No fuel at pump inlet

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Shunyun

Shunyun

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I don't have fuel at my pump inlet. I wasn't getting fuel at the filter so I traced back, eventually feeding the pump directly from a hose to a gas can, which pumps gas to the carb. This is still the tank of gas it had when I got the car, so I'm not sure how old the gas is but it doesn't smell fresh. This is a 65 Dart GT. is there another filter or something between the pump and the tank? Is it possible some portion of the gas turned to varhnish and has clogged the line? If so, how should I go about emptying and cleaning the tank?
 
I have restored a few cars that have sat out. I have not found the fuel lines to be plugged by varnish, but it is possible. What I do is disconnect at the pump, and squirt in carb cleaner, then apply about 30 psi of air pressure, and with a clean rag check what comes out the tank end. Mud daubers are a big problem here, and will block open hoses and vents in a short time. The mud plug and egg is in the first inch of open line and can be removed with a small screwdriver.

The tank can be removed, the sender bung opened to drain fuel and clean. Best to have a lift to safely do the work. Old fuel can be burned in small quantities at a time in a open metal pan with a small rag used as a wick. I do it safely on a large gravel driveway in the country. It burns with much black smoke (carbon). Here it is an acceptable way. You need to check local laws.
 
KitCarlson said:
I have restored a few cars that have sat out. I have not found the fuel lines to be plugged by varnish, but it is possible. What I do is disconnect at the pump, and squirt in carb cleaner, then apply about 30 psi of air pressure, and with a clean rag check what comes out the tank end. Mud daubers are a big problem here, and will block open hoses and vents in a short time. The mud plug and egg is in the first inch of open line and can be removed with a small screwdriver.

The tank can be removed, the sender bung opened to drain fuel and clean. Best to have a lift to safely do the work. Old fuel can be burned in small quantities at a time in a open metal pan with a small rag used as a wick. I do it safely on a large gravel driveway in the country. It burns with much black smoke (carbon). Here it is an acceptable way. You need to check local laws.
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Thanks, I'll check that out.
 
Make sure that the hose between the tank and body line is not cracked. Sometimes a weak fuel pump has trouble pulling fuel that far. What I do in those cases is take a rag and air hose and put some air pressure in the tank. A quick crack of the blower nozzle and fuel can start flowing, If it comes out in front of the tank, the hose is bad.
 
The sock filter on the pick up inside the tank can get plugged as well. I agree with KitCarlson and would clean out the tank just to be sure and know that it's all clean inside.
 
You should be able to blow back thru the supply hose and feel it bubbling in the tank. That might also clear any blockage on the intake screen. To re-prime the line (maybe not needed), best not to suck with your mouth. I use a Mighty Mite hand vacuum pump w/ a bottle (brake bled kit), but insure no gas gets to the pump. You might also connect it to manifold vacuum on another running car to suck. Either way have a section of clear tubing to stop when you see gas. Mandatory if you suck with your mouth, and if you get any in your mouth, spit it out immediately and keep spitting. Swallowing gas can make you suffocate on the fumes.
 
BillGrissom said:
You should be able to blow back thru the supply hose and feel it bubbling in the tank. That might also clear any blockage on the intake screen.
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That can work but you should be careful; you can blow the sock filter completely off the pick up tube especially if it's plugged. If it was me with a car I just purchased with the old fuel and the symptoms you describe, I'd want a look at the sending unit and I'd pull the tank and clean it out for good measure. I like to be sure.
 
The very first thing I always do when I get an old car is pull the tank empty it out and inspect it. If it has any rust inside at all, it gets replaced. That's the fuel source and also the source of any fuel system trouble. You'll have an exercise in futility unless you make sure the tank is clean clean clean. The lines are as old as the tank so they should be suspect too. It's not like a new tank and lines will break the bank, but the benefits far outweigh the cost.
 
RustyRatRod said:
The very first thing I always do when I get an old car is pull the tank empty it out and inspect it. If it has any rust inside at all, it gets replaced. That's the fuel source and also the source of any fuel system trouble. You'll have an exercise in futility unless you make sure the tank is clean clean clean. The lines are as old as the tank so they should be suspect too. It's not like a new tank and lines will break the bank, but the benefits far outweigh the cost.
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I've never pulled a tank... Are there any articles online to give guidance? Is this something I can do alone or do I need another set of hands? If I do find rust, I'd prefer to just buy a new tank; any recommendations for vendor (I'm in San Diego, CA)?
 
The tank is held in by strap(s) that go underneath the tank and attached via a J bolt through a frame member.

General procedure:

Siphon out as much fuel as possible from the tank and dispose of safely. Disconnect the rubber fuel line (and fuel gauge sending unit wire) from the tank, located on the tank above the middle of the rear axle. Electric connection is a push on type, a few twists back and forth and some pulling and it comes off. Save the grounding strap and remove it before taking the rubber line loose, it comes off with a simple pair of pliers, be gentle, these can be fragile. Remove three sheet metal screws from under the filler cap on the rear fender. Open the trunk and remove 5 or so sheet metal screws from the trunk floor grommet, slip it up on the filler tube. Spray a little penetrating oil on the tank grommet. Pull the filler tube out from the side of the car. support the tank with a floor jack and a large piece of plywood or similar. Find the end of the tank strap with the bolt on it. Spray some penetrating oil on the bolt threads, and remove the nut. If you car has two straps remove both. The other end of the strap is hooked into the frame, turn it so it can be removed. drop the tank down and inspect, clean fix as needed. New tanks are available all day on ebay, or at least they used to be a few years ago. Good luck.
 
The tank is real light once you get most of the fuel out. You are lucky. New tanks are $120, compared with $350 for my C-body. The inlet tube grommet is $15. A new sender w/ 3/8" tube is $45. I got one with a 1/4" emissions tube that I can use for return (EFI). Check rockauto and ebay. I bet yours is fine, being in San Diego. My 65 Dart was a bit rusty (Tahoe car?) but the tank was perfect inside, w/ no visible rust. Let sunlight shine in one hole and you can see the insides well from the other hole. I just wire-brushed rust from the outside edges and painted the outside.
 
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