Need Recommendation for Drum to Disc for 65 Dart GT

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zephyr

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I just bought a stock 65 GT convertible and the brakes are scary at freeway speeds. Is there a consensus on a kit that is both easy to install and affordable? I have no desire to change wheel sizes, I am going to keep my stock wheel covers and keep the car as original looking as possible. Thanks.
 
my money would be on a scarebird kit
for about 500 bucks you get a set of bracket that replace your drum mounting plates
a spacer ring to center the disc on the spindle
a set of discs drilled to for 5 on 4 wheels
a set of calipers that mounts to those brackets
a new pair of brake hoses and thats it
the ONLY thing need is longer wheel lugs
(and you can piece this together by ordering the discs, calipers and hoses off rockauto and probly get it for half the cost)

now, there are other options available but they will cost more, move your wheels out further (the scarebird kit only ads about 1/4 inch to overall track) and may need different wheels
 
I'm not sure if they make them for your application, but I used Wilwoods to swap out my old drum brakes and love them.

10247442_10204960777208567_5789213035223384309_n.jpg
 
Thank you diymirage.

I went to Rockauto but they don't offer customer service by phone so I don't know enough to order the parts. Has anyone, by chance, compiled a list of part numbers with what is needed?
 
I just got a set of rebuilt kelsey hayes stock disc set up from Jim V and then a double reservoir and prop valve from the Ram Man and lines from Fine Lines......
 
I have the scarebird set on my 63. When you buy the caliper brackets they send you a list of parts you need to buy. As with almost all disk brake kits you need atleast 14"rims
 
krazykuda said:
I just got a set of rebuilt kelsey hayes stock disc set up from Jim V and then a double reservoir and prop valve from the Ram Man and lines from Fine Lines......
Click to expand...

pretty hard to beat the stock stuff...they are made for your car.
 
VanceC said:
I have no desire to change wheel sizes, I am going to keep my stock wheel covers and keep the car as original looking as possible. Thanks.
Click to expand...

If your current wheels are the stock 13 inches and you have the stock wheel covers, there are no kits available that will let you keep your original wheels. Depending on what you buy, you will need at a minimum 14 inch rims and find some wheel covers (or dog dishes) to fit those wheels. Some conversions need 15 in wheels as well!
 
Hi, all.
Jim V. hemi71x here.
Saw this posting.
I don't have any more 65-72, factory disc brake set up's that i rebuilt, and then put up for sale.
Haven't done a set, in two years, now.
Parts like that have long dried up in my area, to find, and then purchase, for me to rebuild.
My last set was from a private party ad, in the local, Sacramento Craigslist.
Right now i have Rebuilt calipers for sale, and some small parts, but that's about it, these days.
 
65 Dartman said:
If your current wheels are the stock 13 inches and you have the stock wheel covers, there are no kits available that will let you keep your original wheels. Depending on what you buy, you will need at a minimum 14 inch rims and find some wheel covers (or dog dishes) to fit those wheels. Some conversions need 15 in wheels as well!
Click to expand...
Oh wow. It just couldn't be easy, right? So I'm in for wheels and tires too, yeah?
 
hemi71x said:
Hi, all.
Jim V. hemi71x here.
Saw this posting.
I don't have any more 65-72, factory disc brake set up's that i rebuilt, and then put up for sale.
Haven't done a set, in two years, now.
Parts like that have long dried up in my area, to find, and then purchase, for me to rebuild.
My last set was from a private party ad, in the local, Sacramento Craigslist.
Right now i have Rebuilt calipers for sale, and some small parts, but that's about it, these days.
Click to expand...
Thanks Jim.
 
diymirage said:
my money would be on a scarebird kit
for about 500 bucks you get a set of bracket that replace your drum mounting plates
a spacer ring to center the disc on the spindle
a set of discs drilled to for 5 on 4 wheels
a set of calipers that mounts to those brackets
a new pair of brake hoses and thats it
the ONLY thing need is longer wheel lugs
(and you can piece this together by ordering the discs, calipers and hoses off rockauto and probly get it for half the cost)

now, there are other options available but they will cost more, move your wheels out further (the scarebird kit only ads about 1/4 inch to overall track) and may need different wheels
Click to expand...

I have used the scarebird setup on two cars now. The beauty of this kit is that the front suspension doesn't have to be torn down.
 
google "scarebird Abodyjoe"
that will give you a link to a word file with part numbers and aplications in it


Mopar “A” body 1965-72 10”, 1960-72 9” Front Disc brake conversion instructions

1. Crack front wheel nuts loose, chock up rear wheels. Jack up front end of car, support outer control arms with jackstands. Remove front wheels, drum/hub assembly. Put a few drops of penetrant oil on brakeline nuts where they screw into rubber lines.

