New rotors and pads but now pulls to the left

[autoxcuda]

How's the condition of all the upper, lower and strut rod bushings?

With the car jacked up and on good jack stands, grab the tire on the edges and try to rock it side to side and up and down. Really need two people: one to rock the wheel and one to inspect each joint one by one. Need a drop light. And put your hand around each joint to feel movement (get dirty).

Repeat that by putting a second jack under the lower control arm and put some pressure on the lower control arm. Then check the upper and lower ball joints, bushings, and strut rod bushings.

If you are happy with all that, get it aligned at a good shop and have them check over the condition of the suspension too.

A master cylinder does not effect things side to side. Proportioning valve affecting is not very likely.

IIRC, some parts places are selling disc brake masters that look like drum ones with front and rear reservoirs the same size.

Rock Auto list:

A-1 CARDONE Part # 101326 Reman. w/ Reservoir
Front Disc brakes; Rear Drum brakes; Power brakes

And it looks like this: :banghead:

 

[72bluNblu]

Got to disagree, all of it is good working order. Might be a touch out of alignment, never been a big deal. Or maybe I'm just a terrible human being. Alas this is about the OP problem. Don't want to de-rail that.

I don't think your a terrible human being.

But, I'm with AJ on this one. I've NEVER had a disk brake pull that wasn't directly caused by something being wrong with the brakes or suspension. As far as your alignment being "a touch out", if you have any negative caster, or even just barely positive caster, you might notice the car wandering side to side more when you get on the brakes, making it seem like a pull. More positive caster will make the car more stable, and may fix your issue.

I have had a brake pull, and get it all the time on my Challenger. It's because of the rear drums though. Because of where I park my challenger, it gets backed out around a corner. As a result, one of the rear auto-adjusters almost always adjusts before the other side, resulting in a pull when braking until the other side adjusts and evens them out.

I understand. .........I just don't think the previous owner even put one in when they switched it to disk brakes.


:burnout:

I wouldn't worry about the prop valve too much. First, I think it's unlikely there's even one on the car. If the master cylinder is still a drum/drum, I'm going to go out on a limb and say the distribution block wasn't changed out for a prop valve.

It's also really unlikely the prop valve would cause a side to side issue. It's job is to balance the braking between the front and rear brakes, not side to side. I won't say impossible just because there are two separate lines that come off the prop valve for the front brakes.

And finally- if you want to install an adjustable proportioning valve, you don't need the fairly expensive stock proportioning (combination) valve. Just leave the stock distribution block in place and add the adjustable prop valve to balance things front to rear.

 

[pishta]

rotted hose could cause pulling. They swell and partially/completely close inside. My boss had a Ferrari F40 that had a tire lock up on him in the parking lot on his way in. he dragged that poor Pirelli for about 100 feet. Cut hose in half and it was completely swelled solid.