new (used) 360 for my Duster

[canadianviking]

Well, I bought the 360 I found yesterday to put in my Duster. It's a 1971 block with a Torker 340 intake and 727 trans. No idea what it may have for a cam or anything else. It's missing a few things: starter, inspection cover, alternator, fan clutch and fan, carb, trans kickdow linkage, etc. Going to have it sandblasted, painted, new gaskets, etc. Hoping it doesn't need much more. Going to keep the stock exhaust manifolds and run a 2 1/2 inch exhaust. Couple of questions:
1. is this engine (1971) internally or externally balanced?
2. should I go with a 2 bbl or 4bbl? I always thought the 4 bbl was better for performance. The guy who's doing the work for says the difference in performance between the 2bbl and 4bbl isn't that big. What would the difference be in terms of horse power. I imagine the gas mileage is much better with the 2bbl.
3. what brand and type of carb would be best (2 or 4bbl) considering I'm on a budget. I don't paln on doing any racing . I'm looking to get 250-275 HP.
I'll be painting the block the original Chrysler blue anf the tranny aluminum. I'll be replacing the aftermarket valve covers with stock ones. I'll also be removing the a/c components.
Here's a few pics




By the way, I paid $500 for the pair. Too much or good deal if it works out to be ok?

 

[needsaresto]

Not too bad a deal! I paid $350 for my 1978 360 4bbl with no trans. It was complete from carb to pan but has truck manifolds and oil pan.

Looks like a mid sump oil pan.

Go for a carter thermoquad if your on a budget.Small primaries will get better than 2 bbl mileage and huge secondaries will give lots of grunt! They can be had cheap and rebuild kits arent much. Get it tuned right and it'll make you really happy. I just love the sound of a tq at wide open throttle! BWAAAAAA!!!

Im not sure if your torker intake is square bore or spread. If it's square bore maybe an edelbrock? If it's spread the tq will work.

I think all 360's are external balance.

Look on ebay for 4 bbl linkage. I just got a set for $14!

Carefull with the sandblasting! Dont get any inside... personally I'd just get some good degreaser and pressure wash it and duct tape it up real good first.

Motor been sitting awhile? Get some diesel and remove the plugs.Pour it in each cylinder and spin the engine around on a stand. Get a preoiling tool as well. About 6 bucks.

 

[rumblefish360]

Couple of questions:
1. is this engine (1971) internally or externally balanced?
2. should I go with a 2 bbl or 4bbl? I always thought the 4 bbl was better for performance. The guy who's doing the work for says the difference in performance between the 2bbl and 4bbl isn't that big. What would the difference be in terms of horse power. I imagine the gas mileage is much better with the 2bbl.
3. what brand and type of carb would be best (2 or 4bbl) considering I'm on a budget. I don't paln on doing any racing . I'm looking to get 250-275 HP.

All 360's are externally balanced unless modified by a shop.

Go for the 4bbl. The performance difference is more than just a wide open throttle thing. I have seen some 2bb.'s rock, but for the regular street guy to all out gettin on it, 4bbl.

Gasmileage is determined by the weight of your right foot and state of tune no matter the combo of the engine. Reguardless of how many bbl.'s are used. But the 4bbl. has an advantage as long as you keep the secondarys closed.

A 650 will do you fine on that engine. Holley or Carter/Edelbrock.
IF you get a Carter style carb, go for the adjustable secondary air door.

Used 4bbl.'s can be had cheap. In example;

Last Holley I picked up was $20, $35 rebuild kit. (600 cfm - 1850 model )
Last few T-Q's I grabed ranged from $20 - $40 with a approx. same priced rebuild kit.

I have picked up several old OE AFB/AVS carbs for similar prices.

The T-Q is probably the best bet for a light street strip carb while looking for mileage and throttle response. But the two raw backs are very few new parts and tuning parts.

Once set up, there very good and fun carbs.

The Holley is the most easiest carb to get, rebuild and dial in to tune with a gazzilion parts at every corner store.

The OE Carter and Edelbrock carbs go very cheap used. They are very reliable and steady.

Your Torker 340 is a squarebore ca. That leaves the T-Q out nless you use an adapter under it making hood clearance an issue. Not to mention an extra $20 for it and 2 more gaskets with leakage potentail. IMO, skip it.

Your HP goals are modest. IF needed, rebuild the 360 to 340 specs minus the high compresion ratio and you'll meet your goal. The Torker 340 intake is not needed and you should use a dual plane intake. The factory unit is a capable peice and cheap. Sell the Torker 340.

 

[canadianviking]

Thanks for the advice. I decided to keep the Torker 340 intake and I purchased a remanufactured Edelbrock 4bbl 600 cfm carb with electric choke for 235.00 from Jeg's. The guy doing the work for me found a 2 bbl intake and carb but said it would cost almost as much for the carb, a carb kit, and 2 hours labour so I decided on the 4bbl. Since my air cleaner won't fit (2bbl), I'm going to get a fibreglass air cleaner base for the 70-71 Duster without the air snorkel as my stock exhaust manifolds don't have the heat riser on them. I'm hoping my air cleaner pie pan from my 74 air cleaner will fit. It looks like it might be the same size. Anyone know if the fibreglass air cleaner bases hold up well?
He found an alternator, alt brackets, inspection cover, tranny kickdown, and starter at a wreckers. I need to order a new radiator. Hopefully we have almost everything we need now. I'm going to convert to power steering. I understand that I will need a longer shaft. Is that correct?
Hope to have all the parts gathered soon and have it installed in 3-4 weeks. I'll keep you posted.

 

[MopaR&D]

You're going to get really crappy mileage and low-end torque with that Torker intake (which IMO is contradictory, being that it is a single plane manifold). Also, I'm not sure if you really needed a brand new carb, I think it would've been a bit more economical for you to rebuild an old ThermoQuad and put that on top of an old factory iron 4-bbl. 340/360 manifold. That's what I'm doing to my 318, whole lot cost me $75 off schmeBay. You could probably get it even cheaper if you go on a junkyard safari.

 

[rumblefish360]

The 600 carb will do him ok if the cam remains small and there will be some OK mileage if the gears aren't o steep.
The single plane should, in theroy, get good mileage on the Hwy. while in it's RPM band/range.

 

[moparsegura]

before you get you get to much money in it, pull the heads and have them checked for cracks. I have built a several 360's and used 360 heads on 318's. Almost every time at least one head is cracked, usually between valve seats. You don't want to get it all together and looking pretty if it won't run right. Plus it is a good excuse to take a look at the top-end from the inside. Just to see how everything looks. It will be worth the extra work to know for sure what ya have. 500 bucks is a pretty good price, good score on the 71 block.

 

[blackace]

IMO I would cleaning the motor get a gasket set and replace ALL the gaskets, timing chain, plugs, cap, rotor and wires. Get rid of the Torker 340 and and put a Performer intake. You can usually find one pretty cheap. And if your are replacing the timing chain you can add a mild cam or leave the one you got. I would replace it with something that has a little bit more umpf than the stock one and you can pick up one for under $100 with lifters. Call it day and put the bad boy in. The best thing is that you can get all that done in a weekend or two. If you have the time.:thumbrig:8)

 

[canadianviking]

I live in a very small town so most of the driving I will be doing is highway. I'm not mechanically inclined so I'm having a shop do the work for me. He's planning on taking the heads off and putting all new gaskets in anyway. I'll ask him about the timing chain. Thanks.