2. Take drum/hub assembly and remove studs. Best ways to do this is with a swedge cutter and press, or take a center punch the head from the inside. Then pilot drill about ½” deep, then drill off head with 5/8” diameter bit. Clean off wheel surface and register with wire wheel or beadblaster. Replace studs with ¼” longer or more studs, such as NAPA #641-1563 (Dorman 610-156) (10”) or #641-1560 (9”)

3. Disconnect brake flexible line at frame by unscrewing hardline nut with flare wrench, then removing clip. Undo and remove drum retaining bolts. Remove drum backing plate, hose and all drum hardware in one assembly. Clean off spindle assembly well.

4. Place adapter plate over spindle with caliper bolt retaining nut welds facing inward for the Ten’s, outward for the Nines and caliper forward of the axle. Make sure no dirt is lodged between spindle and plate. Note placement of the bolts for the Ten’s: rearward bolt uses a supplied jam nut, while the forward bolt is reversed. A drop of Locktite is recommended on the jam nut.
clip_image002.jpg
clip_image004.jpg


5. Check rotor: should be 10” in diameter and 2” tall. Drill out wheel stud holes with pattern supplied. Cut out pattern with scissors, then spray with light oil or WD-40 and lay on rotor. Lightly punch for holes, then remove and punch harder. Drill out holes ½” diameter. Verify that rotor lays flat against hub by fitting rotor backwards onto hub. If the stud knurls interfere with rotor, countersink stud holes in rotor to clear knurls. Open pilot hole of rotor in lathe to just fit outside of centering ring.

6. Clean and repack wheel bearings. Install new seal. Assemble hub onto spindle, tighten outer nut to spec, then secure with keeper, new cotter pin and dustcap. Install center ring on hub.

7. Place rotor onto hub, and run two or three lugnuts down finger tight to retain rotor. Wipe down rotor with alcohol, lacquer thinner or other cleaner. Wash hands! Rotor must be squeaky clean.

8. Test fit caliper onto bracket. Note where casting lug interferes with spindle – remove this lug with hacksaw, cutoff wheel or grinder. If using the last two methods, make sure you do not heat up caliper too much and melt the seals. If fitting into stock drum rims, you will need to carefully grind and round off the outer edge of the calipers also. Lubricate caliper contact point of brackets. Slide assembly into caliper bracket. Make sure bleed screw faces upward- if not, reverse sides. We recommend buying semi-loaded calipers, and softest pads, like NAPA TruStop. Tighten caliper bolts to 35 foot-pounds. Check fitment and rotate rotor to check clearance. Install hose with new copper crush washers.

9. Master cylinder and proportioning valve specs are quite varied. I would recommend 1973-75 Power Dart or similar disc master cylinder for best performance match available in both power and manual flavors. Plumb in an adjustable proportioning valve in the line going to the rear cylinders, or use a disc proportioning valve

10. Bench bleed disc master cylinder. Mount MC on car, then gravity bleed entire system first to eliminate most of the air, then pump bleed and test, otherwise your distribution block may jam from a pressure imbalance.

11. Replace wheels, install lug nuts, lower car and torque nuts to spec. Test drive carefully- no hard stops, a series of smooth stops will help bed in the pads properly.

Part Application NAPA Wagner Raybestos
Rotor 1991-94 Toyota Previa front rotor w/ rear drum option

48-86174 BD125058 96174

Caliper, LH 1990 Chevy Celebrity 242-2066 L107084 RC4234

Caliper, RH 1990 Chevy Celebrity 242-2067 L107085 RC4233

Brake Hose 1979-82 Eldorado front 36959/36960 F98914/98914 BH36959/3696

Brake pads 1990 Chevy Celebrity AE7136M MX215


*Verify fit and length before buying Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC 22 July 22, 2009 Version D


Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC warrantees our product for 90 days after purchase against manufacturing defects. Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC is not responsible and held harmless for errors/damage/injury due to faulty installation or use of non-specified/inferior components or adaptation to non-OEM applications. If you do no agree to this, please send components back unused for refund. Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC reserves the right to change/delete components/applications without notice. Please do not hesitate to email us for latest specifications or technical inquiries. Contact: [email protected] Thank you.
 
diymirage said:
google "scarebird Abodyjoe"
that will give you a link to a word file with part numbers and aplications in it


Mopar “A” body 1965-72 10”, 1960-72 9” Front Disc brake conversion instructions

1. Crack front wheel nuts loose, chock up rear wheels. Jack up front end of car, support outer control arms with jackstands. Remove front wheels, drum/hub assembly. Put a few drops of penetrant oil on brakeline nuts where they screw into rubber lines.

