Newby to nitrous fuel system and setup

[zac_F71]

Looking for suggestions on a nitrous carb'd fuel system..

Going to try to piece together a NICE nitrous setup for my big block 71 Demon over the winter -

Have 40amp relays

Need everything..

Good electric fuel pump (what rated flow show I look for?) - am looking a Aeromotive A1000
Bypass regulator
What plate?
What solenoids?
What parts do I need for a purge kit?

Can a stock 3/8" sending unit handle an electric fuel pump?
Can the stock 3/8" steel fuel line handle EFI fuel pressure?

Yes the car is fully setup as a good street car - has a fresh 460hp 383 running a mechanical pump now.. Has many nice parts and lots of work in it. I just simply want to go faster next summer and the only problem I can see it having is the trans is a stock rebuild with a shift kit, 4.2 band lever, and a Hughes 3500 stall. Everything else should be good - the nitrous setup will be a 50% me install, 50% professional install, and professionally tuned for it..

 

[SLOPAR72]

How big of a hit are you thinking?

JW

 

[Johnny Mac]

As someone that has run nitrous in a pro bracket car, and sells these components I will be glad to weigh in, and possibly help provide some of these parts, as well as some info.

Here we go...

Your stock fuel lines need to go. If you are going to split the fuel line in the engine bay to feed your engine, and a plate kit, and electric pump, there is really no argument left for a stock steel line. Too much plumbing, and not really enough volume.

The efi question is puzzling as this is still carbed no? Not sure where you are coming with that.

As far as pumps. Yes the A1000. Is great, but keep in mind you sre either sumping the tank, or going fuel cell to accomplish this the right way.
Aeromotive - AEI - AEI11101 - FUEL PUMP

Or...stock tank with this drop in unit.

Aeromotive - AEI - AEI18688 - Phantom Stealth Fuel System

Or their a body tank

AEI18344 - Fuel Tank, 340 Stealth, 70-76 Dart/Duster

Onto regulators. You need a multi port, or stackable, or split one regulator into another. To keep engine and plate supplied.
AEI13217 - MODULAR FUEL PRESSU

Onto the kit itself...

You won't want to piece one of these together item by item. (Unless you are trying to do this off craigslist and ebay)
The kits will be much cheaper and complete.

Super Powershot Nitrous System NOS 05101NOS - Pace Performance Parts

Do you want a controller? Or just a micro switch?

Onto the unknown/tough love portion.

Converters w/o anti balloon plates dont like nitrous

Anything but forged pistons, dont like nitrous(hypers can be used with small amounts)

Stock trans....won't like nitrous.

Piston rings should have been gapped for nitrous.

Again the old wise crack is anything will take a 100 shot. But this looks like a very nice car, so lets cover all our bases before we go dropping transmissions and shredding converters.

Not trying to deter you, and maybe I should have led in with this. But just trying to provide options, and knowledge, at the same time.

Let me know

 

[Johnny Mac]

Also just noticed the ballast resistor and ecu box...you will be manually taking timing out of it with a distributor wrench with the OE setup. Opposed to a timing controller or retard switch. Unless you want to upgrade that too

 

[SLOPAR72]

All that was wrote is fine and dandy but if you are looking for more than a 75-100 hit you need to first and foremost learn how to read plugs and plan on a AFR if you want to not make a mess of things....

Reading your combo tells me Spray was not a consideration during the build. A little is OK with minimal changes but if you want bigger hits plan on backtracking your combo.

I am a huge fan of NOS. No different than adding headers. Power adder plain and simple. A little is easy and alot is somewhat involved to make it work in all applications....

JW

 

[zac_F71]

Ok guys sorry for the hiatus -

Rings were gapped for nitrous during assembly - I do not know the gaps though - was professionally built though and I trust him - said it should handle a 100hp shot fine if tuned properly - again will be professionally tuned on a chassis dyno

What about intake manifold? Will I need to swap to a single plane?

