nitrous newbie questions.

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dusterbd13

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traded a mexican dinner for a nitrous kit last night. came off my friends camaro after he fragged the motor with it. plans to go on my 360 mopar. (forged pistons, i beam rods, cast crank, all ARP bolts, aluminum heads, victor jr single plane, 750 edelbrock, solid roller, 9.4:1 compression, MSD ignition with mopar distributor)

first up, id like to identify just what kit is sitting on my workbench. the plate has no markings other than NOS, Fuel, and N20. its 1/2 inch aluminum, dual brass tubes running down the center.
solenoids:
Fuel: Fuel Cheater no 16050
N20: N2O pro-shot no 16040

10 lb bottle

thats about all i got with the kit, not including some braded line between the solenoids and plate, and various brackets.

i know ill need a WOT switch, plumbing, and wiring to make it work. anything else?

now, on to the major questions.
1. i only want to run a 75-100 shot. really dont want to hit the car that hard. can i tune this system for that small of a shot?
2. how can i verify the components are working and working properly before i break something?
3. the braided lines between the solenoids and the plate are exactly the same length. how important is that? id like to mount both the solenoids behind the carb under my air cleaner for cleaner looks
4. my holley blue pump and regulator combo has another outletport that is currently not being used. can i use that to feed the fuel solenoid?
5. any good articles and websites that would help me get up to speed on this before i start to install, other than mounting the plate when i get done putting the choke back in my carb?

thanks for any help you can throw my way.

Michael
 
I always ran an extra fuel pump and line from tank to nitrous system. However you might be OK with your existing line if its big enough and using 100 or less shot of nitrous.

Can't remember the jet sizes but I'm sure there is a chart someplace

Retard timing a little seems like it was about 2 degrees for 100 HP nitrous shot

Colder plugs may be in order

Can't remember all the specifics but sounds like you have most of the main information.

Might find some help here

http://www.nitrousdirect.com/nitrous-instructions.html
 
With that big of solenoid I'm thinking you have a cheater plate, that will hve 64 spray holes in the spray bars IIRC, It's been a while but I don't think a cheater kit can be tuned for under 150hp maybe even 175hp, it's advertised range is like 150 or 175-250hp. Your solenoids MUST be wired with relays because of the draw they take and you should for sure get a purge kit. To make your kit work right you would be best with a secondary fuel system with something like a Holley red elec. pump and a regulator set at 7psi for starters. I reccomend you get a bottle heater cause if you aren't at a minimum of 950psi it's a waste of nitrous.

On the braided line I like the fuel to have to travel as short a distance as possible. Think of it like this the fuel is coming at 7psi, the nitrous at 950+psi.

If you would be interested I have a NOS powershot plate kit that I'd trade you, it's a factory preset 125hp kit and is more targeted at beginners. Not trying to take advantage of you just noticed that I wana spray more, you wana spray less, I have a small kit, you have a big kit. pm me if you wana.
 
moper said:
How old/used is this kit?
Click to expand...

It was on a nova for about 5yrs, sat for 6months then I got the plate and solenoids and got my own bottle, I tested the noids and everything works, hooked the n20 solenoid to a full bottle and it didn't leak any through. I have to get a new feed line though, ine got pinched and sprung a leak.
 
I'm not a fan of used systems. Even the small ones can have stupid issues that blow an engine. Generally, if it's over 2-3 years old and I don't know the fellow/car it was on, I dont want them. Is this a friend or what? I like Mexican, but it's not worth a cheater kit...lol.
 
The Cheater is fully adjustable down to 75 HP. The solenoids are rebuildable and I used to rebuild mine every season and had no issues what so ever. A bottle heater is not necessary, but is a nice luxury and you will make up the cost in lost nitrous when you recharge. Without the bottle heater you wont get use of all the nitrous in the bottle. I bought a complete jet kit from NOS. I also used a dedicated fuel line and pump so I can control the pressure which is critical to reliable nitrous performance. I commit to a pressure and then check that pressure before every run while the system is flowing through the same size jet that the plate has. I had a prefabbed whip made of braided hose and had a quick connect fitting to tap the fuel system and flow it. Used kits are tough for beginners, but if you do your homework it will work. Also I dynoed my car on a chassis dyno to get the tune up close. It goes quick and it costs a few hundred to dyno, the results are amazing. Initially I had the 150 shot on my car (.73 nitrous jet) and it made 90hp extra on the first pull. After a few jet and timing changes ( I think I made ten pulls over 3 hours) it made 196HP at the wheels with the same nitrous jet!
 
How does it work jetting giant Cheater solenoids down to a 75hp shot? It's advertised range is 150-250hp, I was told that trying to shoot puny amounts through big solenoids can get whacky.
 
the 16040 nos soleniod is for a direct port system, with the correct plate that set up can produce some impressive hp numbers. jetting them down is fine as the jet it the desiding factor on how much gas or nos gets to the motor. the large soleniods are for the large flow requirments of large jetting, so smaller jets just flow less, no big deal. the more holes in the spary bars the more hp it will make per given jet size.
 
Also, if the fuel jet is larger than the n2o jet, it's a fat tune up on a stock plate set up. The tunes they give you in the kit instructions are usually all fat.

Find a fuel pressure that is recommended or known to work, like 5-6 psi, tune it for that fuel pressure. If the pressure goes up or down the tune will change. More pressure makes it fatter, less leaner.

Stay away from overly fat tune ups.

Be careful in your prep, learn to read plugs really well and you will be OK.
 
crackedback said:
Also, if the fuel jet is larger than the n2o jet, it's a fat tune up on a stock plate set up. The tunes they give you in the kit instructions are usually all fat.

Find a fuel pressure that is recommended or known to work, like 5-6 psi, tune it for that fuel pressure. If the pressure goes up or down the tune will change. More pressure makes it fatter, less leaner.

Stay away from overly fat tune ups.

Be careful in your prep, learn to read plugs really well and you will be OK.
Click to expand...

Exactly. Mike Thermos (he was the founder of NOS, and running the company at that time) once told me that all the NOS setups are jetted for 4 psi. Most people use whatever psi they run at the carb to the fuel solenoid which is usually 6 psi.
 
turbodart68 said:
Most people use whatever psi they run at the carb to the fuel solenoid which is usually 6 psi.
Click to expand...

Had a friend do that on his car. Was running the already fat box tune up and pounding it with 7.5 psi instead of the recommended 5, IIRC. His comment, "why is this thing so rich?" No kidding.

Remember when NOS was over in Signal Hill.
 
At some point they bought a building about a half mile from my house. When I first playing with nitrous my car would pump black smoke like a diesel truck! Once I figured out the tune it went so much faster!
 
i have played with my share of nitrous kits. and unless you plan on rebuilding everything i would just get a new kit. i dont trust a used noid. last thing you want is a fuel noid to stick closed or a nitrous noid to stay open. and a used kit, there is no real way to know what will happen. (allthough new parts can fail too) http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/index.asp had a great forum at one time. you need to sit down and read, and when you have read everything you can find. go find more, or reread what you already read. nitrous is a safe power maker, but you have to use it correctly.
 
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