new to forum, resto, and safe-t-cap

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hooligann

hooligann

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i am looking at purchasing some frame repair kits for my 1969 plymouth barracuda notchback to begin my project. full on resto isn't important to me, i prefer a pro-touring approach (as much as my budget will allow for now).

my question is about "capping". anybody have experience with this company, auto rust technicians (safe t cap)? repair is not likely, replace would be ideal, but maybe approachable. the kits i looked up were the torsion mount, set and the front subframe, rear section set. solid metal is available to weld too on my car. these repairs need to be done before i can drive "muffin" and get to the stuff i enjoy. the repairs will be handled by someone more capable than i as this is my first personal project.
muffin.jpg
 
wel_ani3Tay.gif

Welcome to FABO. I'm sure your question will be answered.There was a thread about this a while back.Repair kits seem to be frowned upon around here but hang in there,your answer is on the way.8)BTW I like that avatar,"Muffin" hmmm?

wel_ani3Tay.gif
 
IMHO, Get some clean original rails and do it right once.

Those caps cost more than most sell clean rails. You best cut every lick of rust out before capping too, otherwise it's a band-aid fix.

Just my 2 cents
 
Welcome to FABO!
I concerr with the rest, it's always getter to replace with original rust free frame parts than to "cap it".
 
So where in Canada do you live or do you just like our flag:toothy10::toothy10::toothy10: ??

Any more pics of "muffin" ?

Welcome to fabo.

Grassy
 
i bought a frame cap for my old 74 cuda from auto rust techs, it was rusted under the k member area. i gave them the measurements of what i needed, and they made me a piece that fit perfect , even the bolt hole for the k member were in the perfect spot. i dont remeber exactly how long it took to get it as it was about15 years ago. i was happy with them.
 
thank you all. i am on the lookout for some replacement pieces. i do have some more pictures as well, i'll put some up later.

my daily driver is named "tom cruise" so i figured i needed a more subdued name and "muffin" seemed to fit. especially if i find a 340 or something.

i am from penticton, b.c. canada and am now by hamilton, ontario canada. bought my car at moparfest a few years ago, but am able to get the project rolling now...
 
Tried one of the auto-rust tech torsion mount kit and found it to be a crudely made piece of steel that required at least as much work to properly install as cutting out and replacing the entire crossmember. Fit and finish may have been presentable with additional grinding, welding, and finsihing... and more grinding, welding and finishing...

Grant
 
Hey Hooligann,I,m over in Oakville,Ontario.I,m with crackedback on replacing with some used rustfree frame rails.If you put up a wanted ad in the parts wanted forums,you,ll find cheaper rustfree parts.Shipping is a biotch,but if you request shipping by USPS(postal service)it,s cheaper.Good luck and welcome to FABO!Best dam A-bodie site on the net!:read2:
 
Replace bad metal with good metal......anything else is hackin, IMO
 
After having the car sandblasted I found that the torsion bar mount cross members on my '67 Barracuda were quite rotten, especially on the passenger side. I found the Safe-T-Cap site and decided to go that route so I ordered one. I was pleased with the part when it arrived, good heavy construction, nicely cut and welded up strong ... but became quite displeased when I attempted to install it. The torsion cap is a U-shaped piece, made from two pieces of steel. The left side and the bottom are cut from a single piece of metal, then appropriately bent to ninety degrees. The right side is cut to match, and welded to the "L"-shaped piece. Unfortunately, they weled it wrong. Let's see if I can describe this; they welded the edge of the bottom onto the side of the right side piece. They should have welded the bottom edge of the right side piece onto the top of the bottom piece. The way Safe-T-Cap welded it, the holes did not match up from left to right and the piece was too wide to form a snug fit on my crossmember. I had to cut it off and re-weld it.

After discovering this I decided to buy some plate steel and make my own reinforcement for the driver's side. Total cost = $18 + 2 hours of my time.
 
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