EFI comment- I am wanting to run 1 fuel pump in the system, I assumed I would need an electric pump capable of EFI pressure/flow to be able to feed both systems - I won't be able to run a Holley Blue or Black pump to feed both the systems? The Stealth pumps fit in a stock mopar tank? never knew that.. and not much more than an A1000 - I would like to avoid a sump, my car is stock height but just don't want to buy another brand new tank LOL even if they are cheap..

It is carb'd and staying that way.. has a Holley FPR now - I will be looking into a return style FPR from the same manufacture as the pump I ultimately get

Ignition will need an upgrade yes to pull timing, as it's at 20-21* base and 41* total, and don't want to deal with having to hook the timing light up a ton..

No Progressive controller, just a button and micro switch (WOT switch) is the plan
Will have a FP cut off as well

Motor has KB dome hypers - 11:1 static compression

Converter is a Hughes 3500 stall - no anti baloon plates or anything - just a basic non lock up.

My biggest fear is the trans being stock honestly

Let's say budget of budget builds? What about using the stock fuel system I have now that is proven for the motor and run a dedicated fuel system for the nitrous with a separate cell in the trunk?

But ya it is a nice car, a fresh build with 10 miles on it, and am planning 100hp shot no more than that... I'll build a new motor if I need more

I bought a used NX kit locally for $150 with a half full bottle.. LOL $150 was to good to pass up and am told it has 100hp jets in it - it's pretty rough and unsafe looking for my standards so I'll end up going through the system and probably replace everything LOL

What about track legal? Blow down tube? should I relocate the battery to the trunk? Purge kits is next, then figure out a safe track legal way to mount and run line..

I'm just going to piece together the nitrous kit, then a fuel system for it, and it's pointless to upgrade the brand new proven fuel system with out having a complete or close to complete nitrous setup ready in my opinion

Keep suggestions and advice coming please!

 

[Johnny Mac]

we need to pedal a bit here, as you have some very mindful ideas, mixed with some potentially disastrous ones. The nitrous learning curve is very steep. The reason you find these kits used on craigslist for $150 constantly, is everyone buys them up, and then usually scares themselves out of using it after reading how fast they can wind up in boom town.

here we go...

intake plane is irrelevant for what you're doing. keep what you have.

to sum up the fuel system briefly.I see alot of varying ideas kind of all over the place. trying to avoid the cost of an aeromotive pump but installing a completely secondary fuel system and mini fuel cell...bit unrealistic. i would never trust a black or blue to power the engine and a plate either . if you dont want a cell or a sump, you need to go with the in tank unit. Then we run that up to the engine bay with NEW lines, and we split it out of the regulator to the carb and plate.
2 complete systems is a bit unrealistic, and the efi comparison is erroneous. pumps are rated by psi and flow rate...and most are regulated down. you don't put an "efi" pump on a carbed vehicle just to gain flow. the aeromotive in tank can simply operate as either pending what regulator we use. its your best choice in my opinion.

the other safety equipment is obviously wise, but no techs are going to look for a blow tube on a street car.

your microswitch idea is fine. your FP kill switch needs to be wired into the nitrous system. as a killed fuel pump with nitrous still flowing =lean and holes in pistons

call hughes and ask them if they think the converter will live. thats all there is to it. i have blown up converters with no AB plates and 100 shots...hughes may tell you its ok, they may tell you its not recommended for ANY no2.

stock trans is probably going to live about a summer. everyone thinks of HP when they talk NO2, but what kills stock parts is the torque. NO2 is instant torque, and it comes on hard.

you are running alot of timing...but if this is a twice of summer kind of experiment, i'd probably just crank the timing down by hand. you'll have alot of money in a controller for something you want to mess with every once in a while.

$150 for a complete used system isn't bad assuming its complete. just test the solenoids and switches first...pressurize the hose to check for leaks. etc.

Thats all i got for ya this round.

 

[DrCharles]

One thing not mentioned yet... hypereutectic pistons are light and strong, but detonation is a killer. They can't take the abuse that forged pistons can.
Make sure your timing and A/F are conservative!