long pointed acorn nut to hold the steering wheel on. It will be less painful.
Click to expand...

See...this is what I'm talking about. Just measured two columns..power/manual. Difference is 2.75 inches. Obviously certain death if you hit a pothole. I would just shorten up the shaft, and then shoot myself in the head to avoid all the suffering of being impaled by the steering column lunging itself into my chest....or wait. I could just slide the seat back a notch and all would be equal! In other words, unless you drive around with the seat in its most forward position, that 2.75 inches is meaningless.
 
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