New fuel tank and sending unit

[Bigboy1063]

Hi guys!
A quick question…. So I replaced my 1967 Dodge Dart GT’s fuel tank with a new one. It came with a new sending unit which I installed. But, after fighting with the new install and getting everything buttoned up, I went to attach the old factory fuel gauge pigtail, and discovered that OEM is bigger that the post attachment on the new sending unit. I can’t seem to get an answer on the size I need and really don’t want to drop the tank again!! I was thinking about just cutting off the old pigtail and taking it somewhere to see if I can find something a little smaller to install. Any ideas before I start cutting stuff if anyone know if there’s a common size for these new sending units gauges pigtail posts? Thanks!!!

 

[Lift&Move]

That's what we did on my brother's 69 Swinger recently.
Cut off the 90 degree push-on connector, and installed an eyelet with a nut, worked perfectly!

 

[Bigboy1063]

That's what we did on my brother's 69 Swinger recently.
Cut off the 90 degree push-on connector, and installed an eyelet with a nut, worked perfectly!

Okay, great idea . Until you mentioned that, I wasn’t thinking that it was threaded, but you’re right, that’s how it was attached to the unit itself, duh! Great idea! Thank you!!!!

 

[Lift&Move]

His replacement sending unit required a 4mm nut if I remember correctly.

 

[67Dart273]

You will find that the BIG problem with the sending unit is lack of accuracy. Some guys have bought either the original or a copy of "meter match" It's an electronic circuit that can be used to adjust (scale) the fuel gauge reading so that it's more accurate

 

[Bigboy1063]

You will find that the BIG problem with the sending unit is lack of accuracy. Some guys have bought either the original or a copy of "meter match" It's an electronic circuit that can be used to adjust (scale) the fuel gauge reading so that it's more accurate

That’s good to know! I’ve just been removing and replacing stuff after 50 years of sitting around (my first car). I’ve just gotten it running and enough fuel in it to keep it running. I haven’t driven it yet, or added enough fuel to see if it even registers on the gauge. I’ll definitely take your advice, if that becomes an issue! Thanks for the advice!

 

[Dana67Dart]

You can easily replace the sender WITHOUT dropping the fuel tank.

Jack up the rear of the car, support it on Jack stands underneath the spring hangers or other suitable jacking point.

Then let the rear end drop and you have clear and easy access.

Also there is a grounding strap that goes between the sender outlet tube and the hard line on the body. Without it the gauge will not work.

 

[RedFish]

Chrysler used #10 threaded contact posts on most everything. Ford and all others used #8. That one is really available. The #10 90° booted push on is about imposible to find. Parts yard had been my source for years. I purchased several noise suppression caps from rally inst' panels for their terminals alone. If I know the tank is nearly empty I'll put a stand under only 1 side (typically left).

 

[cudamark]

If the plastic part of that connector isn't totally petrified, you can sometimes squeeze it to tighten that connection.

 

[Bigboy1063]

If the plastic part of that connector isn't totally petrified, you can sometimes squeeze it to tighten that connection.

Good idea! I was actually thinking about doing just that, but was thinking about a plan B, if I destroyed it. Got a lot of great ideas, so I’ll try your suggestion next! Thank you!

 

[Dana67Dart]

The new sender likely has a nut on it that MAY be able to be removed. What I found was with the nut on the terminal would not go on.

Make sure the nut is not holding the insulator to the sender

Look at post #2

Product Review: A100 Fuel Sender For 67 Dart