2. Take drum/hub assembly and remove studs. Best ways to do this is with a swedge cutter and press, or take a center punch the head from the inside. Then pilot drill about ½” deep, then drill off head with 5/8” diameter bit. Clean off wheel surface and register with wire wheel or beadblaster. Replace studs with ¼” longer or more studs, such as NAPA #641-1563 (Dorman 610-156) (10”) or #641-1560 (9”)

3. Disconnect brake flexible line at frame by unscrewing hardline nut with flare wrench, then removing clip. Undo and remove drum retaining bolts. Remove drum backing plate, hose and all drum hardware in one assembly. Clean off spindle assembly well.

4. Place adapter plate over spindle with caliper bolt retaining nut welds facing inward for the Ten’s, outward for the Nines and caliper forward of the axle. Make sure no dirt is lodged between spindle and plate. Note placement of the bolts for the Ten’s: rearward bolt uses a supplied jam nut, while the forward bolt is reversed. A drop of Locktite is recommended on the jam nut.
clip_image002.jpg
clip_image004.jpg


5. Check rotor: should be 10” in diameter and 2” tall. Drill out wheel stud holes with pattern supplied. Cut out pattern with scissors, then spray with light oil or WD-40 and lay on rotor. Lightly punch for holes, then remove and punch harder. Drill out holes ½” diameter. Verify that rotor lays flat against hub by fitting rotor backwards onto hub. If the stud knurls interfere with rotor, countersink stud holes in rotor to clear knurls. Open pilot hole of rotor in lathe to just fit outside of centering ring.

6. Clean and repack wheel bearings. Install new seal. Assemble hub onto spindle, tighten outer nut to spec, then secure with keeper, new cotter pin and dustcap. Install center ring on hub.

7. Place rotor onto hub, and run two or three lugnuts down finger tight to retain rotor. Wipe down rotor with alcohol, lacquer thinner or other cleaner. Wash hands! Rotor must be squeaky clean.

8. Test fit caliper onto bracket. Note where casting lug interferes with spindle – remove this lug with hacksaw, cutoff wheel or grinder. If using the last two methods, make sure you do not heat up caliper too much and melt the seals. If fitting into stock drum rims, you will need to carefully grind and round off the outer edge of the calipers also. Lubricate caliper contact point of brackets. Slide assembly into caliper bracket. Make sure bleed screw faces upward- if not, reverse sides. We recommend buying semi-loaded calipers, and softest pads, like NAPA TruStop. Tighten caliper bolts to 35 foot-pounds. Check fitment and rotate rotor to check clearance. Install hose with new copper crush washers.

9. Master cylinder and proportioning valve specs are quite varied. I would recommend 1973-75 Power Dart or similar disc master cylinder for best performance match available in both power and manual flavors. Plumb in an adjustable proportioning valve in the line going to the rear cylinders, or use a disc proportioning valve

10. Bench bleed disc master cylinder. Mount MC on car, then gravity bleed entire system first to eliminate most of the air, then pump bleed and test, otherwise your distribution block may jam from a pressure imbalance.

11. Replace wheels, install lug nuts, lower car and torque nuts to spec. Test drive carefully- no hard stops, a series of smooth stops will help bed in the pads properly.

Part Application NAPA Wagner Raybestos
Rotor 1991-94 Toyota Previa front rotor w/ rear drum option

48-86174 BD125058 96174

Caliper, LH 1990 Chevy Celebrity 242-2066 L107084 RC4234

Caliper, RH 1990 Chevy Celebrity 242-2067 L107085 RC4233

Brake Hose 1979-82 Eldorado front 36959/36960 F98914/98914 BH36959/3696

Brake pads 1990 Chevy Celebrity AE7136M MX215


*Verify fit and length before buying Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC 22 July 22, 2009 Version D


Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC warrantees our product for 90 days after purchase against manufacturing defects. Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC is not responsible and held harmless for errors/damage/injury due to faulty installation or use of non-specified/inferior components or adaptation to non-OEM applications. If you do no agree to this, please send components back unused for refund. Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC reserves the right to change/delete components/applications without notice. Please do not hesitate to email us for latest specifications or technical inquiries. Contact: [email protected] Thank you.
Click to expand...
Really great info here, thank you very much.

I've learned a lot today with everyone's help. Unfortunately, what with having 13" wheels, I've realized that I can't afford the conversion quite yet. I've also learned that if using drum/drum system best to upgrade to a dual master cylinder. Then, I learned that I already have a dual master! Thank PO. So end of day I'll have adequate braking system, I'll continue to drive slow and careful and I keep my Dart wheel covers. I even found an extra set in the trunk. So a simple brake job is all I need for now. Thank you guys for your help. I might a been gettin ahead of myself since I just bought the car yesterday. Driving it from San Diego to LA with barely working brakes might a been a little risky, ya think?
 
I drove the **** out of my 65 Barracuda with 9's and a 340! Replace the shoes and resurface the drums. They will work but 10's are minimum in my book.
 
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