Need u joint/driveshaft Rmdations

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805moparkid

805moparkid

Slant and AFX Guy
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so i don't know much about the selection of u joints so im gonna ask u guys. im running a slant thats hopped up and not even finished being hopped up. so im looking to get 300 rwhp. im upgrading the stock 904 with a manual valve body and a complete rebuild. it gonna be snappy! also im running a 8.75 with a 741 case and 3.91 posi and 255 60 15's. its a stock weight car and daily driven raced on weekends.

what kind/size u joints/driveshaft should i go with? i am a mechanic so ive been seeing all these ford pu's with T6061 T6 aluminum drive shafts, thinking of having one cut to fit.

any input would be great!!
 
also the 8.75 i have is a 741 open case with 3.91's and a 10 spline pinion? thats kinda strange isn't it?

this was a complete diff except for axles which i got today for 50 bucks!!
 
Just went through this w/ my car. Had a 741 that I put a new clutch pack in but the original yoke was shaky. Strange actually had one of the cheaper 10-spline 1350 yokes, it actually looks kinda stock with a seal shroud. For a driveshaft I used Action Machine, they made a custom 3" aluminum with a Spicer 904-1310 trans yoke & 1350 rear with high quality Spicer solid u-joints for about $390 including shipping. Fit like a glove.
 
396 Signet said:
Just went through this w/ my car. Had a 741 that I put a new clutch pack in but the original yoke was shaky. Strange actually had one of the cheaper 10-spline 1350 yokes, it actually looks kinda stock with a seal shroud. For a driveshaft I used Action Machine, they made a custom 3" aluminum with a Spicer 904-1310 trans yoke & 1350 rear with high quality Spicer solid u-joints for about $390 including shipping. Fit like a glove.
Click to expand...

do u have a website i could look up action machine at??

and also isn't the 1350 bigger than the 7290??

do u still have the posi for the 741?

thx ed
 
I think that is way overkill for you, I use a stock cut down shaft with a solid 7260 joint up front (stock 904 slip yoke) and a 7290 out back. It's launched off a trans brake 100's of times for 12 years now without a failure.
 
http://www.actionmachineinc.com/

1350 is a bit bigger than 7290. Nice thing about the non-mopar joints is there's more selection as far as good u-joints, yokes, etc. A good 1310 should be nearly as good as a 1330 joint, they have the exact same bearing size. Don't have any posi (limited slip!) other than what's in my car.
 
Guitar Jones said:
I think that is way overkill for you, I use a stock cut down shaft with a solid 7260 joint up front (stock 904 slip yoke) and a 7290 out back. It's launched off a trans brake 100's of times for 12 years now without a failure.
Click to expand...

thats more of what i was thinking! its a stock 7.25 car that i am swapping a 8.75 into but i am also setting the axle back 2" so i have to wait and see how long it needs to be...

unless u know what the length of the 7.25 w/904 driveshaft length is and the same for a 8.75 w/904
 
IIRC we cut about .75 of an inch off the shaft when we swapped an 8.75 in place of a 7.25, but I can't find the specs again.
 
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