New motor blowing oil on headers

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cody72dart said:
Thanks for all the info everyone! Here are some pics of my balancer in relation to timing cover. Im pretty confident its not seated all the way.
My carb is a 950 XP and there is no where to hook up a PCV system. Im running an Edelbrock supper victor intake which also has no vaccum ports. Is there another option for crankcase ventilation? I looked into vacuum pumps but I'm having a hard time finding any kind of mounting brankets.
As far as the sealer around the crank and balancer, what type of sealer should I use?
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Also you can always drill the back of the intake for a PCV port if you need too
 
From your pics it looks okay. Dumb question. Is the seal in the timing chain cover where the balancer goes in? Is it ripped? Also at the corners of the oil pan where one bolt goes into the timing chain cover did you use silicone there. If your motor has lots of blow by it will find every crevice.
 
cody72dart said:
I am running a Moroso aluminum underdrive crank pulley. It is advertised that it may have to be machined to achieve proper pulley alignment, which I had to do. So unfortunately, I dont have a factory crank pulley to compare to.
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Just to further the discussion, since you had the pully machined,
It could be possibe to have it re machined since the damper is not all the way in?
 
Don't worry about the PCV right now. I think you'll have to drill and tap a pipe thead port into the manifold to hook up the PCV valve. Or check the back side of the carb base plate, there might already be a hole there that is plugged. Never seen a Holley 950 XP up close, so I'm just guessing. A big oil leak like you have is quite obviously a mis-installed gasket, seal, or mechanical problem. Why not clean everything up and run it again? You ought to be able to see it leaking a little at idle if it's as bad as it sounds.
 
Bob is right, do a leak down test on it. Then you'll know where you're at. When I assemble my engines I leave the bolts on the timing cover loose and install the damper. After the damper is fully seated and torqued I then tighten the timing cover bolts.

IMO if your rings weren't seated by the time you drove it the first time they never will seal. If you have room under the hood for a carb spacer you could drill and tap it for the PCV. On the dyno my 434 small block made 13 hp more with a 1" Super Sucker spacer and 3 more hp with the pcv valve hooked up.
 
So in these cases I just give my experience. Well the first time started the 318 that came with the Duster ( of course after pulling the motor and transmission and resealing and repainting them like I always do with a new to me, so I'm not rolling under oil and Greece that hasn't been cleaned up for the last 50 years) I used the 90-degree adapter that came with the motor and where it's sealed to the motor leaking oil and gushing out the way worse then what you're talking about but again a possible spot. This totally sounds like it's coming from the front not from under the passenger side header as you seemed to describe at first? As far as fitting the dampener- my experience with an aftermarket one on my new 410 Stroker - it wouldn't go on ! So I thought maybe a llittle bit of heat would expand it just that ity bit I needed? Lucky me the wife was cooking the thanksgiving turkey and the oven was already pre heated ! :thumbsup: well the wife sees me opening the oven and says - "what are you doing?!" Who me ? I'm warming up my harmonic balancer:D NOT IN MY OVEN YOUR NOT!!!:realcrazy: not to be discouraged- overcome and adapt - I went to my stove - the bbq!! And heated it up a bit:drama:
it worked!:icon_fU:
when I posted my results I thought everyone on the forum would be mad I almost messed up the turkey? Come to find out your not supposed to cook your harmonic balancer:BangHead:
 
My only regret is I didn't use the microwave, it would have made things happen faster... :BangHead:
 
o1heavy said:
Was this hotrod ever fixed??????
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Yes it fixed. On the oil pan gasket there are two nipples that stick through the oil pan. My pan has the holes but my gasket didn't have the nipples. Somehow i missed that durring assembly. Oil was blowing out if those two hole only under a load. I was able to squeeze some rtv silicone in the holes...problem solved.
 
cody72dart said:
Yes it fixed. On the oil pan gasket there are two nipples that stick through the oil pan. My pan has the holes but my gasket didn't have the nipples. Somehow i missed that durring assembly. Oil was blowing out if those two hole only under a load. I was able to squeeze some rtv silicone in the holes...problem solved.
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the Balencer was not machined
When install
 
o1heavy said:
the Balencer was not machined
When install[/QUOTE

I did have the balancer honed to fit the crank better. Turns out the balancer was seated all the way fron the get go...it was just hard to get on. After having it honed it went on easier but not any further
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j par said:
So I thought maybe a llittle bit of heat would expand it just that ity bit I needed? Lucky me the wife was cooking the thanksgiving turkey and the oven was already pre heated ! :thumbsup: well the wife sees me opening the oven and says - "what are you doing?!" Who me ? I'm warming up my harmonic balancer:D NOT IN MY OVEN YOUR NOT!!!:realcrazy: not to be discouraged- overcome and adapt - I went to my stove - the bbq!! And heated it up a bit:drama:
it worked!:icon_fU:
when I posted my results I thought everyone on the forum would be mad I almost messed up the turkey? Come to find out your not supposed to cook your harmonic balancer:BangHead:
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Thats funny.lol I have "boiled" mine in the past with good success. I figured 212 degrees is just enough to stretch it a thou and get it on a little easier. Not as radical as 300 in an oven.lol
 
You say throwing oil on headers
Sure the valve covers arent leaking on the intake side?
Were the eddies milled for compression?
Just went through this on mine, come back from a pass and oil everywhere. We milled the valve cover lips flat where they contact the intake runners to fix it. I had the heads milled to raise compression, that caused the issue.
 
cody72dart said:
Yes it fixed. On the oil pan gasket there are two nipples that stick through the oil pan. My pan has the holes but my gasket didn't have the nipples. Somehow i missed that durring assembly. Oil was blowing out if those two hole only under a load. I was able to squeeze some rtv silicone in the holes...problem solved.
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did that EXACT same thing years back, except i was able to fix mine on the engine dyno. Was a life long engine dyno customer after that, i couldn't imagine how long i would have chased that in the car!
 
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